Plan your trip
GETTING THERE
Northwestern Botswana can be accessed via Gaborone and Ghanzi on the Trans-Kalahari highway (A2 and A3) or from Maun. Take the A35 to Shakawe from the turn-off at Sehithwa. Cross via the Mohembo border post into Namibia and straight into Bwabwata National Park. Cross the Kavango River at Divundu to get onto the regional highway (B8). Ngoma border post takes you back into Botswana and Chobe Park.
NEED TO KNOW
The road between Ghanzi and Shakawe was in bad condition; consider coming from northern Namibia into the Zambezi Region or from Kasane in the east. Border crossings were quick and painless; a vehicle permit is R200 into Namibia and R238 into Botswana (keep it as you may be asked for it when you exit). We drove two Land Cruisers and a Subaru Forester (which kept up and never got bogged down). Driving in Nkasa Rupara National Park in the rainy season (December to May) is not possible.
STAY HERE
Shakawe River Lodge in Botswana offers water views, birdlife, fishing and day trips. There’s a restaurant and bar, and accommodation ranges from chalets to mud huts to a spacious campsite on the river bank. It has good shade, well-lit paths and a neat ablution block with hot water. Each site has a plug point, potable water and a braai/kitchen area. Camping is R273 pp, huts R615, rooms from R546 pp sharing. +267684-0403, shakawelodge.com
Rupara RestCamp, just outside Nkasa Rupara National Park in Namibia, is run by Wildest Logistics. It has four self-catering chalets and eight campsites – these have a view of the wetlands, good shade, potable water and neat ablution blocks with a laundry sink and solar lights. Camping costs R190 pp, chalets R470 pp sharing. +264-81-147-7798, rupara.com. (Nkasa Lupala tented lodge, run by the same company, is 3km away. nkasalupalalodge.com)
Ihaha Camp is on the Chobe River in the northern flood 0plains section of Chobe Park (reached via a fairly soft sand road). There are 10 sites, with potable water and a braai/ kitchen structure, but the ablution block was unserviced, with no lights or hot water. Camping R235 pp. +267-6861448, kwalatesafaris.com
Chobe River Camp is on the opposite side of the river, in Namibia, 4km from the Ngoma border. Camping is R195 pp, or there are tented chalets from R1 119 pp sharing B&B. Boat cruises from R350 pp. +264-66250-614, gondwana-collection.com
DO THIS
Cruise the Kavango River.
A guided river safari at Shakawe Lodge costs R490 per hour for boat hire plus R10 per litre of fuel. There is a fleet of five boats, also used for fishing trips. Take game drives in three reserves. Animals and birdlife were prolific. Sightings came thick and fast. We opted for self-drive but local operators offer guided safaris. Entry to Bwabwata and Nkasa Rupara is R40 pp, R10 per car; for Chobe it’s R165 pp, R68 per car.
Visit Livingstone Linyanti Museum in Sangwali. It contains maps, memorabilia, journals and photographs, but the key attraction is the curator, Linus Mukwata, a born storyteller. There is no entry fee; donations appreciated. +264-81-397-2185, linusmukwata@gmail.com.
See swimming elephants. Head to Kasane and hop on a river boat to see herds along the banks of the Chobe River and crossing to the islands. Around R730 pp ($50) for three hours. There are several operators to choose from.