Plan your trip

Getting there

drive your own vehicle to ruacana in northern namibia, or fly to Windhoek and hire a 4x4 (note that most companies won’t rent vehicles if you’re driving van Zyl’s pass).

need to know

while some previous 4x4 experience is recommended, some of us didn’t have any and still managed – the guides are that good. The terrain requires a rugged, high-clearance 4x4 with diff lock and suitable tyres. your host will advise you of what recovery equipment is needed but essentials are a spade, tyre-pressure gauge, high-lift jack – and ensure your 4x4 has tow points front and rear. You also need to take your own camping gear, drinks and lunches for 10 days. Medical insurance is essential.

THE TOUR

it starts at Kunene River Lodge (fuel up at ruacana for the 1 000km drive to Palmwag Lodge, as finding fuel is hitand-miss) and ends at Brandberg. We drove about 100km a day, and had a fairly chilled routine – breakfast at about 8am, leave by 9am and a stop for lunch on the road. We’d usually reach camp before 4pm. The next tour this year is on 5–15 September.

the cost

The 10-day Seven rivers Tour costs R15 300 pp. This includes concession and camping fees, levies, trained guides, use of twoway radios, breakfasts and dinners, and camping facilities (a chemical toilet and shower – you need to supply your own water for it, though). 021-863-6400,

do this

See Epupa Falls at sunrise. There is no entry fee and it’s a short walk from the campsite. Drink a cold beer in the middle of nowhere. Rands are accepted in Namibia to buy drinks at orupembe shop 1 on day five (R17 a beer). Pack a bird book and binoculars. Among many others, I ticked off: monteiro’s hornbill, Temminck’s courser, Rüppell’s parrot and Rüppell’s korhaan. Binos are also handy when looking for desert lions in riverine scrub!

Visit Twyfelfontein. This World Heritage site with its ancient rock art is an optional outing but the short (can be very hot), guided walk is worth it. Entry is R80 pp.