THE OUTDOORS
There’s a mountain, there’s sea, parks, roads and rambles. And you don’t need to be super-fit to suck in the city’s salt-laden air
THE SAFETY OF CAPE POINT
Cape Town is blessed with world-class walks, and cursed with out-of-control crime, which makes hiking dangerous across the Peninsula. One area you’re safe is the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve at Cape Point, where myriad beautiful walks range from the one-hour Lighthouse Keeper’s Trail to the three-hour Kanonkop Trail – with views over False Bay. Most popular are the Shipwreck Trails from Olifantsbos parking area to the remains of the Thomas T Tucker (1942) and other maritime victims.
Mention an overnight hike at Cape Point to Capetonians and they’ll look at you with an incredulous ‘you can do that?’ expression. But you can, we’ve done it and it’s spectacular. The two-day Cape of Good Hope Trail follows a 34-kilometre circular route covering beaches, mountains and fynbos vlaktes
with a night in a hiking hut. From R336 pp. sanparks.org
En route to Cape Point on the M65, you’ll pass the entrance to Baskloof Private Fynbos Nature Reserve above Misty Cliffs, near Scarborough. Day hikers are welcome, entry R20 pp. baskloof.co.za
SECRET SUNRISE
Start your day with mindfulness and movement in beautiful places – on beaches, on rooftops, in parks … there’s even been a session on Table Mountain and dancing the sun up on a yacht out of the V&A Waterfront. Secret Sunrise is a global movement operating in 16 cities, as well as our own Mother. Headsets are provided and qualified facilitators guide participants – of every age, gender, vocation, body size, fitness and mindset through songs, dance, fun, playfulness and meditation. From R100 a session. secretsunrise.com
THE FOUR WRECKS WALK
Sandy Bay’s famous ‘nudey’ beach needs little introduction. But the roughly hour-long Oudeschip Hike from this stunning beach remains ‘hidden’ – previously quite literally by milkwood and other scrub. Since recent fires, it’s a sea-view ramble to Oudeschip Peninsula (a wade-able ‘island’ at high tide) and the wreck of the Harvest Capella
trawler (1986). Across the bay languishes the Boss
400, a French crane barge (1994), and submerged below her is the Oakburn,
a British cargo steamer (1906). Deeper in the bay is the Maori, which sank in 1919, losing 32 lives. Both wrecks are popular dive sites. From Oudeschip you can head up the steep path to the ‘rocket’ hut – built in 1913 to store rescue equipment for future calamities – then back along Karbonkelberg, and a dip (cossie optional) at Sandy Bay.
Another shipwreck hike is to the Kakapo,
southwards on Noordhoek Beach.
Both hikes are dog friendly – boerbuls and Rottweilers are best (and don’t any take valuables).
FIND YOUR TRAILRUNNING TRIBE
Trail runners – and cyclists, mountain bikers, hikers, triathletes – gather at The Vine, a newish eat (restaurant and coffee shop), meet, stop, shop for active people in Hout Bay. Innes Smith and his guides lead trail runs – from beginner to elite – around the Chappies area and Table Mountain several times a week with varied paces and distances for all – so there’s safety in numbers. And they’ve just launched running holidays, day trips and guided tours. Find gear and view the runs for the week ahead at thevineonline.co.za.
HIDE IN A CAVE
The Chapman’s Peak road is probably Cape Town’s most driven attraction. But leave the tourists grinning at their selfie sticks at the main viewpoint and follow a narrow path leading you over the cliff (seemingly). To the left you’ll find a shallow sandstone cave – dramatic doesn’t begin to describe the view – of whales blowing, dolphins cavorting, fishing trawlers and Sentinel mountain. Private picnic brekkie or sundowner, anyone?
BRAAI LEKKA
No pain, no gain as they say, so ditch the convenience of your backyard and head to Silvermine Nature Reserve (or Buffels or Oudekraal – see beaches, page 78) on windless weekends for a braai (fires only permitted in winter months) or picnic around the reservoir after a hike or mountain-bike ride in the reserve. It’s also a ‘secret’ spot for long-distance swimming training. Dog friendly (with activity card); the reserve entry is
R32 adults, R16 children. sanparks.org
SLEEP ON THE MOUNTAIN
Several tented camps were built for the now-defunct Hoerikwaggo hiking trail traversing the spine of Table Mountain National Park. Some of the camps remain open, though, and regulars do their best to keep them under wraps. (Sadly, the Orange Kloof Camp is currently closed due to repeated crime.) Smitswinkel Tented Camp is opposite the entrance to the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, from R445 pp. Slangkop Tented Camp is set in the milkwood forests in Kommetjie just a stumble to the sea, from R395 pp. On the Table top is the Overseers Cottage, an old stone dwelling with a big fireplace that sleeps 16. You’ll need to walk there (at least from the cableway). From R2280 for the first six. Get discounts from May to July. sanparks.org
OUTDOOR COFFEE
Atlantic Seaboard commuters know him as Mark the Coffee Man at his Detour Espresso Bar in Bakoven. By his own admission he’s fluent in sarcasm and you can’t beat his traditional, Italian-style coffee – or his setting. It’s the place to start your day even if you don’t drink coffee! Plus, on weekend mornings, Constantia Nek is a bustle of hiking, family-strolling, dog-walking, mountain-biking activity (link through the forest trails and Kirstenbosch to the Table Mountain routes). Here, the friendly guys and girls of Black Box Coffeeworks will have your roasted brew and a snack waiting for you – ordered and paid on the mobile app. Find them at the circle, and details on Facebook.