MY NAME IS OUBAAS

NAMAQUA WEST COAST (DORINGBAAI) Fish the West Coast ‘Camargue’

ʻThis is the dorpie I grew up inʼ, explained Oubaas ʻJohannes Denzelʼ Gertse as he rowed his tiny wooden ʻbakkieʼ boat onto the windswept Olifants River estuary, nodding obliquely in the direction of the village sprawling along the riverbank.

There are 50, maybe 60, houses in Papendorp, dotting the Strandveld shoreline, and most of those who live there are subsistence fishermen. ʻItʼs a hard life, but it is a satisfying lifeʼ,he says in Afrikaans, wistfully patting Blackie and Whitey, his two dogs perching on the gunnel beside him.

Oubaas supplements his income by ferrying visitors onto the expansive Ramsar site at the mouth of the Olifants River. They can either fish off his boat, watch the profusion of aquatic birds or sit back and tune into his storytelling.

Pelicans, flamingos, spoonbills and ibis abound but post-pandemic tourists are few. Itʼs a place of unbounded tranquillity and understated natural beauty; if you would, imagine the Camargue marshes in the south of France, but without having to shell out ¤10 for an overrated café latte.

The people here are quirky as anything and life is lived simplistically and close to the earth. Papendorp lies just off the R326, between Lutzville and Doringbaai.

DO IT

Oubaas is a subsistence fisherman, part-time tour guide and terrific storyteller. Fishing bakkie outings are R200 per person (maximum of 2) and take 1.5 hours; get hold of this local legend via the tourism team at namaquawestcoast.com.

STAY HERE

Thorn Bay Self-catering, from R850 a unit for two. 027 215 1333