Getaway (South Africa)

Are You for Scuba?

A group of women take the plunge into the world of underwater fun in Sodwana

- Words & photos Melanie van Zyl

WOMXN FOR WILD RALLIES A GROUP OF WOMEN WHO WANT TO TAKE THEIR NEW-FOUND SCUBA DIVING SKILLS FROM THE CONFINES OF THE SWIMMING POOL TO THE VAST INDIAN OCEAN

‘Itʼs like learning to live on another planet,ʼ Carmen van der Westhuizen said with some incredulit­y. It was our second day in Sodwana Bay and I was sitting on the stoep of our log cabin at Coral Divers resort in blissful February sunshine, talking with my good friend and business partner. Contemplat­ing what it takes to explore the ocean after her first swimming pool session on the PADI Open Water Diver scuba course, Carmen continued: ʻYou have to learn everything all over again. How to breathe, how to see, how to walk, how to survive.ʼ She mused while sorting out her plastic crate of sopping-wet scuba kit. She had a valid point, but it is a little ironic.

The ocean is our planet. Us landlubber­s inhabit just 30 percent of Earth, but our globe is covered primarily by saltwater. Of that, roughly 20 percent of it is visible to us at the surface. The other 80 percent lies somewhat ominously below the waves.

I was lucky. My partner has been scuba diving and holidaying in KwaZulu-Natalʼs Sodwana Bay since he was a laaitjie, and his family returns almost every December. It didnʼt take long for me to want to peer under the curly curtains, too. Four months after we started dating, I dropped down on my first scuba dive with Coral Divers resort and I have never looked back (or should that be up?).

Carmen has always wanted to plunge below, but couldnʼt find the right outdoorsy friends keen enough to tackle the course with her. Itʼs one of the reasons she dreamed about a platform like Womxn for Wild. We started an experience business that builds ways for eco-conscious women to immerse themselves in Africaʼs wilds without fear or prejudice. Carmen and I aim to be those infallible adventure buddies.

STEP ONE? COOK UP THE TRIP

Carmen wanted to learn, so surely other women would too? Plus, I was more than happy for an excuse to dive the days away while everyone worked through the five-day PADI Open Water Diver course.

STEP TWO? PRIORITISE SAFETY

We chose Coral Divers resort for a host of reasons. The biggest advantage? Itʼs one of the only dive schools inside the iSimangali­so Wetland Park, so there's no gate admin when getting onto the beach in Sodwana Bay – and thereʼs freedom to roam around the resort and surroundin­g coastal forests.

STEP THREE? LEARN TO DIVE, DUH

Coral (as itʼs affectiona­tely nicknamed) is also a pretty and profession­al stay. The establishe­d centre ranks as a PADI five-star Instructor Developmen­t Centre and Gold Palm resort. Thereʼs a choice of cute cabins, basic tents (with proper beds, though) and well-kept communal ablutions, plus a free shuttle available on the hour to take you (and your very wet wetsuit) to the beach and back for dives. Last but not least, itʼs got an acclaimed learn-to-dive programme with female dive instructor­s. Our in-depth research told us the beers here are cold, too...

STEP FOUR? MYTHBUSTIN­G

If you ever thought scuba diving was sexy, squeezing into a tight wetsuit will quickly dispel that notion. Likewise, learning to breathe underwater can be taxing. The PADI Open Water Scuba Diver course consists of three segments: confined water dives, knowledge developmen­t and open water dives. This means time in the classroom listening to American voices drone on for a bit, learning how to kit up and submerge in the swimming pool to practise those essential underwater skills, then prove you can do it all again under the big blue. Our all-women group must then do a multiple-choice quiz and obtain 75 percent or more to pass.

STEP FIVE? ASSEMBLE A CREW

The party numbered just six. A motley squad from all over South Africa – one from Plettenber­g Bay, another from Cape Town, two from Johannesbu­rg and two from the windy city, Gqeberha, but all eager to inspect the Indian Ocean, perhaps naively so.

The PADI Open Water Scuba Diver certificat­ion allows you to dive down to a maximum depth of 18 metres. There are particular techniques you have to master to complete this training. These include learning to assemble your underwater air jacket (or buoyancy control device) and breathing apparatus (or regulator) to your oxygen tank, not calling your mask goggles and fins flippers, and practising emergency procedures.

Essentiall­y, this course takes you through every worst-case scenario. What to do if your oxygen tank cuts off? What to do when you find yourself lost

‘Even if you never have the chance to see or touch the ocean, THE OCEAN TOUCHES YOU

WITH EVERY BREATH you take, every drop of water you drink, every bite you consume. Everyone, everywhere is inextricab­ly connected to and utterly DEPENDENT UPON THE EXISTENCE OF THE SEA.’

– Sylvia Earle, marine biologist

 ??  ?? Foamy waves break onto the shores of Sodwana Bay. These are vital nesting grounds for two species of turtles. Set off to find them under the water after getting scuba diving certified.
Foamy waves break onto the shores of Sodwana Bay. These are vital nesting grounds for two species of turtles. Set off to find them under the water after getting scuba diving certified.
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 ??  ?? ABOVE Coral Divers Resort is ideally geared to teaching scuba diving with classrooms and self-catering facilities. The PADI 5 Star Resort and Dive Centre has been family-run and owned for over 25 years.
ABOVE Coral Divers Resort is ideally geared to teaching scuba diving with classrooms and self-catering facilities. The PADI 5 Star Resort and Dive Centre has been family-run and owned for over 25 years.
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 ??  ?? Most Open Water dives in Sodwana Bay occur along the sites at Two Mile Reef. The reef begins just outside the main bay and stretches almost 2km northwards, running parallel to the coast. The name comes from the distance you’ll travel from shore to reach the dive sites.
Most Open Water dives in Sodwana Bay occur along the sites at Two Mile Reef. The reef begins just outside the main bay and stretches almost 2km northwards, running parallel to the coast. The name comes from the distance you’ll travel from shore to reach the dive sites.
 ??  ?? An aerial view from Mseni Beach looking north towards Mozambique. Can you see the lighthouse?
An aerial view from Mseni Beach looking north towards Mozambique. Can you see the lighthouse?

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