Pan-african fashion
featuring Kahindo Mateene
Featuring Kahindo Mateene
After studying at the Illinois Institute of Art in Chicago, Congolese fashion designer Kahindo Mateene has since appeared on Project Runway US, featured in British Vogue and showcased her label, Kahindo, at AFI Joburg Fashion Week in October. Here, she talks her latest collection, inspiration and the future of African fashion.
When did you realise you wanted to become a fashion designer? I’ve loved fashion since I was a young girl, looking through fashion catalogues and playing with paper dolls. However, I didn’t know that I wanted to be a fashion designer until I decided to quit my corporate job at 22 to return to school and pursue another Bachelor’s degree – this time in fashion design. What challenges have you faced on your journey to becoming successful? I’ve been a one-woman show, so the biggest challenges have been resources, time and money. Who and what inspires your designs? I’m constantly inspired by my Congolese heritage and African upbringing, having grown up in several different countries, as well as my travels and surroundings. What is the thought process behind your designs? I always have the Kahindo woman in mind when I design something new, and I make sure to include several key components that she looks for in a designer garment: statement pieces, vibrant colours, bold prints and really refined silhouettes with interesting details. What was your intention behind your latest collection? The new Kahindo spring/ summer ’19 collection was inspired by the brightly coloured homes of Burano island in Venice, Italy, and Cape Town’s Bo-kaap, where I travelled to early this year. What makes this collection so different to all your past collections? I designed a custom print for the new collection and printed it on 100% silk. I also introduced menswear to my label for the very first time. What new trends did you introduce? Lace, lightweight fabrics, and structured cuts and shapes. Which African designers do you admire most? Mafi from Ethiopia, Andrea Iyamah from Nigeria and Tongoro Studio by Sarah Diouf of Senegal. What challenges do you think up-and-coming African designers will face today? Having a lasting impact and position in the international fashion scene. Last year, British designer Stella Mccartney was accused of cultural appropriation when she used Ankara prints for her spring/summer ’18 collection without acknowledging its origins, and only including one model of colour in her show. What is your opinion on international designers who use African prints for their designs? I think one must always acknowledge the influences that inspire them, as it’s a way of educating the world on all things about the African continent. What are some of the highlights of your career? I started my brand in 2009, so next year will be our 10-year anniversary – that’s something I’m very proud of. Plus, getting selected to compete in season 12 of US Project Runway and showcasing at a number of fashion weeks around the world. Next up is building distribution and stockists to carry the Kahindo label, and expanding on the menswear range to create a sustainable and profitable business. What is the future of African fashion? The future is bright and has no boundaries. We have the talent, creativity and a view that the world needs to see. We have a growing market which we can build and grow a sustainable fashion industry that competes on a global scale. I think we need to pull our resources, consolidate all fashion weeks and have a streamlined fashion calendar for the African fashion industry in order to really grow and make an impact. December/january is our ‘Celebration Issue’. Can you name five things you believe should be celebrated? Culture, authenticity, love, family and individuality.