Peel good Inside the world of Cosmelan skin peel treatments

Being in the industry for over 13 years, Lourette du Toit, practice manager at Dermology Aesthetic Laser and Skin Clinic, shares her insight on the world of Cosmelan skin-peel treatments.

THE ORIGIN OF COSMELAN

Originally from Spain, Cosmelan is the world’s leading professional depigmenting procedure that corrects and regulates hyperpigmentation. This procedure delivers short-term and long-term results, even when treating melasma.

The at-home products contain the same ingredients (such as kojic, phytic, azelaic and ascorbic acids, arbutin, and titanium dioxide) as the peel applied to your skin in the practice, just not as strong, which makes it safe for long-term use. It’s a very effective depigmentation method for all skin types and can be used on multiple areas of the body and face.

THE CAUSE AND WHAT IT MEANS TO WOMEN OF COLOUR

There are many different types of hyperpigmentation, and they’re all caused by different or a combination of internal or external factors. Melanocytes are the cells deep in our epidermis that produce melanin, which is responsible for our skin colour and protects us against UV light. However, the melanocyte doesn’t always function as expected. Sometimes, an overproduction of melanin can be seen on the skin in the form of freckles, sun damage and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). As melanin production is regulated by a specific hormone in

your pituitary gland, it can also get affected when the hormone levels go through changes like pregnancy and breastfeeding. This will cause an overproduction of melanin and the very familiar brown/grey patches visible on the skin, known as melasma.

Keep in mind that our bodies use melanin as a natural defence mechanism. When we’re in the sun, we go darker (tan). But, this is our melanocytes producing more melanin to protect the skin against the harmful UV rays.

VARIOUS FORMS OF HYPERPIGMENTATION

• Age Spots Also known as liver spots,

which are caused by sun exposure. • PIH Post-acne scarring. This is a typical example of the skin trying to protect itself, but the result of this are dark spots formed in the areas where the pimples were. This also relates to any injury on the skin. • Freckles They can become darker when exposed to the sun. It’s important to note that if you’re prone to getting freckles, they’ll never go away completely. However, you can still treat and maintain the results. • Sun damage In the past, many people lathered themselves in baby oil before spendinghoursinthesun.Theevidence of this is clearly visible on their face, neck, chest, arms, legs and back.

• Melasma This is the most difficult to treat. Most of the time, this is hormonal related, but it can also be caused by medication, sun damage and even genetics. Melasma is very common in women, especially those with darker skin types. It shows up during pregnancy or breastfeeding, living up to its nickname ‘mask of pregnancy’, and can fade with time.

RECOMMENDED AGE

The ideal candidate for a Cosmelan depigmentation peel isn’t directly age related (you wouldn’t do this peel on a young teenager who is still going through hormonal changes), but it’s more concern related. The treatment is best recommended for stubborn pigmentation/melasma, but it’s also excellent for any person of any skin type looking for a rejuvenated, fresher and even complexion. We see those concerns mostly in women but in men, as well, from ages 25 and up.

WHAT TO EXPECT

You’ll go through an assessment process to determine the best procedure for your skin type and concern first. A thick, pumpkintoned solution is applied to your skin, which you leave on for the next eight to 12 hours, depending on your skin type and condition. Because of this timeline, it’s advised to book your appointment in the morning, so that the patient doesn’t have to go sleep with the mask on their face.

The full Cosmelan Peel procedure will cost R10 410, and it includes the Mesoestetic Cosmelan 2, Melan Recovery and Pigment Control SPF to use at home.

SIDE EFFECTS

Everybody heals differently, but usually a week of peeling, red, itchy, tight and swollen skin will occur. These will subside as the week progresses, so by the end of the week, expect fresh and rejuvenated skin. People prone to fever blisters may also get one during the peeling process, too. However, this would have been established during your consultation, and your doctor would have prescribed an anti-viral. Scarring can happen where posttreatment protocol wasn’t followed, such as picking off peeling skin.

For more info, visit dermology.co.za or call 011 883 1031.