Pan-African fashion

Modelling attracts young people in their droves because it’s glamorous, but few of them are actually successful. Just like any other career, Mala Bryan says, it requires extensive research, dedication and hard work.

Featuring Mala Bryan

f ashion model, entrepreneur and creator of Malaville dolls Mala Bryan is a regular feature on runways in South Africa and the rest of the world. Here, she shares her journey into modelling and tips on how to stay in the game.

Glamour: Tell us about how your modelling career started.

mala bryan: I was discovered at a casting in a store on the Caribbean island of Saint Martin, and selected to travel to Paris to compete for a modelling contract, which I won. I chose to begin my modelling career in Miami because it was close to home.

Glamour: What d’you wish you’d known at the beginning of your modelling career?

mb: I honestly wish I’d known about all the costs involved in starting a modelling career. Before I got my first job, I’d already invested about R375 000 during the first three months alone, to cover airline tickets, accommodation and advances for pocket money. Building my portfolio was even more expensive because it involved booking and paying for a photographer, hair stylist, makeup artist and a stylist. Then there were comp cards, Z-Cards and other fees that added up quickly.

Glamour: your career highlights so far?

mb: Doing campaigns for Ray-Ban, Gottex swimwear, and shooting lots of magazine editorials around the world for the likes of Vogue, Elle,

Cosmopolitan and Marie Claire

magazines. Living in South Africa, and walking the runway for some of the country’s top designers at Fashion Week over the past 12 years has also been an honour.

Glamour: What’s the toughest thing about being a model?

mb: Having to handle rejection often. Sometimes clients tell you no straight to your face, and other times you’ll be optioned for a job, only to be released at the last minute. Honestly, it can be heartbreaking. Being a model means taking care of your body and your look – do you.

Glamour: Have you ever doubted yourself? and how do you take care of your mind and body?

mb: I’ve been in the modelling business for 17 years, and I’m happy to say that I’ve been able to find a balance that works for me. I had a moment of weakness when I lived in New York. I would eat very little to be a certain size, but I realised it didn’t make me happy, so I had a chat with my agent and relocated back to Miami, where there was less pressure. I read a lot. I love self-help books, and I pick and choose what works for me and apply it to my lifestyle. I also love fasting because it helps me strengthen my mind and listen to my what my body needs. I eat everything but in moderation.

Glamour: you’re also a successful entrepreneur and businesswoman. How important is supplementing your income as a full-time model?

mb: The thing about being a model is that you’re not guaranteed a monthly income. That was a real adjustment for me because I went from receiving a regular salary to being paid for my first modelling job nine months after I’d finished it. I used the free time I had in between jobs to create a business, which allowed me to reconnect with my love of dolls.

Glamour: When you’re looking for a modelling agent, what questions should you ask?

mb: These are important things to look out for:

• An agency shouldn’t ask you to pay a joining fee when they sign you.

• Once an agency shows an interest in you, find out the percentage they’ll take from your earnings to represent you. • Ask yourself: what’s the most inexpensive way to build my portfolio? Photographers who’re building their portfolios might be willing to shoot you for free.

Glamour: How d’you stay in shape?

mb: In all honesty, I’ve been blessed with great genes. Having said that, paying attention to what I eat helps. I’m a former athlete and, for now, my muscle memory is working to my advantage. I’ve had a few stints at the gym, but because I travel often, I find it hard to stick to a proper workout routine.

Glamour: In your experience, how has the modelling industry evolved

over the years when it comes to representation and inclusiveness?

mb: I’m happy I got to experience the film era before everything went digital. When I started, the industry was difficult for models of colour like me – there’d be that one who’d get all the work. Luckily, I’ve had my ‘it girl’ moments. Brands are becoming more inclusive; however, I still feel we have a long way to go before everyone’s fully accepted. Nowadays, people are calling out brands on social media for showing a lack of diversity, and everything is pretty much out in the open. Unfortunately, some brands are using the idea of inclusivity as a marketing strategy. I hope that one day, things will change and that we’ll all be represented because it matters.