Glamour (South Africa)

ALTERNATIV­E BEAUTY

Many women choose tattoos, piercings and other unconventi­onal body modificati­ons to express themselves. Here’s why.

- Words by shannon manuel

body modificati­on is hardly a new phenomenon. Almost every human culture has engaged in the deliberate alteration of the physical form, whether for aesthetic, cultural, sexual or spiritual reasons.

I was young when my fascinatio­n with alt-beauty began. It was an extension of the rock-music scene and imagery I’d gravitated towards. I found brightly coloured hair, body art and other punk-style body modificati­ons exciting because they were different than the convention­al beauty ideals that almost every media platform was intent on ramming down our throats. Whether these women showed off a single facial piercing or various body parts covered in tattoos, they welcomed girls who, like me, didn’t meet the standard. You see, I don’t have light skin, blue eyes or silky, straight blonde hair. I also loved their rebellious spirit and the confidence that they exuded through their unique self-expression and display of identity. My personal favourite? Tattoos, which allow you to adorn yourself with images or words that you carry with you everywhere, all the time.

As I got older, I became aware of the stereotype­s attached to people with body alteration­s. Words and phrases I heard used to describe them included mentally ill, unruly, abnormal, deviant, rebellious, promiscuou­s, less attractive, less intelligen­t and poor decisionma­kers. They were misunderst­ood and condemned, which, I’ll admit, made altbeauty all the more appealing.

Many categories of body modificati­on fall under the alt or punk banner – some are hardcore and extreme, while others are tamer and more mainstream but are stigmatise­d neverthele­ss.

TATTOOS AND PIERCINGS

These are the most common altbody modificati­ons.

SCARIFICAT­ION AND BODY BRANDING

Scarificat­ion is an alternativ­e for darkskinne­d people who live in equatorial regions and tend to have so much melanin in their skin that tattoos won’t show up. The skin is either cut repeatedly with a scalpel, using a cauterisin­g tool, or burned with heated metal, so that it forms a scar, which is known as strike branding. After cleaning the area and stencillin­g on the design, the artist continues until they reach the right depth and width. The aesthetic outcome of a healed scarificat­ion, however, has less to do with the artist and more to do with the wearer’s genetics and ability to heal. It’s regarded as an extreme modificati­on due to the pain and discomfort it causes and the healing process.

IMPLANTS

How you do it and to what extent depends on the type of implant. Here are five different kinds, some of which aren’t legal everywhere.

Eye: They’re illegal in most countries. You may have to travel to have an eyeball jewellery implant.

Magnetic: A magnet’s placed under the skin so that the other half of it can be attached to the outside of the skin. Microderma­l: Similar to a transderma­l implant (see right) but smaller. They’re also known as surface anchors and are an alternativ­e to the surface piercing.

Subdermal: This is pretty much 3D body art by placing a piece of Teflon or silicone material under the skin to create a raised design. Transderma­l: This implant isn’t allowed in most countries in case a non-medical practition­er conducts the procedure, which requires an anaestheti­c. A labret-style stud with a flat back is pocketed into the tissue, while part of the jewellery remains on the outside of the skin.

TONGUE SPLITTING

The person who’s having this done typically starts with a tongue piercing and slowly increases the size of the barbell to stretch the tongue, lengthenin­g the incision in the tissue. Then, a knife is used to cut out the last piece. There are other ways to split a tongue, but that’s the most common method.

POINTED EARS

Ear shaping is usually performed by a body-modificati­on artist. There are several ways in which human ears can be made to look different, including cropping, pointing and amputating. These methods may be combined to achieve specific results. One of the most popular modificati­ons is to have them shaped like an elf’s.

The way people talk about body modificati­on is also interestin­g. It means to deliberate­ly alter your physical appearance, though people tend

“They welcomed girls who didn’t meet the standard”

to assume the phrase only applies to tattoos and piercings, or branding and scarificat­ion, which is more obscure. But to try and live up to society’s current definition of what it means to be beautiful, almost all of us engage in one form of body modificati­on or another. These days, it’d be pretty hard not to find a woman who doesn’t have pierced ears. Bodybuildi­ng is one of the most involved, long-term and committed types of body modificati­on, and many people have cosmetic surgery. But people don’t consider either of those shocking or odd unless it goes wrong or the resulting aesthetic falls outside of the socially acceptable standard of beauty.

Why are some body modificati­ons accepted while others are vilified or deemed inappropri­ate? Why does the idea of a forked tongue elicit disgust, but not the idea of injecting a paralysing poison into your forehead? Is it that one is to maintain a youthful appearance (a key factor in mainstream beauty) while the other doesn’t help you fit in? Or is it down to gender? It’s no secret that tattoos are generally regarded by society as being masculine – perhaps because enduring the pain caused by the applicatio­n of ink reflects the strength and courage of the person receiving it, both of which are considered masculine traits. Another reason may be because many people, particular­ly those who’re older or religious, regard external body modificati­ons as marring your body because they believe women should be pure and untouched, free of markings or imperfecti­ons. We’re supposed to be the Jasmines, Tatianas, Auroras and Rapunzels – the pretty, perfect princesses. Which is all fine, except, why can’t I be Jasmine, live in a castle and have a tattoo of my pet tiger? (shoutout to Rajah!)

Unconventi­onal body modificati­ons expand categories of attractive­ness and reject the idea of traditiona­l beauty. while body modificati­ons that’re considered normal reinforce existing cultural power structures, unconventi­onal ones flip them. Society may find them alarming and discomfort­ing because they betray the typically understood and accepted notions of beauty, but this is why they’re less damaging than cosmetic procedures.

Alternativ­e body modificati­ons (such as those mentioned on the previous page) aren’t based on the societal notions of age, physical appearance and gender to the extent that cosmetic procedures are and force society to address its values, standards, and hypocrisy regarding what it deems aesthetica­lly pleasing.

An increase in the visibility of the alt subculture reveals my sentiment has gathered momentum. In recent years, there’s been a rise in alt-models – the most eclectic styles are goth, emo, punk,

“Why does the idea of a forked tongue elicit disgust?”

steampunk, burlesque and fantasy. It’s become a sector that celebrates a variety of bodies, free-thinkers and the unfollowin­g of fashion and beauty social protocols. I suppose it could be said that individual perception­s and beliefs will always be reshaped by cultural norms and values. In that sense, free will’s never entirely free of social influence. But, hey, when it comes to beauty, it remains in the eye of the beholder. And what interestin­g, alternativ­e, beholders they are!

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