The buzz of dermaplaning

Everything you need to know before trying this out yourself Is it OK to try at home?

you may have seen people on Youtube shaving their faces using small razors to exfoliate their skin or get rid of facial hair and wondered, “What is dermaplaning, and should I try it?” While those Youtube tutorials may make dermaplaning look like an easy DIY procedure, experts say you should avoid trying this at home for several reasons that we’ll explain. Plus, dermaplaning isn’t recommended for all skin types, so it’s best to consult with a dermatologist about whether it’s right for you.

What is dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning is a cosmetic procedure that involves scraping your face with a scalpel to remove the epidermis — your top layer of skin — and small hairs, explains Dr Jenny Kim, professor of dermatology, medicine, and nutrition at the David Geffen School of Medicine at the University of California. Traditionally, people have the procedure done in a dermatologist’s office, however, you can find blades at the pharmacy marketed for at-home dermaplaning use. That said, it’s safer for a professional to perform this. (We’ll get to all of that in a bit.) It’s also always a good idea to research any procedure you’re interested in. During a dermaplaning session, the dermatologist uses a medical-grade scalpel to scrape across the surface of the skin. The treatment takes about 15 minutes, and it can cost anywhere from R350 for the treatment only, excluding a full facial, depending on where you go.

What are the benefits?

The main reason people do it is to remove the vellus hairs on their faces,

which some people refer to as peach fuzz. Everyone has these fine vellus hairs coating their bodies, and they serve a purpose: vellus hairs keep us warm and add another layer of protection to the skin. But some peoples’ vellus hairs are thicker and more visible than others, and depending on how they feel about that, they might want to have it removed. Of course, dermaplaning is just one way to do that.

You may have heard that shaving hair on your face makes hair grow back thicker — that’s technically not true. But it may look thicker or darker, thanks to having a blunter tip from shaving as it grows out, according to the Mayo Clinic.

Dermatologist Dr Rosemarie Ingleton says the biggest reason she does dermaplaning in her practice is to remove vellus hairs, but that the blade also gets rid of a superficial layer of dead skin. This can make your skin look brighter, help your skincare products sink in better, and make your foundation go on smoother.

When it comes to exfoliating, no studies show how dermaplaning compares to other treatments such as retinoids or chemical peels, says Dr Kim. “Peels help to improve texture, tone, acne and fine lines,” she says. “Many of them give deeper exfoliation than a scalpel,” Dr Downie says.

To achieve your goals, it’s particularly important to have in-depth knowledge about the skin’s anatomy. This provides a professional approach to treating specific skin concerns without causing secondary damage, explains skin expert Yoscha Uren. “Cosmetic procedures can be slightly more invasive to reach goals quicker and more effectively,” says Yoscha.

While it might feel like getting rid of these hairs is easy to do at home with an inexpensive blade, professionals warn against it. Any blade you get overthe-counter won’t be as sharp — or as effective — as the medical-grade scalpel used at the office. You may cut yourself in the process, which can cause scarring.

Anytime a sharp object goes near your face, there’s a risk of damage to the skin. Dr Downie says she’s seen patients with scarring after a dermaplaning session gone wrong.

“If you want to achieve the best results, then this treatment should be done in addition to others such as microdermabrasion, chemical peels, ultra-sonic cleansing brushes and hydra facials. These will only be suitable in an aesthetic salon with a sterile environment,” Yoscha adds.

How often should you have dermaplaning done?

In order to keep the hair away, you might have to get treated about once a month. (Of course, the exact timeline will look different for each person.) Dr Kim says this isn’t a treatment you should do often. Our epidermis helps protect us from allergens and other potential irritants in the outside world — dermaplaning too often may irritate or damage that top layer of protection.

“Dermaplaning is a cosmetic procedure that involves scraping your face with a scalpel to remove the epidermis”

When should you avoid it?

Make sure that precautionary measures are taken before having a cosmetic procedure done. You should avoid direct sun exposure and any blood-thinning medication. People with conditions such as active acne, psoriasis, eczema or rosacea should also avoid dermaplaning, Yoscha adds.

Is there anything else to know about dermaplaning?

After a dermaplaning treatment, you need to take care of your skin. “You have to coat your skin with sunblock afterwards because you’re going to be more sensitive to the sun,” says Dr Downie. “You also have to be cautious of retinol and glycolic acids.”