AND YOUR HAIRLINE
The owner of Urban Zulu Sibo Kaluw talks about common causes of hairline loss and what you can do to repair and prevent damage.
CARING FOR YOUR NATURAL HAIR
it’s tempting to install braids only to forget about taking care of your hair until your next salon visit. But your hair needs regular care and maintenance, whether in braids or not. here are five things you need to do to keep your hair and scalp healthy:
moisturise, moisturise, moisturise. we cannot stress this enough. you can use a braid spray, water-based moisturising spray or your favourite spritz mix, but the point is to do it daily to keep your scalp and hair healthy. you can also have treatments done whilst having your hair braided, such as deep-conditioning, hotoil or moisturising. make sure to activate your natural sebum by slowly massaging your scalp often.
wash your hair daily. you don’t need to suffer from an itchy scalp until you can take your braids off because you can cleanse it using dry shampoo or an apple cider vinegar (acv) rinse. washing your braids reduces product build-up and keeps your scalp healthy for continued hair growth. nighttime care involves weaing a silk or satin scarf to bed. Keeping your braids covered while you sleep keeps your braids looking neat and has the added benefit of caring for your hair. don’t keep them on too long (more about that below).
THIS IS HOW LONG YOU SHOULD KEEP YOUR BRAIDS INSTALLED
Braids are a great way to avoid having to regularly manipulate your hair. depending on your hair type, they’re typically an easy, protective style you can keep for a long time. a common misconception is that the longer you keep braids, the better – that’s not true. Keeping your braids on for longer than eight weeks can damage your scalp and hair. that applies to box braids, cornrows, crochet, or just about any style where your hair is locked in position on your scalp. we recommend keeping your braids in for six to eight weeks. we also recommend that you leave at least one week’s gap between braids to allow your scalp to rest and breathe.
KEEPING YOUR BRAIDS LOOKING FRESH FOR LONGER
the first tip is obvious, but we’ll say it anyway: protect your hair at night by wearing a satin or silk scarf. you should do that whether you have braids or not because it’ll help keep your braids looking neat, prevent frizz and help protect your roots from drying out. the second tip is to keep your hair clean and moisturised. we recommend spritzing daily with a waterbased solution. wash your braids to remove the build-up of sweat and products, which can damage your hair. you can use a dry shampoo or an acv rinse: mix one part acv and three parts water, and wipe down the scalp in sections. another easy trick is to redo the edges. Be careful to detangle and moisturise before reinstalling your braids.
MEET OUR HAIR CARE EXPERT
sibo kaluw is the owner of urban zulu hair, a natural hair salon based in Joburg that specialises in the care and maintenance of natural hair.
Hairline loss is when your hair thins, typically at the front of your head and sometimes the nape of your neck.
“in some cases, we see loss around the entire head where the hair usually starts. this is distressing for women, especially if they experience general hair loss and bald patches around the head,” says sibo kaluw. alopecia has various forms, the most common of which is traction alopecia. she says other culprits include losing your hair through tension caused by tight braid styles or wearing it in a tight ponytail or bun, or if you use chemicals or heat.
“in some cases, people with very long hair may also develop it due to its weight pulling on the hairline,” she says.
so, how do you remedy it?
GETTING YOUR HAIRLINE BACK
it’s possible to grow your edges back. if there’s no scarring and there’s still hair to grow, there’s hope.
according to the american academy of dermatology, our hair grows about 1.5cm per month on average. how fast your hair grows depends on several factors, including age, specific hair type, genetics, overall health and other health conditions.
two main ingredients are required to regrow your hairline: patience and consistency. you also have to commit to to undoing the damage caused over a long time. whilst there are no quick fixes or magical products that’ll cause your hair to grow back overnight, the ones we recommend below have shown positive results when used diligently:
1. HOMEMADE:
a. castor oil b. rice water c. aloe vera
2. COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS:
a. suki okapi hair growth kit b. t444z c. mizani miracle length d. african black castor oil *wearing a satin or silk scarf to bed is essential.
THE BEST BRAID STYLES FOR YOUR HAIRLINE
what you really want to do is reduce manipulation and allow your hair to grow in peace. we also encourage you to perform scalp massages to stimulate your hair follicles for growth. creating a protective style that allows you to apply products and massage your scalp is best. here are our top five best protective styles for hairline repair:
crochet braids
Flat twists knotless box braids braided bun or balo cornrows with your own hair
Before march 2020, the most popular braid style was the dependable box braid, “in black please”, among students and professionals alike.
“as we emerge from the uncertainty of the pandemic, we’re noticing daring hairstyles and more colour is trending,” says sibo kaluw, “Braids remain a popular hairstyle, yet there’s something new about them, brought about during the lockdown.” Below, she shares trends that reflect the times in which we’re living.
COLOUR THERAPY
Black remains a popular choice, but more people are asking for braid styles in golden browns, blondes and ombres, while the younger generation has dyed their braids pink, green, blue and red.
ombre colours are multi-tonal, so you start with one colour then blend it into another one. it can begin dark brown, ease into golden brown and have blonde ends, as an example.
QUICK AND EASY HAIRSTYLES
the second change we’ve noticed is the need for greater convenience and ‘fast’ styles. most people are working from home and typically visit a salon with their laptops. gone are the days when people would be happy to sit for hours having their braids done while watching tv. they want to be in and out, looking good.
the increasing variety of crochet braid styles available is giving people more options and saving time. even those who pop in for a quick fix during their lunch break have more options now. the most popular hairstyle at our salon is the mambo twist. these are reusable braids you can style straight or curly, long or short, in as little as an hour, and they look stunning. they’re such a winner that many of our clients are opting to do them in different colours and lengths.
I AM NOT MY HAIR
Perhaps the most interesting shift has been towards braid styles that reflect individuality. the majority of our clients that would opt for trendy hairstyles worked in the creative industry. But that’s changed. it’s a joy to see women transform before our eyes. it’s not clear why people are more daring, but it could be because they’re spending less time in the office and, therefore, not having to conform to a particular look, and realising life’s too short for boring hair.
OUR TOP FIVE FAVOURITE BRAID STYLES: 1. KNOTLESS BUTTERFLY BRAIDS
a spin-off from the butterfly locs that are hot in 2021. we love these because they’re gentle on the hairline, lighter and come in lots of colours. For these, we use either sensationnel Xpressions or darling one million.
2. BOHO BRAIDS
add a twist to traditional box braids. we achieve this look by adding a curly hairpiece to standard braids. the result is a transformation to a bohemian princess. For this look, we use sensationnel Xpression hairpiece, darling one million or hot Beyoncé.
3. SPRING TWISTS
these have been around for a while but remain a firm favourite, with soft, lightweight coily curls that remind us of summer.
4. CHUNKY TWISTS WITH BEADS
a quick, easy, stylish and versatile way to protect your natural hair in braids. styles include senegalese twists, havana twists and passion twists, which can be installed individually or crocheted, depending on the brand.
5. MAMBO TWISTS
lightweight, easy and quick to install. our clients say it’s a headturner, and we think it’ll continue to be trendy for years to come.