WESTERN CAPE INTERIOR
When a group of 4x4 enthusiasts drive over huge boulders instead of around it you know the word “can’t” doesn’t exist in their vocabulary.
We’re all grateful for infrastructure and well-built roads. Most of us are quick to complain about potholes, even when sitting behind the wheel of an off-roader. But if you see the rock-strewn passes that a group of 4x4 enthusiasts from the Western Cape tackle, you’d be excused for thinking they’ve lost their minds. “Two diff locks – one in front and one at the back – and a winch are the minimum requirements for this adventure,” explains Louis Smit, team leader of the group who will be tackling these gruelling trails during the course of the next week. You might think Louis is referring to specially modified pipe cars or Monster Truck-type monstrosities, but that’s not the case at all. Except for bigger tyres, the drivers, together with their co-pilots, will be traversing the Cape mountains in seven almost ordinary off-roaders – from a Jeep Rubicon to a 15-year-old Toyota Hilux and a 50-year-old Jeep Wagoneer that looks like a tank from the Second World War.
First in line
The trip starts in Worcester with a trial run outside of town. Then it’s off to the next two trails near Wupperthal in the Cederberg, back to the area around De Doorns for the next two, and finally the last two outside of Laingsburg.
Not even a kilometre out of town, Louis pulls over. There’s no 4x4 trail in sight. About 500 m into the veld there’s a two-storeyhigh pile of dirt with rocks packed on the one side. Louis calls it the Wall of Death – the steepest section has to be a good 45°. But this is only to whet the appetite for what lies ahead.
It’s not long before each one in the group of six (Doep Fourie in his Land Cruiser 4.5 V8 double cab will be joining the group tomorrow) is climbing up and down the mound. It’s just rocks and dirt everywhere you look, and the diff locks are hard at work. Besides the six trails that lie ahead, the first real challenge is only a few kilometres away. Tierkloof’s 4x4 trail isn’t impossible, but apart from its obstacles the drivers are given an additional challenge: a night drive.
Shortly after the evening’s braai, while he’s handing out caps and T-shirts, Louis explains what awaits: “Guys, switch on all lights for the drive. Fold your mirrors inward so you don’t get blinded from behind. Let’s keep calm and keep the vehicles in one piece. No rushing. Look, I’m not even wearing a watch. Remember, if your vehicle starts jumping, take your foot off the accelerator. You don’t want a driveshaft to snap.”
It’s super dark, and while the vehicles are conquering the bad dirt road up the mountain, Worcester’s lights are shining in the distance. Besides the opportunity of driving a 4x4 >
trail in the dark, the idea is to check if the vehicles are ready for the next few days’ challenges. If things go wrong tonight, Worcester is close enough so we can fix it. The Wagoneer is also not a full-on Wagoneer. Underneath it’s old body André Taljaard put a Lexus 4.3 V8 engine. But it’s the first vehicle to sustain damage: the differential gets caught on a rock. As the wheels try to find grip it places so much tension on the chassis that one of the ladder frame’s crossbars tears. The convoy comes to a standstill and two or three guys get underneath the vehicle. “It’s not too serious. We can fix it in Worcester early tomorrow morning.”
The wheels start turning again but unfortunately the Wagoneer’s problems continue. The alternator decides to break down and André has to drive without lights. André and his passenger, Danie Swanepoel, make a plan and shine spotlights out of the windows to see where they’re going. “When my Jeep breaks it makes me feel physically ill,” mutters André. The rest of the cars are behaving admirably and halfway up the mountain the group makes a turn back to the starting point. The off-roader with arguably some of the biggest tyres on the tour – 35” – soon leaves Marcel Loubser in the lurch. The right front tyre of his Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0 came off the rim.
About 500 m into the veld there’s a two-storeyhigh pile of dirt with rocks packed on the one side. Louis calls it the Wall of Death...
Someone mentions you should spray deodorant into the affected tyre and then strike a match. Luckily, Marcel doesn’t get the flame going in the strong gust. Back to the regular method, then. Pull the tyre with your hands as close as possible to the bead seat of the rim while you let air in with a compressor. Soon the Jeep’s front wheel is repaired. But just like with the Wagoneer, the problems keep on coming. The Cherokee continues to shed its tyres like a cat shaking off socks, and shortly after midnight the first day’s driving is finally over.
Johnny has the final say
On day 2, the second leg of this tough trails awaits, almost like Polly Shorts in the Comrades Marathon and Suikerbossie on the Cape Town Cycle Tour route. After bending and mending things into shape after the night drive, the group of seven meet each other outside Wupperthal. The Cederberg is a remote part of the world and huge rocks are strewn about on the dry mountains like giant brown sugar cubes. The Tra-Tra Pass Trail runs in a circle over the Vaalheuningberg back to Wupperthal, with a section known as Johnny se Poort. (By the way, the road over Johnny se Poort is closed to the public because apparently it’s too dangerous. For the tour though, Louis arranged access with the authorities.)
We hear Wupperthal’s church bell ringing – it’s Sunday morning – and Louis calls the drivers over to make sure everyone knows exactly what’s going on. For Johnny there’s even an order of who drives where and the group of seven is arranged almost like train carriages. “Moses, are you ready?” Louis asks Deon Vizagie in his Land Cruiser V8 80 Series. Put a staff in his hand and he’ll certainly resemble the biblical prophet. “Guys, deflate the tyres to point six and then let me point out the way.” Ian Human in his Jeep Rubicon 3.6 softly makes a comment that sums up the general feeling in the group: “Suddenly I’m a bit worried…”
The pass winds up steeply all the way to Johnny, where the group waits to tackle this challenge one by one. It’s right before the summit but a good 70 m of the road consists of loose rocks and high ridges, and that’s not even mentioning the inclines. If you believe Louis, not many 4x4 drivers have Johnny on their CV. >
Last year only four of the 12 vehicles managed, he says. A Prado once went off the road and rolled down the mountain. As befits any good leader, Louis takes Johnny on first. Don’t look down your nose at Louis’ Toyota Stallion (nicknamed Tolla), because underneath the unassuming exterior he’s bolted the legendary Toyota 4y engine onto a Hilux 4x4 chassis. Louis revs high and the vehicle screams as it pulls away. With its soft tyres it looks like Tolla is bouncing on balloons. It’s almost as if Louis secretly came and practiced because he knows exactly what he’s doing. Rolls of toilet paper and an army sleeping bag at the back of the vehicle fall to the front as Louis makes his way over the rocks. It’s clear there’s no stopping Tolla and it’s not long before Louis honks the horn in a victory cry.
The rest of the drivers descend on Johnny like an army of ants and try to move some of the big, loose rocks to clear the path. Ian is up next and gets stuck at a big rock about 30 m in. Japie Bothma is also in the car and while he’s still navigating “keep left… left… left…” Johnny plays its trump card. “This Jeep is too short,” says Louis. “It can’t just crawl out. Get the winches ready.” Tolla is now at the top and both vehicles’ winches are unwound. Louis then adds another cable and a strap in the middle.
Moses is third and breezes through. He doesn’t even bat an eye as his Cruiser shows Johnny what it’s made of. “Go Moses!” someone yells from the bottom as he waits for his turn and the guys next to the road applaud.
Oom Doep crosses the first hurdle with his Cruiser when the wheels start spinning. “Don’t mess everything up… I also still need to get over!” shouts Willem Viljoen, who’s next in line with his old green Hilux. Oom Doep has a problem with one of his tyres and makes way for Willem while Louis gives advice: “Use low range in first gear and keep the engine at 3 000 rpm.” “Groenie”, as everyone refers to Willem’s Hilux, storms ahead, and with about a third of the way behind him, Willem turns sharply onto a rock and the right front tyre comes off the rim. Before Louis can say the word “winch”, Willem protests and says there’s no chance. He’ll get out of this himself. Alex van Eeden is the co-pilot in Groenie and they quickly pull the tyre back over the rim. Willem gets momentum and conquers Johnny without any further issues.
There’s more trouble for Marcel. His Cherokee starts jerking just past the starting point. Ian comes over and removes a long, round pipe from underneath the vehicle. The Cherokee is now minus a rear driveshaft and has to call it a day. André and his tank have seen worse and quickly and easily drive up Johnny all the way to the top.
Of all the trails so far – as well as those that still lie ahead – only Johnny has a prize-giving afterwards. That evening we get together at Barry and Mariëtte Lubbe’s Mertenhoff Guesthouse while the smell of home-cooking hangs in the air. Louis gives Willem a bottle of KWV and crowns him that day’s king of Johnny.
Rock people
There’s nothing like a decent meal, a good night’s sleep, and nature’s fresh morning air to get you back on track.
On top of the cliff there are more than 30 figures packed out of rocks, each about a storey high.
Early the next morning the guys gather together with renewed energy. Conversations are flowing and the atmosphere is jovial before the seriousness that’s about to follow. “You know, there’s just one thing that can stop my Cruiser,” says Moses, “and that’s a petrol pump.” Meanwhile, Bok (also known as Louis Coetzee, the team leader’s right-hand man), is looking for some foot powder. “It’s not the end of the world. We just need to stop at the first shop. Some snuff also works well.”
From Bennie’s farm the day’s trail runs to the left over the Cederberg back in the direction of the Tankwa Karoo. The first section is part of Bennie’s Biedouw 4x4 Trail, from where you start climbing up the mountains. At the top, in Boesmanskloof, Bennie points out weird potholes in the mountain. You feel dwarfed by the giant round halls that have been whittled away by the water over the years and that you can fit a house into. Bennie explains that the name Biedouw originates from the Melkhout Pass. “Bi” in Nama means milk and “douw” means pass. Bennie also shows us the highest peaks in the Cederberg visible from here, with Tafelkop the highest.
There’s a short stretch where the group’s path crosses with the Old Postal Route, which is where we turn off to Kliphuiskloof 4WD Trail. The rocky track takes you back down into the valley in the direction of the Tankwa to the Doring River. The trail belongs to Coetzee and Karen Roux and close to the river Coetzee shows us we need to veer to the right of the tracks. The road that runs through the thorn trees and sandy riverbank hasn’t seen much traffic. Opposite the river there’s a 40 m high cliff that towers out of the water. On top of the cliff there are more than 30 figures packed out of rocks, each about a storey high. Coetzee says they discovered these six months ago and as far as they can tell nothing about this has been recorded anywhere. The figures range from sheep-like forms to stickmen and camels. It’s really something to behold, and if you look through binoculars it looks like the rocks are simply stacked on top of each other. It’s also quite odd that you don’t see the figures as you approach in your vehicle. It looks more as if the mountains have aloes sticking out of it… until you get there and you recognise the shapes. >
The Karmedo-Eland River dirt road lies ahead. At Touws River, Louis refuels and we shoot through to Leeuwenboschfontein, where we’ll stay while we do the next two trails.
To the pavilion
Early the next morning, Groenie gets a new diesel filter, even though it doesn’t seem necessary. “It’s just for something different,” jokes Willem. “Let’s call it precautionary. So we don’t have to ask for help later.”
The Hex River 4x4 Trail is 26 km from Leeuwenboschfontein in the direction of De Doorns on Vrederus, Theuns Hugo’s farm. The name is slightly misleading because there’s a “mini Johnny” that awaits us. Oom Theuns farms with sheep, prunes, apricots and cherries, and he says he doesn’t allow fewer than five vehicles on the trail. If you get stuck alone in the mountains it can become a nightmare because you’re far away from everything and everyone. “The guys need to be careful, because we’ve had a Colt and a Hilux roll in the past.”
The twin-track first runs through fynbos and is a tame introduction to what’s coming. As the vehicles flatten the bushes growing in the middle of the road, the smell of wild herbs permeates the air. The mountain starts showing its true colours and the mild road soon becomes one littered with boulders.
As per usual, Louis drives in front. He stops, because the trouble has started. He rolls a rock or two to where he wants it, but as you know by now, this convoy drives over everything. “I mean, who builds a road?!” the driver in the back shouts. “Roadworks!” adds André.
We go slowly over the rocks. As every vehicle gets a turn to tackle the obstacle, the rest look on like spectators at an event and the advice flows freely. Louis glances in the direction of Doep’s Cruiser. He says the Cruiser is about as long as a dachshund and should rather drive around the rock. But Oom Doep does things his own way. He gets a rowdy applause as he shows the “young guys” how it’s done. “No man, this looks like the N1,” jokes Louis while the last few guys wait for their turn.
There’s a lone eucalyptus tree in front on the ridge, at the foot of “mini Johnny”. A steep rock track of 40–50 m runs to the top past the tree. Even if you climb
The mountain starts showing its true colours and the mild road soon becomes one littered with boulders.
up you’ll be out of breath. The rest of the group climb to the top of a rock, making an informal pavilion from which they can check out the 4x4 sports.
Again, Groenie refuses to back down, and with the real Johnny in the back of his mind, Willem once again conquers the rocks. “That clutch is burning!” someone shouts from the pavilion. “Release the clutch and easy on the revs,” the smart alecs chime in from the side. You can see the previous few days’ experiences have left a lasting impression and another difficult obstacle is completed.
The group finishes the day’s adventures with a braai and life is as it should be.
Sign here please...
From Leeuwenboschfontein the Wagon Wheel 4x4 Trail is in the direction of Montagu and also the first place where the guys have to put pen to paper: Louis hands out indemnity forms.
Over one of the two-way radios we hear that Tolla’s fuel is low. Moments later, Ian’s voice comes over the air: “Moses, prepare yourself; we’re looking at a blood transfusion.” Louis has no idea of the troubles Tolla has in store for him. Louis aims Tolla’s nose down into a big eroded ditch. Close to where he has to come out again there’s a donga that will make mincemeat of your vehicle if you’re not careful. Tolla struggles to find traction. “I’m definitely not going to break my car here,” says one of the other drivers. Louis hesitates and immediately someone says to get a winch ready. “Can’t you see I’m still busy?” Louis says grumpily and wiggles himself over the edge of the donga. “Come guys, we can’t just do inclines,” Louis challenges the rest.
“If you have any nervous twitches, get it out of the way now,” says Louis, because the difficult part is still coming. “Cars have rolled here,” he says, indicating the road ahead with a steep ridge to the right and a ditch to the left. Groenie is the last to make it over the ridge and the Hilux is at such an angle it looks like the front left tyre is coming off the rim. Marcel gets onto the other side of the bakkie to distribute the weight more evenly. “Isn’t there another big guy who can come help?” he asks. >
Tolla has some petrol blockage and it stutters to a standstill. After pouring petrol straight down the carburettor, it springs back to life.
Two in one
The trip is nearing the end and the last overnight spot is a few kilometres outside of Laingsburg in the Witteberg. Louis wants to do Koos van der Merwe’s Zuurkloof 4x4 Trail, but he first turns off at Albert and Estelle Murphy’s. Louis wants to check out their new Waterval Trail. In the meantime Ian showed André all the oil smudges on the back of his Jeep:
The differential has a hole in it and unfortunately the Wagoneer will have to remain behind.
The Waterval Trail climbs from the plains to the top of the mountain, from where you can see the roofs in Matjiesfontein. It’s the one hair-pin bend after the other against merciless inclines, and it feels like a few Sani Passes have been stitched together – only worse. Around many of the bends you have to make a three-point turn to make it through the bend. Zuurkloof is about an hour’s drive on and where the last unexpected obstacle awaits: Tolla se Klip.This rock is about 25 m high with an incline of more than 40°. The challenge is to see who can get to the top of the rock with its kink at the end. Before you go over you have to make a sharp right and if you don’t watch what you’re doing, you’ll flip your car. As per usual, Louis shows us the way, but instead of turning, he drives over the top and comes back by way of a detour. Ian doesn’t waste any time and writes his name on Tolla se Klip. He manages the right turn and parks proudly a little bit further to see who else will take up the challenge.
Only Willem is brave enough and makes it to the turn, but the incline proves to be too much for Groenie. The rear tyre comes off the rim and Louis lifts the tail with a high-lift jack on its highest setting to pull the tyre back. Meanwhile a few big guys are hanging onto the other side of the bakkie so that Groenie doesn’t tip over. Willem looks at his co-driver, Alex, as if he’s about to confess: “I’m done. And if it looks like I might want to try it again, please slap me.”