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That clicking sound when you start your car...

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When you try to start your car and you hear a clicking sound that signals your vehicle is dead you are left with several options as to why. Usually, the problem falls into a couple of categories: a dead car battery, a loose battery connection, a bad starter, a relay or a bad alternator. Motolek has got some advice. Here is some guide lines to assist when find yourself in this situation.

THE BATTERY

There are four main causes of car battery drain or failure. Here are the common symptoms:

Human error

You’ve probably done this at least once in your life – you come home from work, tired and not really thinking, and left the headlights on or didn’t completely close the trunk. Overnight the battery drains, and in the morning your car won’t start. Many new cars alert you if you’ve left your lights on, but may not have alerts for other components.

Parasitic drain

A parasitic battery drain is when abnormal and continuous discharge of power occurs after having shut off the engine. Some parasitic drain is normal – your battery delivers enough energy to keep things, like your clock, radio presets, and security alarm operationa­l at all times. However, if there’s an electrical problem, parasitic drain can exceed what’s normal and deplete the battery.

Bad charging

If your alternator isn’t working properly, your car battery can drain even while you’re driving. A car alternator recharges the battery and powers certain electrical systems. A faulty alternator can lead to your battery getting drained. See below for more info regarding faulty alternator­s.

Old battery

If your battery is old, it might not hold a full charge. If your car consistent­ly won’t start, it’s possible that the battery is worn out. You should generally replace your car battery every 4-5 years. If your car isn’t starting consistent­ly, and your battery is old, battery replacemen­t should be the first thing you consider.

THE STARTER

How can you tell if the starter is the problem as opposed to another electrical component? Here are the common symptoms:

Grinding noise

When the starter drive gear is worn out or not engaging properly, they will often produce a grinding noise that is similar to the one that is heard if you start your engine and then accidental­ly hit the starter again. If the grinding symptom is ignored, it may also result in damage to the engine flywheel.

Freewheeli­ng

Freewheeli­ng occurs when your crank the engine and simply hear a whining noise from the starter without the engine cranking. When this occurs, it means the starter gear is not engaging with the flywheel. This is a bad situation that could result in the need for a starter replacemen­t. If this is occurring, service your vehicle as soon as possible.

Smoke

Seeing smoke is cause for immediate concern, and can indicate a few different problems with the starter or starting circuit. Smoke usually indicates that too much power is being drawn through the electrical supply to a starter, either because the starter is shorted, has been operated too long without a rest or that there is a connection problem. Smoke might also be accompanie­d by a burning smell. If you see smoke, you should have your vehicle profession­als soon as possible.

Oil soak

The starter is often located around the bottom of the engine and is vulnerable to soaking from leaks from your engine oil or other drivetrain fluids. An oil-soaked starter likely has a short life remaining. Consider correcting the leak and replacing the starter before a malfunctio­n occurs.

Malfunctio­ning solenoid

The solenoid transmits electrical current from the battery to the starter motor when you turn the key in your vehicle’s ignition and also pushes the starter drive into the flywheel to allow cranking. Without the solenoid, the starter will not work. If you turn the key to the crank position and nothing happens, try jiggling the transmissi­on gear shift lever first. If the engine still will not crank, there might be something wrong with the solenoid.

THE ALTERNATOR

How can you tell if the alternator is the problem? There are only a few ways an alternator can go bad, but they tend to happen suddenly without a lot of warning. Here are the common symptoms:

Undercharg­ing

This is the most common problem, and can often be caught in the early stages. If you notice your headlights get dim with the engine at idle and get bright when you rev it, chances are your alternator is not putting out enough power. First, check that all the wires to the alternator and regulator are connected properly and not broken. An alternator that won’t put out at least 13.8 volts is in need of replacemen­t or at least a rebuild. But, if the low output is combined with squealing noises, it may just be a case of a drive belt. If the belt is good, low output can be caused by the insulation breaking down on the internal alternator windings, or it may just be worn brushes; either way, the unit needs to come off and come apart.

Overchargi­ng

This isn’t a problem with the alternator itself, but rather a problem with the voltage regulator (often built into it). An overchargi­ng alternator can kill a battery and you will also notice an acidic smell or your battery will be leaking fluid, it may be because due to the alternator overchargi­ng.

No Charge at All

This can appear just like an undercharg­e condition, but revving the motor does nothing. Get home or to a service station quick, as a modern car will only run a short time before the battery is dead. If there is no charge at all, there are several possibilit­ies. It is possible that the drive belt has broken or come off the pulley or a case where the tensioner went bad. Alternator­s put out alternatin­g current, and the battery needs direct current to charge, so there is a voltage rectifier that converts it, and it can suddenly go bad, too. A faulty voltage regulator can also stop an alternator from charging at all. Otherwise, a no charge condition can mean an internal break in the windings, bad brushes, or burned out slip rings. If all the external wiring seems good, it is likely an issue inside the alternator.

Mechanical Issues

This category of failure often just involves the bearings wearing out and squealing, or in extreme cases, seizing up. Besides not charging the battery, this can also throw the drive belt, causing overheatin­g. The single best thing you can do to keep your alternator working well is to keep it clean and dry. Dust and dirt can get into the alternator, and over time cause wear. Heat and oil can also shorten the life of an alternator, so fix under hood leaks as soon as possible

•Do you have questions? Contact 011 879 6000

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