4x4 DESTINATION

At the north-western limits of our country, where the Orange River cleaves South Africa and Namibia apart, nature has carved out an arid area of sheer desolation, destined to be seen by few, but deserving of the awe of many.

The Richtersveld has long been respected as a region of very little sustenance, and plenty of dangers. Today, a section is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, an honour earned by the local Nama people who continue to practice their ancient nomadic way of life. The long haul along the N7 (from Cape Town) and the N13 (from Gauteng) is not only scenic, but sumptuously smooth, too. The hours of driving go by quickly as you make your way to Namaqualand, home to Namaqua National Park. The park can be accessed through several gates, but to get to the popular Skilpad Chalets for your first overnight stay, you need to turn off at Kamieskroon. Fill up at the local garage before tackling the gravel. Expect a warm welcome from the ever-present staff. Once settled in at one of the fully kitted chalets, watch the last rays of light fade behind the rolling hills that separate the rest camp from the crashing Atlantic coast. This is no ordinary shoreline. The Namaqua National Park’s 50 km coastal route is dotted with bush camps, each one a hideout from which to marvel at the untouched wilderness. LEAVING YOUR HOMELY Skilpad chalet behind, it’s all about a good sense of direction as you hit the gravel and wind your way along some nasty terrain in search of more of the Namaqua National Park. A long-since burned-out shell of a Chevy Bel-Air tells you that this is no easy route, though you have to wonder how it got out there in the first place. Game is scarce in the park, but you are liable to spot a few bokkies here and there. Eventually, if you’ve picked the correct path, the 4x4 trail zig-zags back to the N7. The surrounding landscape is peppered with interesting vegetation and wandering springbok, and as you approach the town which bears the same name, you’re greeted by ever more quiver trees: the stoic, silent guardians of the northwest. The town is deathly quiet at year’s end. Stock up and roll onward towards Vioolsdrift, watching the temperature gauge climb degree by degree until you begin to question why you ever dreamed up a Richtersveld summer getaway in the first place. Vioolsdrift is home to several reputable campsites, but one in particular captures the significance of the halfway town. Fiddler’s Creek’s riverside plots face the Orange and the Namibian landscape beyond. It’s a good introduction to life along the mighty Gariep, and a hop-off point for adventures into the Richtersveld. The resort boasts a lively bar next to the riverbank, where you can mingle with the mélange of travelers hanging around there. Some, like you, may be using Fiddler’s Creek as a pit stop, but for others, it’s a worthy final destination where they’ll spend their summer days cooling off in the green water. Westward from Vioolsdrift, you’ll encounter a silent army of man-made

cairns scattered on either side of the road. They seem almost natural, but they have in fact been built by the many travellers preparing to tackle the mountain pass that links the border town to Nababeep and the Richtersveld beyond. Leave your mark, if you must. NABABEEP INCLUDES AN old copper mining town and a surrounding protected area, and it’s a suitable place to spend the night, but at this point, you still have quite a long way to go. The road also takes you through Eksteenfontein, another town still scrambling to cling to the prosperity of days gone by. The towns themselves offer little to photograph, but the surrounding landscapes are surreal, if not alien. As you creep further north, the hills and mountains grow taller and more jagged, until you enter the Richtersveld itself, filled with nothing but brittle bushes, sharp stones and lonely, wandering jackals. Out here, the gravel tracks stretch out in perfectly straight sections as far as the eye can see. Ironically, it takes considerable concentration to keep your vehicle pointed straight – sections of deep sand don’t help, either. It’s at this point where you may want to deflate those tyres a bit. As you approach the official entrance to the Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, you can opt to take a quick detour to visit the curiously named Wondergat. It’s not immediately obvious why it’s so special, but as the handy InfoMap Richtersveld guide points out, it’s at least 20 m deep, and probably connected to a much longer cave system that could stretch all the way to the banks of the Orange River itself. THE SOUTH-WESTERN entrance to the Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfontier Park is rather unassuming, and the guard may give visitors the impression that he hasn’t seen another person in a while. Beyond the gate, the rocky landscape continues, but the road splits, offering a straight route to Sendelingsdrif, the park’s main settlement, or a sho’t right through Hellskloof Pass, a treacherous trail that has claimed many a tyre. Sendelingsdrif may be a convenient entry to the park, but it’s nothing to write home about. Beyond serving as a border post and a depot, it’s home to many of the park’s employees, but the surrounding mining operations distract from its location on the banks of the Orange. Nevertheless, it serves its purpose, and you’ll be able to stock up on ice and other essentials at the local shop. When you’re ready to truly discover why you journeyed all this way, head off into the deeper reaches of the park. Keep your eyes on the tricky road but be sure to stay alert for a sign from above... we’re not being funny – the Hand of God is a local geological formation that resembles a gigantic handprint, believed by locals to have been imprinted by the man upstairs himself. It’s just off the main road, and quite impressive. The next destination lies much deeper into the reserve, away from the river and hidden between several rocky outcrops. To reach it, engage low range and crawl up Akkedis Pass, a prime example of why you need a high-clearance vehicle to get around the Richtersveld. While wandering through the vast, arid landscape, take note of the surprising diversity of plant life. As it turns out, the Richtersveld is home to thousands of plant species. It forms part of the greater Succulent Karoo, an area that is widely considered to be the richest arid flora habitat in the world.

Statuesque quiver trees (Aloidendron dichotomum) are arguably the most famous examples of this diversity, dotting the desolate hilltops and valleys throughout the Richtersveld. As you can imagine, this aloe-like tree got its name from the indigenous San people who used its flexible, tough bark to store their poison arrows. Another local floral legend is the enigmatic halfmens (Pachypodium namaquanum), so called because it looks like a hunched-over person from afar. ONCE YOU’VE CONQUERED Akkedis Pass and the long stretches of sand beyond it, continue in a south-easterly direction, following the signs pointing the way to Ganakouriep Wilderness Camp. Out here, miles from popular riverbank campsites, is where you can truly experience the deep isolation of the Richtersveld. There are four self-catering chalets, each with their own fridges and solar geysers, making Ganakouriep an ideal overnight stop for adventurers. The stark, rocky surrounds transform into a sizzling hellscape by day, but as dusk draws near, an eerie haze floats into the Ganakouriep valley, bathing the landscape in a gentler light and encouraging the local birdlife to emerge. This transition from infernal day to icy night is typical of the region, and you’ll be thankful for the fire pit on your stoep as the evening rolls on. When the wind drops, the silence creeps in, pervading everything and amplifying the most inconspicuous noises. Here, then, lies the essence of this enigmatic desert. The great desolation of the place is relentless. It’s the kind of place where you feel oh so tiny, and yet acutely aware of your place in everything. The mountains of the Richtersveld have been untouched for millennia and will remain so for eons to come. For those of us who make the

journey, it’s a chance to gain some real perspective. ONCE YOU’RE READY to leave the middle of nowhere, there’s really only one place to go. The Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park’s most popular campsites are along the Orange River itself, and chief among them is De Hoop. You’ll be eager to escape the heat and get to the river nice and early, but you can opt to explore more of the park’s popular spots instead. In our case, the heavens opened up and drenched us with a morning shower as we left Ganakouriep. To say that rain is uncommon in the Richtersveld is a slight understatement. According to the police in Sendelingsdrif, they’ve had a mere 6mm of rain in the last three years. Back on the road, you have the option to make a detour to Kokerboomkloof, where hundreds of these iconic trees dot the boulder-strewn landscape. Some are immense, and the valley is full of epic photo opportunities. There are also private campsites here, each with their own bathroom and kitchenette. Nearby you’ll find the aptly named Echo Canyon, with a spectacular viewpoint located atop several enormous boulders. Locations like these can be found all over the Richtersveld, making it a destination worth re-visiting over and over again. The SanParks map of the park points several of them out, but it’s worth investing in a comprehensive guide to the region if you’re keen to see them all. KNOWN BY SEVERAL names along its 2 200 km-long banks, the Orange River is a South African icon, feeding regions with sediment-rich water from Lesotho to Alexander Bay. Here in the Richtersveld, it’s the focal point of an arid landscape. Richtersberg and De Hoop are both prime spots for a bit of fly fishing, with De Hoop’s rapids creating the ideal habitat for the indigenous largemouth yellowfish (Labeobarbus kimberleyensis). There are officially 12 campsites at De Hoop, all serviced with cold showers and flushing toilets. The sandy plots lead

directly on to the river, so your days will be spent swapping out the shade of your gazebo for the relief of the fresh water. Many travellers are attracted to the river paddling adventures along the Orange, and here in the park, you’re isolated from all the noise and nuisance of big tour groups. If you own any inflatables, now’s the time to get the air compressor out. There are some choppy rapids around De Hoop, but they’re far from dangerous. Everyone who visits De Hoop does so for the same reason. You might think that it’s a terrible idea to travel to the desert at the peak of the South African summer, but the heat isn’t an issue here. As long as you’ve brought enough ice and some decent shade, you’ll get to experience the Richtersveld at its most spectacular. As dusk paints the surrounding cliffs several shades of red, tall shadows stretch across to the Namibian side of the river, and temperatures drop. Dig a hole in the sand and make a firepit, and watch the Milky Way emerge to put on an unforgettable lightshow. Aside from a gentle breeze, there’s nothing but blissful silence, so take in the crackle of the firewood and the trickle of the distant rapids as you reflect on your trip thus far… Holidays along the Orange are simple. All you need is a good book, your drink of choice, and excessive amounts of ice. Sunblock is reapplied hourly and so is a little libation, and all of this is interspersed with dips in the river. If the relentless heat doesn’t get you up in the morning, the herds of goats moving through surely will. Local Nama herders are a common sight along the river, and they’re a huge part of what makes this region special. The goats keep their distance from the tents, but they like to visit the ablution blocks.

The stunning evenings along the Orange make up for the sizzling afternoons, but at this point, all your ice has vanished, and it is perhaps time to take a page out of the Nama peoples’ book and move on… IF YOU DO INTEND to make the short journey across to Namibia, you’ll have to return to Sendelingsdrif, where a SANParks-operated ferry will get you and your vehicle across the Orange River. En route, you can choose to spend a night at Potjiespram Rest Camp, but compared with Richtersberg and De Hoop, it’s nothing to write home about. There are plenty of campsites hidden in the thicket along the river, but if you want to swim, you’ll need to find a way through a mess of rocks and rapids. Back in Sendelingsdrif, you’ll need to follow the usual border-crossing procedures at the SAPS checkpoint, and then do the same on the Namibian side. Once your passport is stamped, you’ll have the freedom of Namibia’s C13 road. As you wind along the well-manicured gravel freeway, you’ll get an entirely new perspective of the river. The landscape is stark and featureless, save for a few scattered bushes and endless sharp peaks that jut out of the dry earth. In Aussenkehr, despite a desperate lack of rainfall, acres and acres of grape vines thrive in the summer heat, fed by the lifegiving river. Sadly, the settlement itself is a miserable place to live, with hundreds of thatched shacks being the only form of housing. The village is serviced by a Spar, but don’t expect much from the halfempty shelves. Technically, you are no longer in the Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, so you’ll need to head north towards Ai-Ais to get back on track. Ai-Ais is famous for its steamy hot springs along the Fish River, and the resort is a superb overnight oasis. Yet further north is Hobas, a resort settlement back inside the park. This is the gateway to the mighty Fish River Canyon. Once you have conquered the vast flats between Ai-Ais and Hobas, you’ll be welcomed by friendly staff and recently upgraded facilities, including cool swimming pools and spacious campsites. You should reach Hobas long before sunset, giving you time to make camp before heading off to the canyon itself. Keep an eye out for baboons during the day, as well as bats at night – these lowflying insectivores hunt the bugs attracted

to the lights, and are low-flying creatures. It’s a short drive to the edge of the abyss, where you’ll probably enjoy the most spectacular sundowners of your life. The breathtaking view into and across the winding chasm is something everyone should try to see at least once. THE FISH RIVER Canyon is difficult to photograph at sunset, but that just means you’ll have to savour the moment. For the best results, you’ll need to wake up early, especially on a summer adventure. It really is worth the effort of crossing the border. This journey ends here. Yours might continue northward into the Namib, but that’s a story for another time…

TOP The burned-out shell of an old Chevy hides among the bushes in Namaqua National Park. MIDDLE LEFT A curious klipspringer (Oreotragus oreotragus) waits for us to pass. MIDDLE RIGHT A gemsbok (Oryx gazella) watches us as we trundle through Namaqualand. MAIN PIC The black-backed jackal (Canis mesomelas ) is arguably Namaqua National Park’s apex predator, bested only by the elusive leopard for size.

TOP One river, two countries. It’s quite easy to take a swim across to Namibia from Fiddler’s Creek! MIDDLE LEFT A scaly Nile monitor (Varanus niloticus) slinks across the road and into the Orange River just outside of Vioolsdrift. MIDDLE RIGHT You can join any number of river tours from the comfort of Fiddler’s Creek. Canoeing is undoubtedly the best way to see the mighty Gariep. BOTTOM These stone cairns outside Vioolsdrif saturate the landscape, creating an eerie shrine to the weary traveler.

Unnatural stones According to locals, these stone cairns are built by superstitious travelers hoping for an easy and incident-free journey. We did add to a few piles, and perhaps that’s why we made it through without so much as a slow puncture.

LEFT A magnificent example of the quiver tree (Aloidendron dichotomum) at Kokerboomkloof. These trees can grow up to 7 m tall and live for up to 80 years. ABOVE A huge herd of goats makes its way through the campsite, stirring up dust and nibbling at anything green. BELOW Although we didn’t manage to grab any prime property at De Hoop, we were still set up right along the Orange River.

TOP LEFT The Hand of God certainly looks as though it was created by supernatural forces. TOP RIGHT Half stone, half canvas, all comfort. Ganakouriep’s cabins are perfect for a romantic getaway. BOTTOM LEFT Akkedis Pass is the one obstacle your vehicle will need to conquer in order to access the best parts of the Richtersveld National Park. BOTTOM RIGHT Scattered rocks make for excellent shelter from the wind, and the starry sky makes for an epic backdrop.

TOP Despite the harsh conditions, farmers in Aussenkehr have managed to take full advantage of the climate and river to grow world-class grapes. MIDDLE RIGHT After the sun sets beyond the horizon, you’ll be able to snap a half-decent shot of the canyon. MIDDLE LEFT A sad sight to behold, this thatch shack settlement stretches for kilometres and kilometres.