CAMPING DESTINATION
The two sides of Bethlehem show you the two faces of the Free State: camp among sandstone cliffs or on the plains next to vast maize fields. We get our stand at Uithoek and Bassfeather.
The Free State landscape is mostly expansive and flat, but it’s a different story on the province’s eastern border: the Maluti mountain range runs like a natural cut line between the Free State and Lesotho, and that’s where you find the world’s most famous natural phenomenon, the Brandwag rock in the Golden Gate Highlands National Park. Golden Gate is therefore high on many a tourist’s list, but oddly enough, you can count the number of campsites in the area on one hand. Besides Golden Gate’s own campsite, Glen Reenen, a visit to the Uithoek Nature Park is worthwhile. It is the newest campsite in the area, a place where you can relax in absolute silence at the northern foot of the Ventersberg. If you want to stay in the area for longer, visit the Bassfeather Country Lodge near Reitz. It’s just as peaceful here, and do book a couple of days if you travel with your fishing rods.
UITHOEK NATURE PARK Just around the corner
Uithoek’s turn-off is 8 km outside Fouriesburg on the R26 to Bethlehem. From here it is a dirt road (2,8 km) with some rocky section. If you take it slow while towing a road caravan, it won’t bother too much, though. During our visit, the Eastern Free State got soaked in a proper rain shower, and just a day later the road had baked dry and was still in a good condition. There were some muddy spots, but keep to the tracks on the road till you get to the gate on your right. Ventersberg lies ahead of you, with the sandstone ridges stretching to your left and right – almost as if it’s two small Brandbergs on either side of you. In the morning, the right ridge glows in the sun’s first rays, but when the sun starts setting, the other side brightens. Also keep your eyes peeled for the black wildebeest, springboks and zebras grazing on the right of the road. You can see them better from your car, because if you get out and try to walk closer, they run away. The road runs along a barbed-wire fence, and just in front of the campsite there are a few oak trees on the right. So, if you’re towing a wide caravan, you’ll need to drive closer to the fence to make sure it doesn’t hit the trees. THE CAMPSITE IS roughly laid out as a large triangle. The stands are mainly on the sides, with a few in the middle. The ablution block is also in the middle and the pool sits at the far end. A paved road runs in a wide circle through the resort and gives access to most stands. There is a lovely green lawn, too. As you enter the campsite, you’ll find a neat sandstone building on the left that serves as an office and kiosk. There are shade trees dotted around, but at the stands directly after the office there is an avenue of oak trees to the left down the boundary fence, and on the other side of the bathroom building there are large eucalyptus trees. Each stand has a numbered plaque affixed to the paving. The power points (ordinary three-point sockets) are fixed against sandstone pillars. At each power point there is also a rubbish bin and tap plus a sprinkler. There are lots of loose skottel braais with adjustable grids. At the last stand on the inside of the road – opposite the stands by the lane – is a lapa with paving underneath. It also has a number of power points and is a great spot to socialise when a group of friends come camping together. To that end,
Keep your eyes peeled for the black wildebeest, springboks and zebras grazing on the right of the road
AT THE STANDS ON the farthest leg to the left, there is a stream that runs in the rainy season to a dam not too far from the stands. Large willow trees line the banks of the stream, but you don’t really have shade at your stand. Nevertheless, these stands – just like the ones in the middle – are flat and level. Next to the final stand is another lapa, and the dam on its other side. Under the roof is a special braai – a minecart – with a cleverly designed grid that has two handles – one on the right-hand corner next to you and the other one on the far left corner. For golf lovers, Uithoek has a unique challenge: on the dam floats a green with a hole in the middle. See if you’re the one that can sink a ball from the side. On the side is a steel frame with a few clubs, and you play on the honesty principle: there’s a safe for your R10 for every ball you take from the bucket. You’re welcome to hook a black bass
or carp, but it’s strictly catch and release. The dam’s water level depends on the rain, which means summer is the best time for fishing. AS YOU WALK BACK to the campsite, the bathrooms are ahead of you with the row of eucalyptus trees behind them. Just in front of the bathrooms – inside the loop in the road – is a lovely stone table made of sandstone that probably weighs a few tonnes. Even if you don’t use it for a table, it is monument-like and suits the environment and campsite. The ablution block, also build from sandstone, has a washing-up area on the far left under a roof, followed by the women’s facilities, and then the men’s facilities are on the far right. Inside are three modern basins mounted on one solid piece of wood – it looks as though a tree has been cut lengthwise. The three basins are a tad close to each other and at most two people will be able to stand here at the same time. There are also three shower cubicles with only a wet section, but you at least have a bench and hooks to keep your things dry. The shower head is slightly low – if you’re six foot tall, you’ll have to bend over to wash your hair. The last row of stands is all out in the open, lining up along the fence from the entrance to almost at the pool. Their numbers are attached to the fence behind them and some of the stands also have a slight slope. Under the eucalyptus trees there still more few stands, but here the grass is obviously not that lush. Between the last stands and the pool is another lapa with paving. The pool has a shallow side, but it is rather meant for primary school children and older. For off-road enthusiasts, there is a 4x4 trail up the mountain − a warning sign at the starts says it is only for fourwheel-drive vehicles. Access is free if you overnight at Uithoek. Look closely at the blue sky between the ridges and you’ll spot cables stretching from one side to the other. That’s the zip line with its four cables that make up a total of 1,1 km. It costs R500 per person if you want to glide between heaven and earth from one ridge to the next.