Passes aplenty
The Warm and Cold Bokkeveld are two of the most fertile regions in South Africa. This route is surrounded by citrus orchards south of the Cederberg and berry trees at the foot of snow-capped peaks.
Start this 200 km route in Citrusdal in the Olifants River Valley. Follow the R303 regional road for 3 km to the foot of the Middelberg. The first mountain pass on the route, the Elandskloof Pass, dates back to the 18th century, and its lazy bends will entertain you for 7 km before it turns into a gravel road. Up next is the Middelberg Pass with its spectacular view of the Cold Bokkeveld, a valley measuring 70 km long. The Cold Bokkeveld is a high-lying valley about 1 km above sea level that’s tucked snugly between the Kouebokkeveld Mountain to the west and the Skurweberg to the east. The local municipality dutyfully maintains the pass, so the Middelberg Pass is always in good shape.
Third in line is the Buffelshoek Pass (also a gravel road) that actually connects the Middelberg Pass but is nevertheless considered a mountain pass in its own right. The Buffelshoek Pass takes you to the bottom of the valley. Follow the dirt road for another 45 km to the tiny town of Op-die-Berg. You’ll see a few homes, plus an imposing Dutch Reformed church and a co-op, where you can refuel. Leave Op-die-Berg and backtrack 500 m. Turn right at the road sign that says “Cederberg” (S33.01246 E19.31461). Five minutes later, stop at the historic Boplaas, where the Afrikaans poet Izak van der Merwe, also known as Boerneef, was born. Ten generations of Van der Merwes have farmed here, and you can visit the homestead, provided you made an appointment. Call 023 317 0040 or email info@boplaas1743.co.za. Around 6 km after Boplaas, you get to the farm Houdenbek. If the name sounds familiar, that’s because the author André
P Brink’s novel Houd-den-bek deals with the Bokkeveld slave uprising of 1825. Across the road from the Houdenbek guest house is a packhouse and office (S32.96318 E19.43038). Check in and ask if you may take the Winkelhaak Road. You’ll almost always get the green light, unless there’s a good reason why the road is closed. It takes you over private land, over the Winkelhaak Pass, and through two access-controlled electric gates. The last gate is on the farm Winkelhaak – remember, it’s good manners to say “thank you”. Also: never speed on a farmer’s land! You eventually rejoin the R303 regional road and turn left in the direction of Ceres (S33.18453 E19.33105). The fifth mountain pass is the Gydo Pass, named after the mountain that’s part of the Witzenberg range, and this is the mountain you now descend, into the Warm Bokkeveld. The Gydo Pass has long sweeping turns and, during harvest time, you’ll encounter many a heavily loaded truck on its way to the Cape Town harbour with fruit for export. The next town is Prince Alfred Hamlet, named after Queen Victoria’s second son, who visited here in 1860 on his tour of the British Empire. Follow the last street as you exit the town – Sarel Cilliers Street – to the left (at the sign that says “Edenvue”). This road takes you to the top of the Warm Bokkeveld, first over the Theronsberg Pass on the R46 regional road, followed by the Hottentotskloof Pass. Both mountain passes pale by comparison to the Gydo Pass, but they do offer beautiful views of the Warm Bokkeveld’s deciduous orchards. About 30 km after leaving Prince Alfred Hamlet, be on the lookout for the Matjiesrivier road sign (S33.25941 E19.62111). Turn right here on the BoSwaarmoed Road. When you see the
Drive over the Bo-Swaarmoed Pass, past the Matroosberg Private Reserve, which is known for its 4x4 snow route
old slave bell next to the dirt road after 4,5 km (S33.27261 E19.64267), you know you’re on the right track. The Swaarmoed Road takes you along the lower edge of the Warm Bokkeveld, past Matroosberg (2 249 m), next to the Seweweekspoort Peak (2 325 m) in the Swartberg – the highest peak in the Western Cape. Drive over the Bo-Swaarmoed Pass, past the Matroosberg Private Reserve, which is known for its 4x4 snow trail – we reported on this in the August 2020 issue – and then past the Klondyke Cherry Farm, which is just as popular during the cherry-picking season in November and December. The ninth and final mountain pass on the route is the Swaarmoed Pass with its view of the town of Ceres – and this is where the route ends. There you have it! Winter or summer, whatever the weather, the Bokkeveld never disappoints. It’s a fantastic alternative to the Boland wine route, which gets overrun by tourists during the holidays.