Grow your own peas
The delicious flavour of these veggies makes their short season well worth waiting for
To fully appreciate the flavour of fresh peas at their absolute peak, there is no better way but to grow them yourself. You’ll have to wait for next winter, though, to try it.
Peas (Pisum sativum) are among the oldest cultivated vegetables, having – since earliest times – been dried, soaked and used as a basic source of nourishment. They have only been enjoyed fresh since the 13th century, after achieving fashion status among Italian gourmets – who, by the way, prefer to poach them in stock.
Bursting a pod of homegrown peas and savouring them like vegetable Smarties is a joy that’s guaranteed to secure their spot every year in your winter and spring veggie garden. Their delicious, sweet flavour makes their short season in spring well worth waiting for.
Yet peas are also a “feeder crop” that provides soil with a much-needed supply of nitrogen. Once harvesting is done, dig the vines and roots back into the soil, where they will decompose and enrich the soil with nitrogen for crops that will follow.
The unfortunate fact about these green pearls being in season right now is that the timing has been overshot for planting your own this year. I personally don’t think it’s worth buying them “fresh”. At best they’ll have been picked several days earlier – whereas frozen peas, which Nigel Slater accurately describes as “a dependable delight that seldom varies in sweetness or flavour”, are delivered straight from the field to the freezer within a few hours of harvesting and consequently have a far superior flavour.
Peas belong to the legume family, of which the predominant groups are peas, beans and lentils. Aside from cereal crops, legumes are among the most widely grown and consumed foods for humans, since no other group of plants is equally rich in protein or as economically cultivated.
The term “peas” covers several varieties: those with fat pods, which are only eaten once they’ve been shelled (so-called “shelling peas”), those with plump pods, which are eaten whole (sugar snaps), and those with flat pods, which are also eaten whole (mangetouts).
Practical matters
The right spot and soil Peas prefer a cool and moist climate and a spot for growing in full sun – but won’t mind some afternoon shade, particularly in warmer areas. According to Jane Griffiths, the plants will stop producing pods when temperatures rise above 25°C. Peas also prefer a well-drained fertile loam. They will get by in most soils, though – but if it’s a fantastic crop that you’re after, incorporate plenty of organic matter into the soil. Adding manure is not recommended: you’ll get plenty of encouraging growth but a disappointing crop of peas.
The right time Sow seeds directly in the ground, 3 cm–4 cm deep, allowing roughly 10 cm between plants and at least 30 cm between rows. To ensure a long, steady season and to avoid a glut, sow them in succession, a fortnight apart. Rather sow in excess, to be sure of having enough backup in the event of birds or slugs getting over-excited.
Pea seeds should germinate within 7–20 days, but sprouting can be >
accelerated by soaking the seeds in warm water the night before planting.
In Gauteng, the Free State and Limpopo, and on the Highveld, sowing time is July to September. Gardeners in the western Free State, Northern Cape and North West should sow in July and August; those in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands in June or July; and those in the Eastern Cape and Little Karoo from May to July. Sowing time in the Western Cape is from April to August; and veggie gardeners in Mpumalanga and the KwaZulu-Natal Lowveld and coastal areas should do so between March and June.
Support Certain pea varieties can reach a height of 2,5 m and therefore require some support to keep them upright and for their tendrils to cling to – a multibranched twig stuck into the ground beside the plant, a sheet of netting, or even an existing fence will do. Make sure the supports are in place before you sow. The plants themselves create shady spots that are ideal for growing radishes and lettuce.
Care and watering Peas need plenty of moisture but do not tolerate wet feet. Never let your plants dry out, especially when flowering – but be equally careful of excessive moisture, particularly during germination, when cold, wet soil can cause the seeds to rot. Overhead watering can lead to mildew.
Good and bad companions Aromatic herbs, nasturtiums, beans, lettuce, carrots, cucumbers, maize, potatoes, radishes and turnips will happily keep company with peas, but keep the Allium family – onions, garlic, leeks, chives and shallots – well away.
Pests and problems Peas are susceptible to mildew in wet winter areas. Aphids love peas too, especially when spring has sprung.
It’s harvest time!
Most peas can be harvested about 12 weeks after planting, although the timing will fluctuate according to the variety and growing conditions. It is important to pick them at their peak – and regular picking will encourage more pods to form. Mangetout should be harvested much earlier, about 7–10 days after flowering, while the pods are still flat. Harvest other types of peas once the pods are filled but before the seeds mature and become tough and woolly (which should still be suitable for mushy peas).
The plants will continue to grow and produce as long as temperatures remain cool.
Remember to eat your peas as soon as possible after harvesting, as the sugars begin turning to starch from the moment they are picked.
It is not only the peas that you want from your plants: the side shoots and growing tips will add a succulent sweet crunch to any salad. They are also a pleasure eaten just as they are. The flowers can be used in salads too, but bear in mind that every flower is a lost pea pod. SOURCES Tender: Volume 1: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch by Nigel Slater (Fourth Estate,
2009) and Jane’s Delicious A–Z of Vegetables by
Jane Griffiths (Sunbird Publishers, 2017)