10 THINGS TO DO
1 Appreciate the view.
Generally, the Kruger is fairly flat and there are only a few lookout points where you can take in the scale of the place. There are two koppies in the south where you’re allowed to get out of your vehicle: Shirimantanga (where James Stevensonhamilton, the first warden of the Kruger – his Tsonga name was Skukuza – and his wife Hilda’s ashes were scattered) and Mathekenyane Hill. Both are about 15 km south of Skukuza rest camp. Mathekenyane is the only place in the park where you have a 360-degree view.
Other great lookout points include Nkumbe, north of Lower Sabie on the H10, and Tshanga near Bateleur bushveld camp in the north of the park. The view from both rivals the opening scenes of a Planet Earth episode.
Olifants wins the rest-camp-with-a-view award. It’s high on a hill and overlooks a wide bend in the Olifants River. There are two lookout points 8 km away with scenic river views: N’wamanzi next to the H1-4 and Olifants next to the S44 towards Letaba.
2 Pull over at a low-water bridge.
It’s not always possible to spend time on a low-water bridge, especially in peak season when there are lots of vehicles in the park, but if you can, pull over and watch.
You can park on the riverbank at the lowwater bridge over the Tsendze River just west of Mopani. One time, traffic was held up here by two crocodiles, three hamerkops, a green-backed heron, a yellow-billed stork and a grey heron all at once!
If you turn onto the low-water bridge just south of Lower Sabie and look to the right, you’ll see a spot where the water flows over some rocks. There are often birds going about their business here, with a crocodile or two as a bonus.
The Biyamiti low-water bridge runs along a weir. You can watch birds and animals at eye level – great for photographers.
If you spend a few nights near a low-water bridge, like at Balule satellite camp near the bridge over the Olifants River, you’ll often see the same animals and birds every day.
3 Go on a night drive.
It’s always a treat to be in the veld after dark. These game drives depart after sunset. Try to get a corner seat in the back of the game-viewing vehicle – the guides often ask passengers seated there to hold a spotlight. Now the search begins: The spotlights slowly sweep over the dark landscape… Maybe you’ll see a genet trotting across the road, a hyena relaxing on the sunbaked tar, a herd of zebra on high alert or even a chameleon on a branch (we did).
Two hours later, you’ll return to camp with a head full of eyes glowing in the dark.
Cost: From R285 per adult; half-price for children under 12; no children under 6.
4 Relax, it’s Lake Panic.
The hide at this dam about 7 km from Skukuza is always a good place to see animal action. Drive here as soon as the gates open in the morning and scan the mud flats and big trees at the water’s edge. There’s even a strategically placed tree stump in the water in front of the hide, where African darters like to dry their wings and malachite kingfishers perch to look for breakfast.
5 Stay at Balule.
Experience how the park must have been in days gone by at this small satellite camp with only six huts, dating from the 1930s. The huts have no windows – only vents covered in wire netting – but they’re cooler than you’d expect in the summer months.
There’s no power either, but there’s gas for hot water in the communal bathrooms, and gas freezers. When night falls, the camp caretaker brings oil lamps to light up each hut.
Cost: R620 per night for two people, plus R190 per extra adult and R95 per extra child.
6 Find a Pel’s fishing-owl.
A lifer for many birders, Pel’s are rare in the park, except for a few places along the Olifants River and in the Pafuri region in the north. Olifants rest camp offers a guided river walk. When you book, specify that you want to see one of these special owls. The guides know where they like to hide out in the high canopy. Dennis Mokoena, head guide at Olifants, says visitors see owls four out of five times! (I was out of luck. There were two African fish-eagles circling during my walk, which meant no fishing-owl would show its face.)
Cost: River walk at Olifants R365 per person.
7 Explore Pafuri.
In the far north of the Kruger, the reddish brown Luvuvhu River
Day visitors: R110 per adult; R55 per child; free with a Wild card.
Contact: The phone number for each rest camp is listed on the website if you have specific questions. For reservations: sanparks.org; 012 428 9111
meanders past huge jackal-berry and cluster fig trees that lean in from the banks. The river also flows past a fever tree forest to Crook’s Corner, where it meets the Limpopo at the border of South Africa, Mozambique and Zimbabwe. You’re allowed to get out of your vehicle here.
The birdlife in the Pafuri region is exceptional. It’s the southernmost range for many Afro-tropical birds that are common north of the Limpopo, but rare in South Africa. Look for mottled spinetail, Böhm’s spinetail, black-throated wattle-eye, African finfoot, thick-billed cuckoo and broadbilled roller, among other specials.
8 Sleep in a hide.
You won’t get closer to nature than a night spent in the Shipandani or Sable bird hides. Shipandani is next to Mopani and Sable is close to the Phalaborwa gate. You’re allowed to enter the hide half an hour before the gate closes and have to leave within half an hour after the gate opens in the morning. You can only book the hide for one night and you have to be self-sufficient. Each hide has beds, a braai and a pit toilet.
Cost: R895 for two people, plus R370 per extra person (sleeps six or nine).
9 Drive through the poor man’s Serengeti.
The S50 east of Mopani rest camp runs along the course of the Nshawu River and passes three waterholes. Head north and turn left onto the S143. This route cuts through open plains where you’ll see big herds of buffalo, zebra and tsessebe – you could easily pretend you’re in Tanzania.
10 Hike a backpacking trail.
The Kruger offers guided routes for every kind of hiker, from short morning outings to overnight trails. If you’re fairly fit, you can do one of the longer four-day backpacking trails: The Mphongolo, Lonely Bull or Olifants. This is the best way to experience the Kruger on foot. You’ll be accompanied by two rangers and you sleep in the veld. You also have to carry a backpack with everything you’ll need. After two days, you’ll wish you could keep going forever… Cost: R3 475 per person.
For an overview of the accommodation options in the park, turn to page 123.