KWAZULU-NATAL
UKHAHLAMBA DRAKENSBERG PARK
This park forms the Maloti-drakensberg Park World Heritage Site, together with Sehlabathebe National Park in Lesotho. The Drakensberg is vast and has no shortage of activities (hiking, rock climbing, fishing, swimming, rock art, horse riding, mountain biking…) but you’ll probably end up on a stoep just staring at the view!
DO THIS: Once you’ve stood on the edge of the Amphitheatre at nearly 3 000 m in altitude, South Africa’s other mountains seem rather trivial! Go and do the hike to the plateau from the Sentinel parking area in the Royal Natal section – it takes about seven hours in total. Try not to get disheartened by the state of the road to the parking area, and the fact that you now have to go up the Gully because the chain ladders haven’t been maintained in decades… It’s all worth it. The view will stay with you forever.
Daily conservation fee: Most sections of the park: R50 per adult; R25 per child; free with a Wild card.
ACCOMMODATION:
Garden Castle: Camping (no power) R80 p.p. Cobham: Camping (no power) R80 p.p.
Kamberg: Chalets from R800 p.n. for two people. Lotheni: Camping (no power) R100 p.p. Chalets from R580 p.n. for two people. Cottages from R1 530 p.n. for four people.
Highmoor: Camping (no power) R85 p.p.
Giant’s Castle: Lodge from R3 000 p.n. for four people. Chalets from R975 p.n. for two people (breakfast included).
Injisuthi: Camping (no power) R120 p.p. Chalets from R800 p.n. for two people. Cabin from R1 180 p.n. for four people. Safari camp unit from R450 p.n. for two people. Monks Cowl: Camping (no power) R110 p.p; with power R120 p.p.
Didima: Chalets from R1 050 p.n. for two people.
Royal Natal: Thendele – chalets from R900 p.n. for two people. Cottages from R2 950 p.n. for four people. Lodge R3 850 p.n. for five people. Mahai and Rugged Glen campsites – camping (no power) R140 p.p; with power R150 p.p.
*Overnight hiking huts not shown here.
Where? The park encompasses most of the high Drakensberg along the border with Lesotho.
Contact: 033 845 1000 (central reservations);
kznwildlife.com
ISIMANGALISO WETLAND PARK
When you pitch your tent at Cape Vidal or Sodwana, it’s easy to imagine you’re somewhere further north in Mozambique. The Indian Ocean is warm and clear, and you share the empty beaches with nesting sea turtles, crabs, birds and the odd fisherman. The inland part of the reserve is as wild as the Kruger – maybe you’ll be lucky and a leopard will appear like a ghost then vanish into the bush again.
DO THIS: Female leatherback and loggerhead turtles lay their eggs on the beaches between St Lucia and Kosi Bay in November. About two months later, the hatchlings cross the beach to the sea. Several operators offer tours to see the turtles – visit isimangaliso.com/activity/turtle-tours
Daily conservation fee: Maphelane and False Bay: R45 per adult; R27 per child under 12. Eastern Shores and Cape Vidal, umkhuze, Western Shores and Charters Creek: R51 per adult; R37 per child under 12. Sodwana Bay: R23 per adult; R19 per child under 12. Coastal Forest: R28 per adult; R16 per child under 16. Kosi Bay: R55 per adult; R28 per child under 12. Additional vehicle fees and community levies apply in some sections.
ACCOMMODATION:
Maphelane: Camping (no power) R105 p.p. Log cabins from R680 p.n. for two people.
St Lucia estuary: Camping (with power) from R115 p.p.
Cape Vidal: Camping (with power) from R150 p.p. Log cabins from R1 690 p.n. for three people. Bush lodge from R3 650 p.n. for six people.
False Bay: Camping (no power) R80 p.p; with power R90 p.p. Cabin (sleeps four) from R160 p.n. umkhuze: Mantuma Resort – chalets from R1 000 p.n. for two people. Huts from R650 p.n. for two people. Safari camp from R840 p.n. for two people. Cottages from R1 200 p.n. for two people. emshopi Campsite R105 p.p. umkhumbe Camp from R1 430 p.n. for four people. Nhlonhlela Bush Lodge R3 780 p.n. for six people.
Sodwana Bay: Camping (no power) R95 p.p; with power R105 p.p. Log cabins from R860 p.n. for two people.
Kosi Bay: Camping (with power) from R120 p.p. Chalets from R820 p.n. for two people.
Where? On the far north coast of KZN.
Contact: 064 867 3232 (Whatsapp); isimangaliso.com
HLUHLUWEIMFOLOZI GAME RESERVE
The R618 tar road cuts this reserve in half – Hluhluwe is in the north and imfolozi is in the south. The reserve is known for its white and black rhino and it’s also home to lions and elephants.
DO THIS: Both sections offer guided walks in the veld for R310 – 315 p.p. (no children under 13) and game drives for R750 for two people.
Daily conservation fee: R125 per adult; R65 per child; free with a Wild card.
ACCOMMODATION: Hluhluwe: Hilltop rest camp – rondavels from R760 p.n. for two people. Chalets from R1 400 p.n. for two people. Mthwazi Lodge from R5 700 p.n. for six people.
imfolozi: Mpila rest camp – safari tents and self-catering units from R1 150 p.n; the tents and units sleep two, four, five or seven people each.
Masinda Lodge from R3 900 p.n. for six people. Gqoyeni Bush Lodge from R6 400 p.n. for six people. Nselweni Bush Lodge from R1 450 p.n. for two people. Hlatikhulu Bush Lodge from R5 250 p.n. for six people.
Where? About 75 km north-west of Richards Bay.
Contact: 035 562 0848 (Hluhluwe); 035 550 8476 (imfolozi)
DLINZA FOREST NATURE RESERVE
This forest is a must if you’re a keen birder, with specials like eastern bronzenaped pigeon, purple-crested turaco and spotted ground-thrush. Dlinza is part of the Zululand Birding Route, which includes other indigenous forests like Ongoye and Ntumeni, and small reserves like Amatikulu.
DO THIS: The Dlinza Forest Aerial Boardwalk is 125 m long and 10 m high and takes you through the canopy. It leads you to a deck 20 m above ground from where you can look out over the forest surrounded by birdsong. You can also hire a bird guide to accompany you – free, but book beforehand.
There are two other routes, Impunzi (1,3 km) and Unkonka (1,8 km), to walk as well. Keep your eyes peeled for the tiny blue duiker.
Daily conservation fee: R40 per adult; R10 per child.
Where? Kangela Street, Eshowe
Contact: 035 474 4029
WEENEN GAME RESERVE
A thornveld reserve in the KZN Midlands where you can see rhino, giraffe, kudu, eland, grey duiker and hyena.
DO THIS: Bring your binos and bird book and spend some time next to the waterholes at the Ufudu and Mpofu hides.
Daily conservation fee: R50 per adult; R25 per child; R50 per vehicle; free with a Wild card.
ACCOMMODATION: Camping with no power from R100 p.p; with power R110 p.p.
Cottage from R550 p.n. for two people – book directly. weenen@kznwildlife.com
Where? About 10 km west of Weenen.
Contact: 087 150 2356
VERNON CROOKES NATURE RESERVE
Vernon Crookes is like Oribi Gorge, but smaller and not as busy. (And without the gorge. – Ed.) Coastal grassland and forested areas support a wide variety of animals. You can see zebra, wildebeest, blue duiker and mountain reedbuck.
DOTHIS: The reserve is a great birding spot – more than 300 species have been recorded here. You can see specials like grey crowned crane, groundhornbill, and secretarybird.
Daily conservation fee: R40 per adult; R20 per child; free with a Wild card.
ACCOMMODATION: Hut from R450 p.n. for two people. Tree house (sleeps seven) from R920 p.n. for four people.
Where? About 25 km inland from Scottburgh.
Contact: 033 845 1000 (reservations)
ITHALA GAME RESERVE
This wild reserve covers a few steep hillsides and valleys that drain towards the Phongolo River. Ithala has a population of about 250 elephants, but you’ll be lucky to see them as they keep to the thickets. Giraffe, zebra, eland and kudu are plentiful and easy to spot. While most roads are fine for 4x2s, it’s best to go in a 4x4.
DOTHIS: Just before sunset, leave Ntshondwe Camp and take the first left out of the camp gate. Follow this road for 1,3 km to Mgamgela viewpoint. Sit on the deck and take in the scenery.
Daily conservation fee: R70 per adult; R35 per child; free with a Wild card.
ACCOMMODATION: Doornkraal camping (with power) R200 p.p. Bush camps from R1 750 p.n. for three people; R650 p.p. extra. Two-bed chalets at Ntshondwe Camp from R1 100 p.n. for two people. Ntshondwe Lodge from R4 000 p.n. for five people.
Where? About 10 km north of Louwsburg.
Contact: 034 983 2540
NDUMO GAME RESERVE
Despite facing a range of existential threats including poaching, and the fact that large parts in the east of the park have been settled by subsistence farmers, Ndumo remains a unique wilderness offering. This far-flung corner of South Africa feels like somewhere in Zambia and is worth a visit for its incredible birding opportunities. You can also visit nearby Tembe Elephant Park on a day outing.
DO THIS: Take at least two guided birding walks (R180 p.p.) – one to the fever tree forest next to Inyamithi Pan and another to the sand forest, where you might see the rare and wondrous African broadbill.
Daily conservation fee: R55 per adult; R25 per child; free with a Wild card.
ACCOMMODATION: Camping (with power) R150 p.p. Chalets from R1 000 p.n. for two people.
Where? About 103 km north of Mkuze.
Contact: 060 878 5014
EZEMVELO KZN WILDLIFE BOOKINGS
All rates listed are valid until 31 October 2022. Reservations for Spioenkop, Oribi Gorge, Weenen, Midmar, Vernon Crookes, Ithala and Ndumo can be made with the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife central reservations office ( 033 845 1000) or online at bookings.kznwildlife.com
TREAT YOURSELF NAMBITI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE
Situated in a historically significant place called Elandslaagte, many battles of the Anglo-boer and Anglo-zulu wars were fought in the vicinity of the present-day reserve. It’s home to the Big Five and about 40 other game species, including giraffe, hyena, hippo, zebra and kudu.
The reserve has nine independently owned luxury lodges. Only four offer activities for day visitors, depending on availability:
The Springbok Lodge: Do a three-hour game drive with snacks included (Sunday afternoon to Friday morning). R485 p.p. 036 637 9604;
thespringboklodge.co.za
Lions Valley Lodge: A morning or afternoon game drive with breakfast or lunch costs R650 p.p; minimum four people. 036 637 9605; lionsvalley.co.za Nambiti Plains Game Lodge: A three-hour game drive in the morning or afternoon is R550 p.p. for up to four people. 071 680 4584;
nambitiplains.com
Umzolozolo Lodge: A three-hour game drive costs R550 per adult; R300 per child older than 4. The rate includes snacks and one beverage; minimum four people. 031 579 3870; umzolozolo.com
Where? Nambiti is about 30 km north-east of Ladysmith.
ZIMANGA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE
When photographers close their eyes at night, they dream of a reserve like Zimanga. The focus (literally) is on wildlife photography, and the reserve has nine purpose-built hides where you can train your lens on everything from small birds to big cats.
Zimanga has a range of packages. For example, on a three-night visit, you can stay at Zimanga Main Lodge, go on three game drives, and have three hide sessions – one at the birdbath hide, one at the lagoon hide and one at the vulture hide.
They’re already fully booked for 2022, but you can send an e-mail to be put on a waiting list and enquire about specials for South Africans. Prices on request.
Where? About 8 km north of Mkuze.
Contact: reservations@zimanga.com; zimanga.com