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Camp in Dou­ble Mouth Na­ture Re­serve near Mor­gan Bay.

Re­mem­ber that silly “Dou­ble rain­bow” video that did the rounds a few years ago? Well, at Dou­ble Mouth you can ex­pe­ri­ence the river ver­sion: The Quko and KuMqot­wane rivers join up to form an es­tu­ary and both flow into the sea. Tech­ni­cally, this small re­serve is not on the Wild Coast be­cause it’s south of the Kei River. But the vibe is the same: It’s a place to es­cape to if you don’t want crowds, loud mu­sic and beauty pageants on the beach. There are no chalets at Dou­ble Mouth, nor is there a shop, but the camp­site is one of the most scenic you’ll find. The stands are laid out in a semi-cir­cle so they all have a sea view, and there’s a big lawn in the mid­dle where the kids can play cricket. Down at the beach they can catch klip­fish in the rock pools and look for starfish and anemones. At Dou­ble Mouth you can also live out your dream of be­ing an ar­chae­ol­o­gist: A Por­tuguese trade ship called the Santo Espir­ito sank some­where off the coast in 1608. At Bead Beach, about a 20-minute walk down the coast from the re­serve car park, you can look for car­nelian beads and shards of Ming porce­lain that were part of the ship’s cargo. Check the tides be­fore you go be­cause you have to cross the mouth of the es­tu­ary. Where can I hike? From Bead Beach, you can con­tinue to Haga Haga (about 9 km from Dou­ble Mouth). Or head up the coast from the camp­site and hike 4 km to Mor­gan Bay. The lat­ter trail winds along cliffs with ex­pan­sive views of the coast­line. Squint a lit­tle and you could be on the Cliffs of Mo­her in Ire­land. What else? You can fish on both sides of the es­tu­ary. Get a per­mit from a post of­fice (the clos­est one is in Ken­tani) and cast a line for mus­sel­cracker and ka­beljou. You can also bring your moun­tain bike and ride the trails around the camp­site. Fa­cil­i­ties & rates: The camp­site has 30 stands, each with a tap, power point and braai (max six peo­ple per stand). Rates from R238 per stand. Con­ser­va­tion fee R11 per adult per day; R6 per child. Nig­gles? Not much. Bring a ground sheet be­cause the grass is patchy in the camp­site thanks to the trees. The beach in front of the camp­site is peb­bly – if you want to lie on the sand you’ll have to walk about 500 m around a kop­pie. Where? About 4 km south of Mor­gan Bay. The re­serve is ac­ces­si­ble in any ve­hi­cle. More info: 043 492 0883; vis­iteast­ern­

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