DAY 5 10 km

go! - - Hike Wild Coast -

Tshani to Cof­fee Bay

We sit out­side and feast on vetkoek, pap and scram­bled eggs. Sheep graze next to the hut. In the dis­tance, a truck rum­bles past. We pass one last fam­ily ho­tel typ­i­cal of the Wild Coast, the An­chor­age Ho­tel, and walk along an­other de­serted beach. We cross the Mthatha River by boat and hike over the hills to­wards Cof­fee Bay. I watch a woman stomp­ing her laun­dry in a skot­tel while send­ing a What­sApp voice note. Un­der the sign that says “Wel­come to Cof­fee Bay Beach”, we say good­bye to Yongama and the porters. I’m go­ing to miss this place: the cluck­ing chick­ens, the bark­ing dogs, neigh­bours chat­ting among them­selves; be­ing wel­comed with a smile and bread fresh from the oven; cof­fee and tea pre­pared in a pot over the fire; a cold Za­malek… I feel at home here, not just ge­o­graph­i­cally but in my own skin. That’s why I’ll come back to do this trail in a few years’ time – it makes you fall in love with South Africa all over again.

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