1 Die Padstal
No road trip is complete without padkos. At this farm stall near Villiers you can stock up on decent biltong and droëwors (both R289/kg) and fill your cool box with farm-fresh lamb chops and boerewors. Owners Flippie and Elize Lourens also sell home-made ginger beer, fruit juice, preserved products and their Leka Hot chilli sauce (hot enough to knock you off your chair, according to Elize). You’ll find biscuits and rusks on the shelves, too, along with arts, crafts and toys. Manager Jenny Webb speaks the truth: “All you need in life is a little friendliness and lekker biltong,” she says. The best thing about Die Padstal? There’s a branch on either side of the N3 so you can stop again on your way home. Where? At the Engen Vaal 1-Stop on both sides of the N3, just north of Villiers. Opening times: Most days from 7 am to 5 pm; Saturdays until 2 pm. Contact: 082 859 3117; “Die Padstal” on Facebook – Willem van der Berg
2 Engen Bergview 1-Stop
This filling station is an N3 institution – it gets busy during the holidays and over long weekends. There’s a Wimpy here, and a handful of other franchises like Nando’s, Mugg & Bean and Ocean Basket. At the Guinea Fowl Farm Stall you can get jams, preserved goods and raw honey. Buy biltong at Sparkles from R295/kg. Let the kids stretch their legs and visit the farm animals in their pen while you have a coffee. Stay over: Mountain View Inn is on the same premises ( 058 623 0255; mountainviewinn@draadloze. co.za). There are double rooms and a campsite under pine trees. En suite double room from R830 per night; camping R220 per night, plus R30 per adult and R20 per child aged 6 – 12. Good for an overnight stop. Where? About 5 km from Harrismith. Opening times: Monday to Thursday, and Saturday, 8 am to 6 pm; Friday and Sunday 8 am to 9 pm. Contact: 076 127 1675; 058 623 0255; bergview.co.za
BUDGET OPTION 3 Riverview Country Inn, Swinburne
Swinburne is a one-street village east of Harrismith, on the banks of the Wilge River. It’s worth a stop if you’re tired of Wimpy coffee and pies. There was once a railway station here, and a post office, but industry ceased when traffic was diverted to the N3. Life in the village revolves around Riverview Country Inn, an old-world overnight stop. All the rooms open up onto the garden. The Hound & Hare restaurant and pub serves delicious home-style meals at budget-friendly prices (soup of the day R35, chicken schnitzel with chips and salad R60, mixed grill R130). Take a dip in the pool (ask permission if you’re a day visitor), browse the antiques and second-hand books in the Nutty Meg shop across the road, or go and see the old bridge that dates from 1884. If you decide to stay over, hike to the base of Rensburgkop: an easy walk of about 14 km there and back. The owners of Riverview, Steve and Jenni Cleverly, have lots of stories to tell about the village. Pets are welcome. Stay over: En suite room from R450 per person; family room from R750 per night (three beds). Breakfast R60 per person. Where? About 24 km east of Harrismith, take the Montrose Stop exit. Opening times: Inn and restaurant: Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 10 pm; Sunday from 7.30 am to 8 pm. Contact: 058 672 1033; riverviewcountryinn.co.za
4 Green Lantern Inn, Van Reenen
You’re halfway from Joburg to Durban and you’re also at the highest point on the route: 1 768 m above sea level. Van Reenen’s Pass is wide and well built, but it can be deadly when it’s misty or rainy. Be patient and drive carefully. During peak holiday times, as many as 2 000 vehicles use the pass per day. Every year, more than 58 million tonnes of cargo go up and down the pass. Why rush? Turn off to the village of Van Reenen and have a look around. (Coming from Gauteng, turn left at the Star Stop Drakensberg and right into the village.) The town was named after Frans van Reenen, who farmed at the base of the escarpment in the mid1800s. He would move his cattle to higher ground in summer. The railway line arrived in 1891 and the railway station became the focal point of the village. A year later the Van Reenen Hotel opened its doors and so began a tradition of lighting a green lantern in misty weather so travellers would know when they had reached the top of the pass. In 1948, the hotel was renamed the Green Lantern Inn. These days, the inn is owned by Bill and Gail RossAdams and it offers lovely platteland hospitality and space for your kids and pets to run around. Be on the lookout for Bojangles the donkey, who likes to pop into the Halfway Noggin Pub… Call beforehand to book a meal; the menu is available on the website. Stay over: Self-catering and B&B options. Double room with communal ablution facilities R410 per night; R500 with breakfast. Self-catering R445 per person; B&B R490. Where? 7 Wragg Street Opening times: The kitchen is open from 7 am to 8 pm.
Contact: 058 671 0027; greenlantern.co.za
5 Bompas Trading
One block down the street from the hotel you’ll find this treasure trove where you can buy groceries, furniture and clothing. Look for a nice candleholder or a vintage handbag. Where? Wragg Street Opening times: Daily from 9 am to 5 pm. Contact: 058 671 0011; “Bompas Trading” on Facebook
6 Llandaff Oratory
The most famous landmark in Van Reenen is on the other side of the N3: the tiny Llandaff Oratory church, which only accommodates eight people. Apparently, it’s the only privately owned Roman Catholic church in the world. The church was built in memory of Llandaff Matthews, a miner from Dundee in KZN, who died in an accident in 1925 while trying to save his fellow miners. His father Maynard wanted to put up a memorial plaque for Llandaff at the local Catholic church in Dundee, but his request to do so was denied. So he decided to build his own church up in Van Reenen. Maynard later became a priest and dedicated his time to his tiny creation. Have a look at the beautiful stained glass windows. Next door you’ll find the Little Church tea garden and an antique shop where owner Geraldine Johnson will serve you tea and scones, a slice of cake or a home-made stew. She’s also well versed in the history of the village. Opening times: Daily from 9 am to 4 pm. There’s a church service every Sunday at 10.30 am. Contact: 058 671 0106; thelittlechurch.co.za
7 Spioenkop
The Battle of Spioenkop took place over two days in January 1900 – one of bloodiest battles of the Second Anglo-Boer War. There are several monuments at the battle site on top of the hill, and information boards that tell the tale of how the British soldiers stationed at the top made some disastrous miscalculations in misty weather, which led to a horrific number of casualties. Sources differ, but about 320 British soldiers are estimated to have been killed, with more than 500 wounded. The Boer side lost 58 soldiers. Mahatma Ghandi, serving in the Indian Ambulance Corps, was at the battle site as a stretcher bearer. Where? 51 km from Van Reenen. Take the 230/ Bergville exit from the N3, turn right onto the R616, turn left after 4 km and follow the dirt road for about 9 km to the entrance. Opening times: Daily from 9 am to 4 pm. Cost: R35 per adult; R25 per pensioner/student; R20 per child under 12. Contact: 033 3946543; heritagekzn.co.za
8 The Midlands Kitchen
If your kids are picky eaters, don’t worry – you’ll find something they’ll like here. There are two options: Grab and Go if you’re in a hurry or The Food Shed if you’d prefer a sit-down meal. At the latter, a number of kiosks surround an eating area: You can have Mediterranean falafels, a Mexican treat, a gourmet burger, fresh produce from the harvest table, or a pizza (try the one with feta, caramelised onions, avo and mozzarella). There’s good coffee, too. Where? Take exit 132/Nottingham Road. Opening times: The Food Shed is open daily from 6 am to 4 pm; Grab and Go closes at 8 pm. Contact: 033 266 7046; themidlandskitchen.co.za
9 Linga Lapa
This butchery is across the road from the Midlands Kitchen – get some steaks for the first braai of your holiday. At the deli you can buy products from Indezi River Creamery (try the chilli camembert), as well as home-made rusks and fresh vegetables. Opening times: Daily from 8.30 am to 5 pm. Contact: 033 266 7001; lingalapa.co.za
10 Blueberry Café
There’s a lot to say about this cosy eatery, but the bathrooms take the cake. Big windows offer views of the plains: Sit on the throne and watch Nguni cattle grazing in the fields. The building has high ceilings and lots of natural light – an oasis of calm away from the traffic on the highway. Have a slice of cheesecake and a coffee and relax. Where? Netherwood Farm, 8 km from the N3 en route to Nottingham Road. Take exit 132/ Nottingham Road. Opening times: Daily from 8 am to 4 pm. Contact: 033 266 7132; “Blueberry Café” on Facebook
11 Peel’s Honey
The oldest honey brand in South Africa was started in 1925 by Jack Peel, a part-time bee farmer. These days, most of their honey comes from their 7 000odd hives in KZN and the Free State. Visit their factory shop for all your honey needs, including interesting products like macadamia and avocado honey. You can take your own container to be filled if you’d prefer. Check out the special hive behind glass, which allows you to see its inner workings. The kids will love it. Where? 1 Boston Road, Howick. Take exit 99/ Zeederberg Road, turn right into Wilson Road and right again into Boston Road. Opening times: Daily from 8 am to 5 pm. Contact: 033 330 3762; peels.co.za