DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE
In De Hoop Nature Reserve, a freshwater vlei drains into the wild waves of the Indian Ocean. Fields of fynbos flourish next to the white dunes and the rock pools are alive with starfish and anemones.
It might be small, but it packs a punch. Use our guide to explore and relax.
After about an hour on a dusty road from the N2, De Hoop arrives in greens and blues like a splash of cool water. The main entrance is on a hill. As soon as you’re through the gate, the reserve rolls out its fynbos carpet to welcome you. Beyond the fynbos are white dunes and beyond the dunes, a strip of blue sea. I’ve only just arrived and already I feel at home. It’s no wonder De Hoop has become so popular with South Africans and foreign tourists alike. There might not be any lions or elephants, but you’ll see plenty of bontebok, mountain zebra, eland, ostrich – and birds galore. The reserve is 360 km² in size. It’s smallish, manageable. The fynbos is hemmed in by the 20 km De Hoop Vlei to the west, and by the Breede River to the east. The reserve might not go all the way to the Breede, but it does go all the way to the sea – about 40 km of Indian Ocean coastline is protected. De Hoop is not only rich in biodiversity, but also in history. The reserve used to be a farm, first rented from the VOC by a certain Frederick de Jager in 1739. Ownership changed hands many times over the centuries, and most of the old farmsteads are still standing, beautifully renovated, next to more modern facilities. (A highlight is the Melkkamer on the eastern shore of the vlei, which dates from the 1700s and was declared a national monument in 1979.) In 1956, De Hoop became a breeding farm for bontebok and mountain zebra to help grow the populations – there were only 17 bontebok remaining in the wild at the time. The reserve was proclaimed a year later. “It’s a diverse reserve,” says activity manager Dalfrenzo Laing. We’re standing under a sprawling fig tree near the reception office. “There are lots of things to do, but the water is the real drawcard – the vlei and the coast.” Later in the afternoon, I go on a boat ride on the vlei with two guides. A hamerkop watches us from the cliffs and cormorants take off as we approach. The vlei is fed by the Salt and Potteberg rivers. It was declared a protected area in 1976 and is recognised as a Ramsar Site – a wetland of international importance. Cape clawless otters patrol the shallows and 97 waterbird species have been recorded, including flamingo, fisheagle, pelican and many kinds of kingfisher. The best way to see the birds is from a boat, or from one of the cliff trails next to the water.
The protected coastline runs from Die Mond in the west to Cape Infanta in the east. Late in the afternoon, I walk down to the beach from the Koppie Alleen picnic site and viewpoint. I scramble onto a rock shelf that shudders as the waves pound against it. The coast is wild and windswept and glorious to behold. From Koppie Alleen, you can walk 5 km east along the coast to a place called Vaalkrans. Or you can head 8 km west to Die Mond, where the vlei empties into the ocean. Bring your snorkelling gear if you enjoy exploring rock pools – you’ll see limpets, anemones, sea urchins and periwinkles. The Agulhas and Benguela currents meet up about 80 km to the west, at Cape Agulhas, and bring with them an abundance of nutrients. The De Hoop coastline, and 5 km into the ocean, was declared a marine protected area in 1987: no water sports, fishing or ships are allowed. You are allowed to swim, but we’d suggest you only attempt this at low tide because of dangerous waves and currents. There are no lifeguards on duty. And then there are the whales. Between June and December each year, hundreds of southern right whales come to De Hoop to calve. “We call it the whale nursery,” says Dalfrenzo. “There’s no marine traffic. The whales can nurse and raise their calves in peace. In 2018, we counted nearly 560 pairs of cows and calves.” The white dunes that tower over the ocean at Koppie Alleen glow softly pink. The viewpoint is at the top of the highest one – it’s crowded with tourists all trying to get a photo of the whales. So many whales! The silence is almost sacred as we watch the mothers and babies in the water.
De Hoop isn’t enormous – it’s easy to see all the attractions as a day visitor. (This is handy if your budget is tight because the accommodation inside the reserve is pricey.) The only section of the reserve that is offlimits to day visitors is the eastern side, which has an entrance at Potberg. This part of De Hoop is reserved for groups hiking the 54 km Whale Trail, from Potberg to Koppie Alleen. You can do a guided activity – like a hike or a boat trip – or you can explore the dirt roads on your mountain bike. You’ll likely encounter visitors from abroad, especially Germany, the Netherlands and Italy. Indeed, De Hoop has made it onto the international radar and European tourists make up more than half of the annual visitor numbers. It’s my last morning in the reserve. I look out over the vlei one more time. Mist hangs low over the water. It’s so quiet I can hear the beat of a heron’s wings as it flies past. I’m going to miss this place.