All is well in Wellington
Don’t underestimate this Boland town: There’s plenty to discover in the Wamakers Valley, from mountain pools to leather shoes.
“Ilike the heat,” says Olivia le Cordeur, manager of the Wellington Museum. I wipe sweat from my upper lip, struggling to believe her. How could anyone enjoy a November day as hot as this? “It’s true,” she says. “Give me 39 degrees any day!” Only someone born and raised here would say something like that. The town’s not called Hellington for nothing… Did the French Huguenots who settled in the Limiet Valley in the 17th century share Olivia’s sentiments? Well, something must have convinced them to stay. My money is on the view: If you’re looking at the mountains, Wellington is in a bowl created by the Groenberg on the left, the Limietberg and the Slanghoekberg behind and the Seven Sisters of the Hawekwa Mountains on the right. But you don’t have to spend your days gawking at the mountains: Wellington has lots more to offer. Go have a look, but make sure the aircon is on full blast…
Discover the town’s history
You’ll find a little bit of history around every corner in Wellington. The best way to learn more is to explore on foot. Get a free heritage trail map at the Wellington Tourism Centre or download one from their website (see sidebar). The map indicates historical buildings and you can do the walking (or driving) at your own pace. Say hello to the statue of Andrew Murray in front of the Dutch Reformed church at the top of Church Street. Murray was an influential minister who arrived in town in 1871 and went on to establish the Huguenot theological seminary and a Christian training centre for girls and women. Plan your itinerary to include the Wellington Museum (corner of College and Church streets). Care has been taken over the exhibits and they give you a good overview of the town’s development, industries and people. Entrance fee: R10 per adult; R5 per child. Opening times: Monday to Friday from 8 am to 4 pm; book beforehand if you want to visit over the weekend or on a public holiday. Contact: 021 873 4710
… and enjoy the local culture
Tired of walking? Rest on a bench in the lush poetry garden at the Breytenbach Centre (14 Burger Street). Famous lines from Afrikaans poems are displayed everywhere: on mosaic tiles, on the walls, on signs… This cultural centre was opened in 2007, in the house where writer Breyten Breytenbach lived with his parents. The centre offers a range of community projects and often hosts book launches. Order something at the coffee shop, look at the art exhibition on the first floor or buy a ticket for a show in the Bôrdienghuis Theatre. Bookworms can spend hours in The Book Traders shop in the same building: There’s a wide variety of new and second-hand books of all genres. You can find anything from a 1980s-era birthday party idea book to the latest Ian Rankin thriller. Cost: Entrance is free. Opening times: Monday to Friday from 9 am to 5 pm; Saturday from 9 am to 1 pm. Contact: 021 873 2786; breytenbachsentrum.co.za
Get a taste of Wellington
The people of Wellington like to say that all of South Africa’s wine is actually from this fertile valley and in a way, what they’re saying is true: About 85 % of all South Africa’s vineyards are populated with vines that are cultivated here. But the farms in the Wellington area don’t just produce vines – they make great wine, too! The Wellington Wine Route consists of 15 farms, all of which are indicated on the Wine & Dine map, available at the tourism office (see sidebar). Visit Bosman Family Vineyards ( 021 873 3170; bosmanwines.com) to see a 260-year-old cellar and to do a wine tasting under the trees (R50 per person). Book beforehand, especially over weekends. Want to do something more interesting? Drop by Wellington Wines ( 021 864 1582; wellingtonwines.com) and try their Duke and donut tasting: R60 per person for four wines from the Duke series, served with four mini donuts. At Imbuko Wines ( 021 873 7350; imbuko. co.za) you can do a wine and gourmet pie tasting (R70 per person) or a Pomüla Pop tasting (R30 per person). Pomüla is a combination of white wine and pomegranate or berry juice, with a fizz – perfect for a summer’s day. There is also a big lawn and a jungle gym. Don’t leave without some home-made jam (from R43).
Shop around
Leather shoes at Redemption When you mention to your colleagues that you’re going to Wellington, there’s a good chance someone will ask you to pick up a pair of Redemption shoes for them. This leather factory and shop is an institution in town and it has been in business for more than 40 years. “I don’t have any statistics, but I’ve heard enough to know that we’re a tourist attraction!” says Nicolaas Slabber. His parents Arnold and Nicolette bought Redemption in 1982. All their products are handmade in the factory, mostly by people from the local community who were trained by Arnold. “We buy raw materials that don’t look like they were made in China or by a robot,” Nicolaas says. “There are more than enough shoes made with that kind of stuff. We make shoes that will last a long time. Some people may say that ours isn’t a good business model, but we believe it’s what makes our clients so loyal.” Don’t expect a mall-sized shoe store: Redemption is a factory first, then a shop. On busy days you might have to queue outside, but once you’re in you can choose from a range of velskoens, sandals, belts and handbags. Ask for advice when you try on a pair – shop assistants like Leonore Cloete (11 years at Redemption) and Jacky Jennike (18 years at Redemption) know what they’re talking about. Where? Altebly Farm, corner of Hill Road and Church Street. Opening times: Monday to Friday from 8 am to 5.30 pm; Saturday from 8 am to 1 pm. Contact: 021 873 3197; redemptionleather.com Prunes at the Safari Dried Fruit Shop Johan Viljoen worked for the old South African Dried Fruit Co-operative (SAD), which later became part of Pioneer Foods, for 32 years. “After I retired in 2014, I bought the shop from Pioneer Foods,” he tells me. “The shop had been open for more than 30 years – I gave it new life.” Buy pre-packaged nuts and dried fruits, or weigh your own. (“You can take two peanuts or 20 kg of peanuts,” says Johan.) The big prunes are delicious (R12,50/100 g) and so are the yoghurt-coated dates (R10/100 g). Where? 23 Main Road Opening times: Monday to Thursday from 8 am to 5 pm; Friday until 4 pm; Saturday until 12.30 pm. Contact: 021 100 3953
Ride your mountain bike
Pieter van Wyk from Wild Boar Trails started to develop mountain-biking trails at the base of Bainskloof Pass about a decade ago. Many children in the area call him “die paadjieman”. The first trails were laid out on Welvanpas Farm; over time, these were extended to other farms as well. There are currently more than 70 km of marked trails. “The diversity of the area makes the trails unique,” Pieter says. “There are sections through mountain fynbos, through renosterveld, plantations, across rivers and on the slopes of mountains. Sometimes it feels like you’re in the Swartland; ten minutes later it’s like you’re in Knysna!” Don’t zone out while you’re riding: Leopards, caracals, wild pigs and small antelope have been seen by bikers. How does it work? Wild Boar Trails is based at Val du Charron Estate. There’s an office (near the Pizza e Vino restaurant; follow the signs) where you can pick up a trail map and pay for your permit. The map indicates the distances, difficulty ratings and route profiles of the trails. Most visitors should be able to complete the 26 km Porcupine Loop; the 45 km Wild Boar Loop is for more experienced riders. Cost: A permit costs R70 per day: Pay at the office at Val du Charron (off Bovlei Road). The office is open from 7 am in summer and you can pay with a card or cash. If you want to start earlier, you can pay using Snapscan. What else? You can hire a mountain bike from Adventure Cycles (7 Marchand Square; 021 873 7434): R250 for half a day; R350 for a full day. Hire a helmet for R50 per day and a bike carrier for three bikes for R200 per day. This bike shop also has Wild Boar pamphlets with information about the trails. More info: wildboartrails.co.za
Hike in the mountains
When scenery was handed out, Wellington was first in line. You can get a good overview of the landscape if you drive the historical Bainskloof Pass, built by Andrew Geddes Bain in 1853, but if you want to zoom in on the details and appreciate the fynbos, do one of the hiking trails in the Limietberg Nature Reserve. Look for Cape batis and Cape sugarbirds and take a plunge in a mountain pool. Now you’re in the Boland! The Bobbejaans River Trail (9 km there and back; about six hours) follows a tributary of the Witte River. Park at Eerste Tol on Bainskloof Pass and follow the trail from the UCSA campsite. After about 3,5 km, turn left off the trail to swim in the mountain pools before you walk the last steep section to a waterfall. If you’re doing the hike in summer, look for red disas on the cliffs next to the river. The Rockhopper Trail (8 km in one direction; about six hours) is for those who want to hike along the river all day, with some adventure thrown in. As the name implies, you have to hop from rock to rock and swim through pools as you follow the river from Eerste Tol to Tweede Tol (or the other way around). Cliffs tower over you on both sides and you’ll feel very far away from the hustle and bustle of town. Arrange for someone to meet you at the Tweede Tol picnic site to take you back to your vehicle at Eerste Tol. Get a map. The Limietberg Nature Reserve hiking map indicates these two trails, and six others. Download the map at capenature.co.za or get one at the Tweede Tol office. Cost: Hiking permit R40 per adult per day; R20 per child. Buy your permit at the Tweede Tol office ( 021 808 5121) or at the CapeNature booking office ( 021 483 0190; reservation.alert@capenature.co.za).