THINGS TO DO
Go for a hike
You can stroll along the beach or the lagoon at several places, or you can do a variety of day hikes. The Bakoor Trail starts at the Langebaan gate and ends 4,6 km further at the Seeberg viewpoint. If you’re lucky, you’ll see a bat-eared fox along the way.
There are two circular routes that start at the Geelbek Visitor’s Centre, a 9 km hike to the fossilised dunes at Duinepos, and a 7 km route through the strandveld to 16 Mile Beach and back.
Or you can book a place on Eve’s Trail, a slackpacking route that’s a longer version of the above over two and a half days. Cost is dependent on the size of the group and the time of the year. Contact trails@capebiosphere.co.za or 076 696 5354. In August and September, you can hike the Steenbok Trail in the Postberg section. No more than 20 people are allowed on this 14 km day hike at a time. Book at the Geelbek Visitor’s Centre:
022 707 9902/3. The same applies to the twoday Postberg Trail (27 km), where no more than 12 people at a time are allowed on the hike. You carry your own tent and you camp at Plankiesbaai. In 2019, it cost R82 per person to hike the Steenbok Trail and
R142 per person for the two-day route. New rates for 2020 will be announced in June.
Ride your bike
It’s a special privilege to ride a bicycle in one of our national parks, and here you can exercise your legs and lungs on a good tar road. It’s 30 km from the Langebaan gate to Geelbek and back, and 70 km from the gate to Kraalbaai and back all along the lagoon.
There are also two scenic mountain-bike routes in the park: a 13 km circular route around Seeberg, which you can extend to 30 km by including the loop to Mooimaak. Park at Geelbek and enjoy an ice cold draught beer (R35) after your ride.
Watersports
The lagoon is divided into three zones. In Zone A to the north, from Schaapen Island to Preekstoel, you can sail, paddle, waterski, dive, snorkel and fish (with the proper permit). In Zone B in the middle, no motorised craft or fishing is allowed, but you can sail and paddle. In Zone C, south of Churchhaven to Geelbek, no water-based activity at all is allowed.
EAT HERE
If you don’t feel like making your own food, Geelbek Restaurant is not only a good option, but the only option in the park. The original Cape Dutch farmhouse has been beautifully renovated – you can eat inside or at the back in the garden. There are two bird hides within walking distance from the restaurant. The prices are steep and clearly aimed at tourists: Expect to pay R160 for a burger and chips.
STAY HERE
DUINEPOS CHALETS
There are 11 self-catering cottages in the veld near the fossilised dunes. Each cottage can sleep between four and six people, and there’s a communal swimming pool and a play area for the kids.
Rate: From R680 for two people sharing. 022 707 9900; duinepos.co.za
ABRAHAMSKRAAL
This old farmhouse is far from everything and everyone, except the bird hide at the Abrahamskraal waterhole (walking distance).
The house has been restored and sleeps six people comfortably. Rate: From R1 715 per night in low season. 022 707 9902; sanparks.org
VAN BREDA
This former workers’ cottage has been restored and is within walking distance of Geelbek Restaurant and the two bird hides close by. It has three bedrooms and sleeps six people.
Rate: From R1 715 per night in low season. 022 707 9902; sanparks.org
STEYTLER
This tiny, one-bedroomed cottage sleeps two people. It’s next to Van Breda and thus also close to Geelbek. This might not be the right place for you if you like to braai and enjoy your privacy.
Rate: From R1 265 per night in low season. 022 707 9902; sanparks.org
JO-ANNE’S BEACH COTTAGE
This big, relatively modern house has three en suite bedrooms and good braai facilities. It’s close to Churchhaven, with beautiful views and within walking distance of the lagoon. It’s a popular choice, so book early.
Rate: From R2 810 per night in low season. 022 707 9902; sanparks.org
JO-ANNE’S B COTTAGE
We stayed here. This wellappointed two-bedroomed cottage might be right next door to the bigger Jo-Anne’s, but you still have your privacy and it offers the best value-for-money accommodation in the park. Beautiful views from the stoep (with a built-in braai) means you don’t have to move if you don’t want to.
Rate: From R1 715 per night in low season. 022 707 9902; sanparks.org
KRAALBAAI HOUSEBOATS
Start saving now for a special anniversary, then splash out on one of the three houseboats anchored in Kraalbaai. It’s a lot more affordable in low season, but then you’ll be toying with the Cape weather.
Guests are transported to their houseboat from the jetty at Kraalbaai by boat, and picked up again at pre-scheduled times. The Larus and Serenity sleep six each; the massive Nirvana is the party boat and sleeps 22 people.
Rates: From R1 900 per night in low season for the Larus; R2 500 for the Serenity; R9 800 for the Nirvana. 076 017 4788; kraalbaailuxuryhouseboats.com
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
The West Coast National Park is about 120 km north of Cape Town on the R27. From September to March, the park gates open at 7 am and close at 7 pm. From April to August, the gate closes an hour earlier, at 6 pm.
The Postberg section is only open during August and September. The Postberg gate opens at 9 am and closes at 5 pm. Fees: Conservation fee R64 per adult; R32 per child per day; free with a Wild card. In August and September it costs R90 per adult and R45 per child.