PORTFOLIO
Island life on Zanzibar, under moody tropical skies.
Zanzibar might be part of Tanzania politically, but in reality, it’s a world of its own – a slice of coral and palm trees caught in the current of history that has swept up the East Coast of Africa for hundreds of years. Stone Town – the old half of the capital, Zanzibar City – is the cultural epicentre of the island, a labyrinth of alleyways, crumbling Arabian architecture and sad echoes of slavery. The rest of the island is ringed by holiday resorts, the fanciest of which are in the north-west around the town of Nungwi.
On the opposite side of the island, life is humble and more rural – visitors can experience Zanzibar at a gentle pace. In the fishing villages of Jambiani, Paje and Bwejuu on the south-east coast, the Swahili mantra of pole, pole (slowly, slowly) still rings true.
Once restrictions had eased after the Covid-19 lockdown in 2020, documentary photographer Jac Kritzinger travelled to Zanzibar and spent some time under moody tropical skies.
As the tide rises at dawn, a fisherman from the village of Jambiani sets out for his dhow – a traditional East African fishing boat. The reef in the distance shelters this part of the coastline, resulting in an almost otherworldly calm. The fishermen mainly keep to the lagoon on the inside – on the other side, sharks and powerful waves await.
How? Nikon D610, 85 mm lens, shutter speed 1/80 second, aperture f1.4, ISO 50.
While mainland Tanzania has a mix of religions, Zanzibar is almost entirely Muslim. You’re never too far from the call of a muezzin and most women and girls wear headscarves. This young girl smiles for a portrait in front of her house in Jambiani – she had just finished sweeping the front yard with her makeshift broom.
How? Nikon D610, 85 mm lens, shutter speed 1/400 second, aperture f1.4, ISO 50.
A visit to the east coast of Zanzibar is not complete without a bonfire on the beach. A deep pit is dug in the sand and drummers gather in a circle around the flames, their rhythms carrying far into the night. With the full moon rising behind the clouds, a young man gets the festivities going on a balmy island evening.
How? Nikon D610, 35 mm lens, shutter speed 1/30 second, aperture f2, ISO 1 250.
Sky-blue election posters for Tanzania’s ruling party, Chama Cha Mapinduzi (CCM), decorate a construction site on the outskirts of Paje, the biggest village in south-eastern Zanzibar. Most posters feature Hussein Ali Mwinyi, the current head of Zanzibar’s semi-autonomous government, but right in the middle is the late president of Tanzania itself, John Magufuli, who died of Covid-19 in 2021. Tanzanian authorities have published scant data on Covid infections and their vaccination plans remain murky.
How? Nikon D610, 50 mm lens, shutter speed 1/200 second, aperture f2.2, ISO 50, with an off-camera flash fired via remote.
Women collect seaweed on Jambiani Beach as a thunderstorm rolls in from the west. Along with fishing, seaweed harvesting is one of the main sources of income for villagers on the southeast coast. The seaweed is dried in the sun and used in local dishes; some of it is also exported to be used in health and beauty products abroad.
How? Nikon D610, 20 mm lens, shutter speed 1/50 second, aperture f8, ISO 200.