TRAVEL JOURNAL: EUROPE – PART 2
On their 18-month trip of a lifetime from France to South Africa, Patrick and Marie Gurney head into Eastern Europe, looking for castles, bears and berry wine.
The Gurneys camp their way through Slovenia, Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria.
We left Croatia in August 2018 and arrived in tiny Slovenia – about the size of the Kruger Park – where our first impression was that it was extremely tidy. We drove through pristine-looking villages full of traditional Alpine chalets and bright flower boxes.
Our first destination was Postojna Cave, where a mini train took us underground for 3,7 km through lit-up halls and galleries. We even saw the famous “Baby Dragon”, a type of aquatic salamander called an olm. Olms, we were told, can live up to 10 years without food and have a lifespan of 100 years! Our admission ticket also included a visit to the beautiful Predjama Castle, which is perched halfway up a towering cliff and partially built into a cave. Slovenia only has one national park, but when it’s as spectacular as Triglav, the country really doesn’t need any more. Triglav is famed for its crystal-clear glacial river systems that descend from the Julian Alps. The drive there took us along the exquisite Soča River to Bovec, a small town known as the country’s adrenaline capital. It was still late summer in Europe so we kayaked and hiked and tried out Europe’s longest zipline: 4 km in total, with the longest single line at 650 m.
Using the park4night app we found a wild (i.e. unofficial) camping spot right on the Soča River. It was crazy beautiful! But we weren’t the only ones there… Three other campers had also parked, and in the morning we were woken up by a policeman. He was intrigued by our rooftop tent, the South African number plates on the Hilux, and our 18-month itinerary.
“You are driving to where?” he asked with a massive grin.
“Africa!”
He just shook his head. “You can go, but the others must pay the fine – they know the rules.”
It was a valuable lesson learnt: Always find a quieter spot if possible, something we would perfect over the coming months. This time we dodged a R550 fine.
A road trip through Slovenia is not complete without tackling Vršič Pass, which is also in Triglav National Park. Nicknamed the “Russian Road”, it was built by 10 000 Russian prisoners of war in 1915. The pass is 20 km long and gains 1 600 m in elevation along 50 hairpin bends – they’re numbered so you can keep track of your progress. With an average of one hairpin per 500 m travelled, our Hilux – nicknamed Kukuza – was taking strain. I loved the deft road construction with nail-biting drop-offs, but Marie wasn’t as enamoured. She kept wondering how quickly she’d be able to open the door and dive out…
Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, was calling. Because the country is so small, it meant we were only 80 km away. En route, we stopped at Vintgar Gorge where 1,6 km of suspended wooden walkways take you deep into the narrow valley.
Next was the charming town of Bled with its lake and island church. It was hot, so we took a dip (with a few hundred other swimmers), then we had a quick lunch followed by coffee and the local culinary treat – Bled cream cake, a delicious flaky pastry with custard and cream.
Arriving in hip Ljubljana, we chanced upon Odprta Kuhna, a buzzing street-food extravaganza where top chefs share their latest creations every Friday. Then we checked into a pricey Airbnb for two nights. (In general we found Slovenia to be the most expensive country on this leg of the journey.) We met the owner who gave us the keys, a cup of kava (coffee) and a customary shot of snops – moonshine with a 40 % alcohol content. (It was barely 9 am…) After seeing the poor state of our room, I went back to the bottle for another throatstripping experience.
Expense aside, Ljubljana had an arty, laid-back feel. We visited the Metelkova – a cluster of ex-Yugoslavian military barracks that squatters took over in 1993. The state has been trying to tear it down for years but to no avail. Today it houses youth organisations, art institutions, bars and coffee shops.
We were heading to Hungary next, and then Romania. Sitting in a kavarna (coffee shop) in Ljubljana researching the latter country, I came across a website describing a huge cultural festival near Prislop Pass, which would take place in a week’s time. We’d have to rush through Hungary if we wanted to make it…