TAKE A HIKE
Forest-bathing in the Karkloof
We all know that spending time in nature is a balm for stress and, for me at least, nowhere is quite as tranquil and magical as a forest. One of my favourites is the Karkloof Forest, a patch of mist-belt loveliness about 20 km north of Howick in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands. Mistbelt forests are generally found on the cooler, southern-facing slopes of hillsides throughout the Midlands, and are a wonderland for bird-, treeand nature-lovers alike.
Our hike begins close to the Karkloof Canopy Tour office. The start of the trail is marked by an actual “green door”, which serves as your metaphoric portal into the forest world.
There are a handful of trails to choose from, all of which begin here and are clearly marked on a board. As you walk, you’ll see signs indicating turn-off points for each loop. In ascending order of length and difficulty, they are: Caracal Trail, Woodcutter’s Trail, Waterfall Walk, Giant’s Ridge and Giant’s Top.
I’m with my family and we’re looking for something that caters to all fitness levels, so we settle on the Woodcutter’s Trail, a 2 km climb and descent that should take about two hours. It’s worth noting that this isn’t your typical hike because you’re not trying to cover a lot of distance. Slow and steady does it, especially if you’ve picked a wet day to walk… The path makes its way up a crease between two hills. A stream trickles down and most of the trails zig-zag up and across the river all the way to the top of the hillside. Every now and then we pass a platform where zipliners stop before zooming off down the valley, whooping and shouting in excitement (or distress).
Today, the forest is still. After 200 m, we cross a foot bridge and begin what can only be called a sharp and muddy ascent. We scramble up a set of wooden stairs and thereafter have to rely on ropes and tree trunks to hoist ourselves up the slippery path. About 500 m in, I take my first slip to uproarious laughter. Two minutes later it’s my sister’s turn, followed by her husband and my dad. It isn’t as treacherous as it sounds – we chose a wet day to walk and were told in no uncertain terms by the lady at reception that if it rains, we should embrace it as part of the experience.
That being said, part of the fun is finding new and exciting ways to scramble up the gorge; learning to rely on your senses again and focusing entirely on one footstep after the next.
As we climb, I’m reminded of the Japanese term shinrin-yoku, which means “forest-bathing”. The idea is to immerse yourself in a forest’s atmosphere as a kind of ecotherapy: Witness the sunlight trickling through the leaves, listen to the damp earth absorbing your footsteps, breathe in deeply and allow yourself to literally “bathe” in the forest’s tranquillity.
This isn’t difficult. Soon you’ll be crossing a beautiful stream and drinking the coldest, clearest water on earth. With crisp air in your lungs from the climb, and mud on your butt, you’re a world away from everyday life.
Pause by the river and listen for buff-spotted flufftails and purple-crested turacos. If you’re very lucky, you’ll hear a Cape parrot, but sightings are rare.
We set off up the valley once more and marvel at the yellowwoods and stinkwoods towering above. The turning point of our walk is at a tall blue gum tree about 1,2 km up the gorge. An alien, I know, but thankfully the only one we’ve seen.
We were told that it’s tradition to hug the blue gum before descending, and that’s what we do.
As we pick our way down the hill again, I’m struck anew by the beauty of the forest: the silver slivers of mist snaking around the trunks, the blue duiker darting through the trees, and the abundance of growing things, lichens and climbers, everything in the forest striving towards the sunlight.
At the base of the hill, we branch off to do the Wellness Walk, a short 500 m loop aimed at facilitating mindfulness. It follows a little stream on the edge of the treeline and has lots of benches to sit and contemplate life.
Every hundred metres or so is a wooden sign with a quote about nature. I take a seat and mull over one of my favourites, a stanza from a poem by Lord Byron: There is a pleasure in the pathless woods, There is a rapture in the lonely shore, There is a society where none intrudes, By the deep Sea and music in its roar: I love not Man the less, but Nature more
Opposite page: Ropes are a big help on the ascent of the Woodcutter’s Trail – especially when it’s muddy. Clockwise from left: This “green door” leads you into the forest. Inspirational signs punctuate the Wellness Walk. The forest stream is clean enough to drink. An old strangler fig.
Distance: The Wood Cutter’s Trail is a 2 km loop and takes about two hours to complete. The most challenging trail is Giant’s Top, which is a steep 5 km route that ascends 480 m.
Where? The turn-off to Karkloof Canopy Tours is on the Karkloof Road, about 18 km north of Howick.
When? KZN experiences high rainfall in the summer, so expect some mud from September through to February. This is also when the waterfalls in the valley are at their fullest, so embrace the rain and the mist as part of the experience. In winter, you can expect less water and drier paths.
Cost: R80 per adult and R50 per child. Pay at the office; open daily from 8 am to 3 pm. Contact: 033 330 3415; 076 241 2888; canopytour.co.za