EASTERN CAPE

Districts like Graaff-Reinet, Nieu-Bethesda, Cradock, Dordrecht, Jamestown and Molteno often get snowfall, but it’s the southern foot of the Drakensberg – around towns like Lady Grey, Barkly East and especially Rhodes – where you have the best chance of seeing snow.

RHODES

Lorinda Reeders from Cape Town writes: I grew up in the Rhodes district, on the farm Monard outside town. When it snowed, my siblings and I would build a snowman in front of the garage door so my mother couldn’t get the car out to take us to school! I also remember special winter dishes, like leg of lamb with baked quinces and Ideal milk for dessert.

When I was little, I always thought my friends from Joburg had so much more than me, but now I realise how privileged I was to grow up in Rhodes. It really is the most special place in the country.

My parents, Hénri and Sandra, bought the Rhodes Hotel in 2020.

The building dates from 1888 and it hadn’t been in use for years. They renovated the place; my mom is creative and really enjoyed decorating the hotel. She loves antique furniture – every room has its own look. The history of Rhodes is preserved in the hotel, with displays of old photos and books. My dad can keep you busy for hours with stories from the district!

Follow Rhodes Hotel on Instagram: @rhodeshotel1888

Dave Walker from Rhodes writes: I’ve been in the area since 1990, at first along the Bokspruit and since 1995 in the village itself, where Susan Koelz and I run Walkerbouts Country Inn & Pub. Walkerbouts was built adjacent to the original homestead on the farm Tintern, which Rhodes was established on in 1897.

In its previous life, the inn was a family home and also served as the school hostel for a while in the 1970s. In 1995, I moved in and set up what was really just a glorified backpacker lodge – one bathroom and four bedrooms. Later, I bought the property and renovated it over the years. We now have seven en suite rooms and a sunroom where up to 60 people can dine.

Besides our good trout waters, many guests come here to see snow in winter. There’s always much excitement initially, as relatively few South Africans have seen proper snow. On day two, people are out and about enjoying the spectacle – some drive up to Tiffindell ski resort and I’ve even seen some “don’t try this at home” stuff, like folk on snowboards being towed behind vehicles! By day three, however, the euphoria starts dissipating as the cold and slushy roads become a reality. Then guests start agitating to go home again. If the road is open, of course… That’s when you bring out the Old Brown Sherry.

In the 1990s, it felt like snow fell every couple of weeks during winter, but climate change has had its effect and we get much less these days. However, the high peaks along the escarpment like Ben MacDhui (3 001 m) and Scobell’s Kop (2 737 m) generally get dusted every winter.

The gravel roads up to Naudé’s Nek Pass and Carlisleshoek are great for getting close to the snow – if the roads are passable. The plateau between Naudé’s and Tiffindell is a real treat for the eye when it has snowed properly.

STAY HERE

Rhodes Hotel

The rate is R850 per person, which includes breakfast and a fourcourse dinner! The Reeders family owns the hotel and farms in the district. Guests can fly-fish, swim and braai – enquire at reception. Where? In the middle of the village.

Contact: 065 651 3837; rhodeshotel.co.za

Walkerbouts Country Inn & Pub Dave Walker and Susan Koelz run this self-proclaimed “Centre of the Universe”. Their restaurant offers tasty meals, and a tall story is always just an arm’s length away in the Thankshjalot Pub… They have comfortable rooms; rates from R550 per person sharing, including breakfast. They also run a handful of self-catering cottages in the village (R280 – R350 per person sharing). Kids under 12 get a discount.

Where? As you enter Rhodes from Barkly East, turn right for Walkerbouts Inn.

Contact: 045 974 9290; bookings@walkerbouts.co.za