Gourmet (South Africa) - - CONTENTS -

It’s that time of year again. Leaves are com­ing off trees, heavy cast-iron pots are hauled down from dizzy heights in bil­low­ing clouds of dust, the Big green egg is wheeled away for its an­nual hiber­na­tion in the store­room and there’s a gen­eral sense of win­ter lock-down. Let’s just say that go­ing out is not high up on any­body’s agenda right now. But it should be.

Take the three big restau­rant open­ings in Chang­ing of the (Food) Guard (page 62), where we in­tro­duce five young chefs who are chang­ing the way we eat. There’s a com­mon thread to the way they are cook­ing: there’s an un-fussi­ness on their plates. and our cover by Cor­nel Mostert and Cyn­thia rivera of Mul­berry & Prince is a case in point: strac­ciatella is es­sen­tially a de­con­structed ball of bur­rata, but here it’s given cen­tre stage, served sim­ply on smoky br­uschetta, the creami­ness of the cheese off­set by the earth­i­ness of beet­root jus.

As if that’s not in­spi­ra­tion enough, turn to Ris­ing Star (page 20) and read about wun­derkind Ben orkin, a 17-yearold, school-go­ing, food-in­sta­gram­ming gi­ant of his time. he pho­to­graphs food (which, I might add, he makes and bakes him­self) on his iPhone in his bed­room while his peers are chasing rugby balls – and girls – around grassy parks.

Yes, longevity is im­por­tant in the world of food, but so is the tang of the new stuff, which is why we are in­tro­duc­ing the Gourmet Restau­rant Awards this year (page 74). here, we will be hon­our­ing both the es­tab­lish­ment and the new guard.

If you ab­so­lutely must lock-down this win­ter, do so in your kitchen and put that newly dusted cast-iron casse­role to good use with a slow roast from Rule the Roast (page 50). I’m smit­ten with the seafood en Brodo fea­tur­ing a tar­ragon pesto that has just the right amount of lemony sharp­ness to bal­ance the rich broth of ver­mouth, saf­fron and fen­nel bulbs.

happy read­ing. and happy eat­ing – whether you’re stay­ing in or din­ing out.

Fol­low us on @GourmetMagSa and @gourmetmagsa

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