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Karin’s pruning tips

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START SMALL

• Plant small shrubs so that you can manipulate them into the desired shape from the get-go. A large plant can be used if it is isolated and suitable for clipping into the required shape.

• Repeat one type of plant in groups or rows, preferably in uneven numbers. Then it will look like a more natural grouping from all sides and not like a row of plants.

• The distance between plants is determined by how quickly they grow, their growth habits and the look you’re ultimately going for. A group of slow-growing plants that need to form a tight shape should be planted closer together than a fast-growing plant such as dune crowberry.

SHAPES

• Keep it interestin­g by using different shapes. Ball shapes are popular but also consider spirals, columns, tortoise shapes and circular discs for a bit of variety.

• Tortoise shapes are easier on the eye and not as formal as ball shapes. Star jasmine works well for this purpose. Push the plant’s long stems into the ground using wire bent into a hairpin shape and prune regularly – the sides into the shape of the shell and the top into a convex shape.

• Prune the tips of cones, spirals and columns into a rounded shape, otherwise they’ll look too hard and formal.

PRUNING

• Use the right equipment. A small battery-powered hedge trimmer is a good investment. A large pair of garden shears also works well; just make sure they are always sharp. Pruning topiaries with ordinary secateurs is not recommende­d.

• Prune regularly so that the shrub stays in the desired shape and to prevent it from getting bare stems and woody growth at the bottom. I start pruning as soon as the shrub is planted, unless it already has a naturally rounded shape; the slow-growing forest num-num is a good example of this and needs very little pruning.

• Prune more often in summer. The more you prune, the smaller the leaves and the sturdier and denser the shrub.

• View the plant from all sides. I walk around it and trim all over until the shape is symmetrica­l. Perfect forms don’t happen overnight; it takes time to master the art. Keep practising – the plant will grow back if you make a mistake! Use wire mesh as a guide to help you prune neatly. Adjust the size of the wire as the shrub grows. As you become more proficient, the wire won’t be as necessary. For a softer look, cut the edges rounder rather than in a box shape.

• While pruning, place a tarpaulin under the shrub – this saves you a lot of time and effort as you don’t have to pick up the trimmed leaves afterwards. Simply tip the trimmings onto the compost heap afterwards.

 ?? ?? A large surface area with pebbles or paving can be softened with topiaries. In addition, the shrubs in-between make the area cooler. A checkerboa­rd pattern with pavers looks lovely when interspers­ed with topiaries, while a row of trimmed shrubs between the gravel adds life to an otherwise monotonous surface. White pebbles are beautiful but tend to show up dirt sooner, cautions Karin.
A large surface area with pebbles or paving can be softened with topiaries. In addition, the shrubs in-between make the area cooler. A checkerboa­rd pattern with pavers looks lovely when interspers­ed with topiaries, while a row of trimmed shrubs between the gravel adds life to an otherwise monotonous surface. White pebbles are beautiful but tend to show up dirt sooner, cautions Karin.

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