THE ADVENTURES OF TANK AND NEMO
“RYAN, WITH RESPECT, WHY ARE YOU OFF-ROADING WITH ONLY ONE HAND ON THE WHEEL?” THIS IS MY CLEAREST MEMORY OF NAMIBIA: OUR PHOTOGRAPHER AND RESIDENT OFF-ROADING NOVICE – ALTHOUGH HE WON’T APPRECIATE ME SAYING THAT – WAS AT THE WHEEL OF THE TOYOTA PRADO (PET NAME: “TANK”) AS WE DRIFTED ALONG THE FAMOUS SAND-BAR OFF THE COAST OF WALVIS BAY.
Tank was a soldier. She managed pretty much every task we asked of her, which even included winching Nemo (the BMW X2 who also came along for the ride) out of the very deep and very coarse coastal Namibian sand.The adventures of Tank and Nemo could warrant a novel, but we don’t have the time or budget to recount the entirety of their Namibian journey, so let’s rather stick to the abridged version – a short story, if you will.
Tank and Nemo first met in Cape Town – a When Harry Met Sally kind of moment. Their headlights met across a Brackenfell car park and Nemo followed Sally – I mean Tank – all the way to the northern-most shores of Namibia. Through mostly shine, and not a whole lot of rain, Tank and Nemo carried four wanderlust-filled journalists on the adventure of a lifetime.
BORDER CROSSING
After nearly 10 hours on the road, and many, many pit stops, we arrived at the Namibian border and I must say, it was pretty breezy – not weather-wise (it was hotter than Paarl in January), but rather the border crossing was quick and simple.Tank and Nemo, still following each other totally smitten, trundled along to Grünau. I’m from rural England, so I’ve seen small towns, but this one was another story. Welcomed by the smiley owner, we just about managed a beer and – through fear of retribution – pretended to
be avid Bulls fans. After we’d left the rest of the guests thoroughly unimpressed with our Afrikaans abilities, we all headed to our rooms and promptly collapsed in heaps on our beds. Not even the mosquitos could wake us up.
ON THE ROAD AGAIN
The next morning – some showered and shaved, others sandy and dirty – we carried on up the African continent and through the ever-changing landscape of Namibia. For a multitude of reasons, you must never sleep on the road in Namibia – especially if you’re driving. As a passenger, if you close your eyes for just five minutes you’ll open to a completely different, and equally impressive view. Creeped out by a mountain that I swear to this day was following us,Tank and Nemo pushed on – by now probably looking forward to a wash, not to mention a rest from the infotainment system blaring Marilyn Manson.
The second stop in the Adventures of Tank and Nemo was Swakopmund, and the Strand Hotel, a haven for four weary souls and two car lovers. Not lovers of cars, but cars in love, that is.
This is where the trip took a decidedly luxurious turn, rain showers and all. Decked out in our exceptionally fluffy robes, we vegetated for a good few hours while Tank and Nemo enjoyed a good wash. Later that night we dined at the Brewer & Butcher, one of the hotel’s inhouse restaurants. The Ocean Cellar and the Farmhouse Deli were also open, but as we were in an historically German area, we decided that a Weiss beer was needed accompanied by as much “curryworst” as they would give us. As full as a butcher’s dog (or so my Granddad would say), we collapsed into a deep slumber.
Breakfast at the Strand is served at the Farmhouse Deli, and it’s the kind of breakfast that makes it totally normal to inhale 17 pancakes, three bowls of melon and eight cappuccinos in one sitting. Perhaps the most telling sign is that, for the first time on the trip so far, none of the driving party mentioned food until well after 14h00 – an extremely rare occurrence for Ryan, the off-roading novice and food waste-disposal system.
Luckily for Tank and Nemo, Walvis Bay was only half an hour from Swakopmund and soon they were resting by the seaside once more. While we enjoyed a cappuccino al fresco, they luxuriated in the sun.
SAND, SAND & MORE SAND
Our next resting point was the stunning Pelican Point Lodge off the coast of Walvis Bay. Located on a sand bar, it comes complete with Cape fur seals, jackals and lots of birds. This was where Tank and Nemo came
into their own. With Tank charging on ahead, and Nemo following in her wake, both arrived safe and sandy at the unique venue we were to call home for the next few days.
Formerly a lighthouse, a lodge extension was added and it became one of the best places to stay in the whole of Namibia. I spent pretty much every morning watching the sun come up, while wrapped in my blanket and tapping away at my computer – writers need inspiration, and this place had plenty. Our days were spent cycling to the actual Pelican Point, which was a whole 16 km trip, while Tank and Nemo sat recovering from their slog to get us here.
Their slog wasn’t over though, because on our first evening there, Tank and Nemo were treated to a real adventure – getting stuck in the sand. We’re talking big-time stuck. First to fall was Tank. The poor girl got bogged down and Nemo leaped at the chance to help, until he too faltered and found himself locked in a sandy prison. Unbeknownst to half the party, who were happily sipping wine and nibbling on canapés in the warm lodge, the other half toiled for hours to free our story’s heroes. Succeed they eventually did – but not without the lodge staff ’s help, along with about six shovels.
Sandy and tired,Tank and Nemo started their long trek back to their home town – only to be separated once back in their familiar haunts. Not all love stories have a happy ending, but at least both of them – as well as us – will always have Namibia, and the amazing memories of our adventures there.
The second stop in the Adventures of Tank and Nemo was Swakopmund, and the Strand Hotel, a haven for four weary souls and two car lovers. Not lovers of cars, but cars in love, that is.