//WHERE THE FISH DON’T ALWAYS BITE – BUT YOU WILL
“DO YOU HAVE SUNGLASSES?” ISAAC ASKED ME. IT SEEMED AN ODD QUESTION AT 08H00 ON A VERY OVERCAST MORNING. WE HAD KNOWN EACH OTHER FOR ABOUT AN HOUR BY THEN, THOUGH, SO I TOOK IT AS A SIGN OF THE USUAL “WE-DON’T-KNOW-EACH-OTHER-BUT-LET’S-SHOOT-THE-BREEZE” TYPE OF CONVERSATION. “YES, BUT NOT WITH ME,” I REPLIED. HE FUMBLED AROUND IN HIS JACKET POCKET AND PULLED OUT HIS OWN PAIR, HOLDING THEM OUT TO ME. “HERE, TAKE MINE”. I MUST HAVE LOOKED CONFUSED BECAUSE HE GLANCED AT MY FISHING ROD AND SAID SHYLY: “I DON’T WANT YOU TO LOSE AN EYE”. AND JUST LIKE THAT, MY ROMANTIC VISIONS OF ME FLICKING MY FLY FISHING LINE RHYTHMICALLY BACKWARDS AND FORWARDS IN A GRACEFUL MOVEMENT À LA A River Runs Through It, WERE WELL AND TRULY DASHED.
That said, if you are going to try your hand at fly fishing for the first time, you can’t go wrong by heading to that South African Mecca of all things trout, Dullstroom. And for an excellent teacher, ask for Isaac Mngwenya, who works at Walkersons Hotel & Spa, long a bastion of those seeking a place to throw a line in, or to soak in some peace and quiet.
We had nothing (fishy-related) to show for our hour-long lesson with Isaac when we finally wound up our lines. But everyone knows that fishing requires patience and time. And besides – as Isaac very generously allowed us to believe – we reckoned the trout in our particular dam (of which Walkersons has many) had been around the pond quite a few times and could spot a fisherman coming a mile off.
It hadn’t dampened our spirits though, especially as we knew we had a delicious breakfast waiting for us at the hotel, followed by a day to do whatever our hearts desired.
A GREAT GETAWAY
We started off by reserving our spots for some afternoon pampering at the spa, before going for a leisurely stroll around the estate to walk off our breakfast Hollandaise. As we did, we marvelled at the lush green surroundings which made the newly autumnal colours of the plane trees stand out in beautiful contrast. We spied those elusive trout blowing bubbles in the water and said hello to the horses and the ducks that we met along the way. We also looked at the beautiful houses on the surrounding hills and tried to decide which – if we had the means – we would like for our own.
As well as the hotel,Walkersons also has a number of plots for private development for those who want to make their holidays away a more permanent abode. If you can’t afford your own house, there are also a number of self-catering cottages dotted
around that are perfect for a weekend away with family or friends.
We had nabbed Canyon Cottage, part of the Walkerson’s hotel offering, which is a secluded gem down its own private road, with forest on one side and undulating hills on the other, overlooking its own little dam – complete with the sound of rushing water as it gushed down into the river below. With five rooms (and four bathrooms), Canyon Cottage can easily accommodate up 10 adults, plus a bunch of kids with the addition of camp cots, or littlies who don’t mind crashing on the sofas. Heaters and electric blankets will keep you warm on chilly winter evenings – as will the fireplace in the cosy lounge – while the neighbouring dam ensures a cooling breeze on hotter days.The large kitchen has everything you need to cook up your own feasts, plus there’s a braai outside. But there is also the option of eating at either of the hotel’s two dining options: the more informal terrace restaurant, and the smarter Flying Scotsman. Dinner at the latter – thanks to its heavenly food – is an ideal way to cap off your trip.
If you run out of your own foodie supplies, the little town of Dullstroom is a short drive away. Plus, it’s a destination in its own right, and deserves at least an afternoon of wandering dedicated to it.
FOR DINING IN & OUT
Antique shops, galleries and quaint cafes are the order of the day here, as are those wickedly tempting farm stall-type shops bursting with homemade jams and marmalades, rusks, biscuits and sauces – approach with caution if you’re watching your waistline! The bar at Wild About Whisky purportedly has one of the largest whisky collections in the southern hemisphere, including bottles from the usual Scottish and Irish stalwarts, as well as “new world” offerings, from the US toTaiwan and Japan. Make a point of signing up for a tasting, and then wander through to the shop to take a bottle or two home with you. And if you are not a fan of the amber liquid, they also have an impressive collection of gin, plus a few other spirits.
Once you’ve walked out with a bottle of something from the Scottish Highlands under your arm, swap allegiances to something thoroughly English and seek out Mrs Simpson’s (+27 13 254 0088) for a bang up lunch or dinner.
Mrs Simpson herself is not a local epicurean lady, as one might expect, but rather refers to the Mrs Simpson of the American divorcé abdication scandal fame. Once you get over the initial surprise that clearly not everyone dislikes her, it’s hard
not to be swept up in the fun of the place. Large portraits of Wallace grace the bright orange walls, along with an impressive collection of period high heels, evening dresses and other Britannia knick-knacks. Far from the usual royal stuffiness though, the place has a relaxed and cosy vibe, which makes it a popular spot (so be sure to make a reservation). The food is also superb – I highly recommend the mussel pot – so be sure to come hungry.
After our feast with Wallace, we headed back to Canyon Cottage to nurse our food comas on the expansive sofas with cups of tea and our books, before retiring for an afternoon nap. It really is the most wonderful way to spend any afternoon.
So if you’re looking for a quiet spot to get away from the world and be surrounded by silence and nature, pop Dullstroom on your list. And when you’re there, be sure to go fishing with Isaac – he’ll make sure you don’t lose an eye. Which is just as well, because you’ll need both to absorb all of the beauty surrounding you.
For more information, please call +27 13 253 7000 or visit www.walkersons.co.za.