HUNTING KNIVES
Your choices are endless
SSOME OF US see knives as utensils – tools that are meant to graft hard for their owners, tools that you don’t want, or need, to baby. For others knives have value that extend beyond their usefulness in the field. They are treasures (or pieces of gentlemen’s jewelry) that are often taken out, admired, debated over and passed along from one generation to another. Many custom-made knives fall in that category – they are so pretty or valuable (read expensive) that their owners simply won’t use them. Any rifle, knife, hatchet or whatever utensil designed for outdoor use that is too pretty or expensive to use, will not find a place in my collection (unless it was bought as an investment).
I am often asked to suggest a ‘perfect’ or ideal hunting knife and that is difficult. The choice of a knife is personal. There are good knives, bad knives and ugly knives but there are no worthless knives.
THERE ARE BASICALLY five things that determine the functionality of a knife: blade shape, blade steel, blade length, handle material and balance. For many, price is a very important factor so first decide on the amount you are prepared to spend, and then see what is available in that price range. Those who hunt only once or twice a year might
not want a top of the range, expensive knife. If you hunt a lot and actually use your knives, then you could invest in a top-quality product. A hand-made custom piece can be very expensive but it will not cut any better than factory knives – the difference lies in pride of ownership.
Next you need to consider what the knife will be used for – slitting a buck’s throat, gutting and skinning, general work in camp, or all of this? Most South Africans never touch an animal with a knife because the field dressing, skinning, caping and the cutting up of the meat are done for them. For them, basically any hunting knife that feels ‘right’ will do.
FOR THOSE WHO who do use their knives, here are a few tips. If you regularly hunt birds and small antelope, a big knife is not required. And even if you hunt bigger game, a Bowie-type survival knife with a 10-inch blade is generally too much knife. Those knives only work well in Hollywood and Crocodile Dundee films. You can easily skin an eland with a four-inch blade. You don’t need a big survival knife because most local hunters are accompanied by a PH and/or tracker, game scout or the game farm owner. There simply is no need to cut down trees or build shelters.
Should you choose a fixed-blade hunter or a folder? Both have pros and cons. Fixed-blade knives are stronger because the blade and tang consist of a single, solid piece of steel. Due to their design, folders are more prone to breakage. A fixedblade knife is easier to clean and a folder more difficult due to its moving parts – there are many nooks and crannies where dirt and blood can enter. Folders are less bulky and easier to carry and also safer to handle and transport. A fixed-blade knife needs a sheath and if the latter rides too high on your belt, the hilt of the knife will poke you in the ribs every time you sit down.
I think a mid-size folder that fits into a trouser-pocket will serve many hunters just fine. However, for some, this can feel uncomfortable and they may prefer to use a beltpouch. I regularly use dual- or multi-bladed folders for their versatility. A lock-blade folder is probably preferable because it will prevent accidental closing of the blade which can lead to nasty injuries.
The overall design of the knife is important. If you’ll be using the knife regularly and for lengthy periods, the ergonomics of the handle is of vital importance. It must sit comfortably in your hand and you must be able to grip it firmly. Any sharp edges or finger grooves that are too pronounced on the handle can be a problem. A handle with rounded edges is much easier on the hand during prolonged usage. Avoid handles that taper too much towards the rear end. Logic wants to tell you that your little finger is shorter than the others therefore the handle should be thinner and smaller in diameter towards the end, but it does not work for all people – a handle that is slightly fatter towards the end provides a firmer grip for the little finger. Try different designs to find your preference.
FOR A GENERAL-PURPOSE hunting knife, the drop-point blade design is hard to beat. It makes gutting easy, will do for skinning and is good enough for cutting up veggies or meat, peeling an orange, cutting ropes or whatever. It does not really matter whether the blade has a hollow or flat grind – the latter provides a stronger blade but so far, I haven’t broken any of my hollow-grind blades.
I see no need for a gut hook on a knife, it is not essential and spoils the look of a knife, but it is a feature that some people like. Some gut hooks are difficult to sharpen, some are too small and I think they are just in the way when you use the knife for any task other than ripping open a buck’s belly.
If the balance between handle and blade is uneven, the knife will not handle well. Many people prefer wood as handle material for its looks, but it is more prone to cosmetic damage than bone or synthetic material. If not properly sealed, wood will absorb water and blood which can be damaging. Laminated wood impregnated with resin is popular for handles and works extremely well. Just clean it immediately after use with a damp cloth and you won’t have any problems.
Most users prefer stainless steel blades, though carbon steel has a following, but, like Damascus steel which
looks pretty, carbon steel requires regular maintenance to keep rust at bay. The industry benchmark in stainless steel is 440C but many knife makers use N690, D2 or Sandvik 12C27 which is more affordable and regarded by some as an entrylevel steel for custom knives. Most owners don’t use their knives enough to appreciate the difference in hardness or quality of the popular knife steels. Some steels are harder than others and more difficult to sharpen. The harder the steel the longer the edge will stay keen. However, if you are not adept at sharpening blades or don’t like doing it, and don’t use your knives for prolonged jobs, a softer blade that sharpens easier (but gets dull quicker) might be preferable. Make an effort to master the art of sharpening knives – a wide variety of sharpening systems are available which make this job easy.
I REGULARLY USE both fixed-blade and folding/pocket knives. The knives I use reflect my preferences but might not work for you. Over the years I have used many knives and own far more then I’ll ever need to last me until I go to the Happy Hunting Grounds. I try to use as many of them as possible but my favourites remain three fixed-blades and two folders. The folders, two factory knives with blades that can’t lock, are a small Buck pocketknife and a Mauser (made by Victorinox for Mauser). I do own several lock-blade folders and prefer liner-lockers.
Two of the fixed-blades I use are knives of my own design. One is a piece by Andries Strydom and the other was factory-made in the Far East about 10 years ago as part of a commission of limited edition affordable knives, while the third is a semi-custom skinner from André Thorburn.
Whenever I go hunting, I always pack a folder and at least one of the fixed-blades (sometimes two). My knives are used regularly for field dressing (gutting animals), skinning and general work in and around camp. The pocket knives are small, light and, although not ideal, they are sufficient for the gutting and skinning of small game such as springbuck, blesbuck and impala. Their small size and light weight are their best attributes. I have modified one blade of the Mauser knife and use it as a belly ripper, after I have opened the skin with the clip-point blade.
My fixed-blades are drop-point hunters with four-inch blades (the semi-custom Thorburn is actually a drop-point skinner). The Strydom custom-knife has a flat-ground blade while the limited edition knife and the Thorburn feature hollow grind blades. My experience is that both types of grinds work well.
The drop-point blade prevents you puncturing the rumen when gutting the animal and the blades of my knives are deep enough to do a decent job at skinning.
Please remember, the ‘perfect’ hunting knife will not make you more adept at dressing and skinning game. Put in the work and practice until you become proficient with a knife. If you know how to use a blade, almost any knife will do, but, knives dedicated for certain jobs just make things a little easier.