a wallet

Leather s peciali s t , Fi l s on, Seattle

MATERIALS

• 1 300 × 300 mm piece

of 1.2 to 1.6 mm leather • 2 large-eye stitching needles* • 1.2 m 3.175 mm nylon

hand-stitching thread**

TOOLS REQUIRED

Utility knife Rubber cement Straightedge or square Awl or leather punch

1/ Measure and cut one piece of leather to 150 × 100 mm and two pieces to 50 × 100 mm with a utility knife.

2/ On the smaller pieces, measure off and lightly mark 12.5 mm in from the top corners. Make another mark 12.5 mm below the top edges of both pieces, at centre. Use a straight edge and a utility knife to cut between the points, forming a notch in each pocket ( Fig A).

3/ With the smooth, or shell, side of the large piece of leather facing down, place the smaller pieces shell-side up so that they are well aligned with the outside edges of the larger piece. There should be a 50 mm gap between the pieces. Use a little rubber cement to hold the pockets in place ( Fig B).

4/ Working around the perimeter of the main piece of leather (even where the pieces don’t overlap), use an awl to make holes 6 mm in from the edge and spaced approximately 6 mm apart ( Fig C).

5/ Starting with one of the longer sides of the wallet on top, saddle stitch the leather together ( Fig D). Thread two needles on one piece of thread, one on either end. Start the stitch by passing one needle through a corner hole. You should have a needle on either side of the leather at this point. Pass one needle through the next hole and to the other side, then pass the second needle through the same hole in the opposite direction. Repeat this process around the entire wallet.

6/ When you make it back to your first hole, continue stitching at least one or two holes past it, overlapping the first pieces of thread. Cut off any excess thread, then touch the ends with a lighter to melt the ends to the threading.

7/ Oil and condition the wallet regularly with a good-quality leather conditioner. *Available from woodheads.co.za **Available from leatherandcanvas.co.za

Filson is an outdoor-gear- and leather-goods company based in Seattle.