IN­SU­LATE THIS WAY

Popular Mechanics (South Africa) - - The First Story -

You want to place a layer that stops heat trans­fer in each di­rec­tion for op­ti­mal en­ergy con­ser­va­tion. Re­flec­tive foil sheet­ing un­der­neath roof tiles (shiny side up), for in­stance, will re­flect back ra­di­a­tion com­ing off of the hot tiles. Then there’s also a layer of glass-fi­bre in­su­la­tion that you can put on the ceil­ing boards to fur­ther ward off heat trans­fer to the in­side of the house.

If you have a house with ex­te­rior cav­ity walls, the air flow­ing through the cav­ity acts as a heat-trans­fer re­tar­dant. You can re­quest in­su­la­tion in ce­ment-block houses dur­ing con­struc­tion, but good luck with that. Best bet is to in­vest in good paint. Dou­ble-glazed win­dows have be­come re­quire­ments with the more en­ergy-con­scious build­ing reg­u­la­tions. The air be­tween the glass panes works as in­su­la­tion, the same as in a cav­ity wall.

Damp-proof course (DPC) un­der your house floor acts as crude in­su­la­tion, but in­vest in lam­i­nate wood or car­pet for an ex­tra layer of en­ergy-trans­fer buffer­ing.

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