The ring is most important
NIHAL Shah is a third-generation bespoke jewellery designer and director of Vijay Shah Concepts, an award-winning jewellery designer and manufacturer.
From the age of 5, Shah recalls finishing off at playschool at midday and spending the rest of his afternoons watching his grandfather and father at work in their jewellery workshop.
Today Shah is a modern-age jeweller incorporating 3D printing and other modern technologies into his jewellery.
“My grandfather was more of a traditional jeweller so he focused on those elements when it came to wedding jewellery. My dad … focused more on creating different unique pieces and entering … competitions and that’s where our family brand actually grew and in that sense, my dad is the founder of the Vijay Shah Concepts we have today. He created the benchmark.
“In the past with wedding jewellery, the focus was on making the bigger bangles and bigger, chunky neckpieces for a wedding trousseau. While we are still making those sorts of pieces, the market has changed a bit.
“Today’s bride seems to look for versatility in her pieces. She wants minimalistic creations that are more functional.”
Gen Z, investment
Shah said they have found that many of the Gen Z brides opt to accessorise with traditional costume jewellery on their wedding day and rather invest in gold pieces that could be worn regularly and that would bring them value down the line.
“A lot of families that have some of the bigger traditional sets of the past cannot believe the value in growth today. For example, a one-ounce Kruger Rand purchased in the year 2004 had an average value of R3 000 and the average price of that same coin being close to R31 000 today. So they are seeing the value behind gold, and looking at it as more of an investment.
“If you look at pandemic trends, in general, all markets … dropped. But gold shot up like you wouldn't believe. While some people have looked at crime and hesitated, those who have invested in gold are now seeing the value.”
He said the choice of wedding jewellery for modern couples was driven by a mix of investment and trends.
“Your choice of jewellery depends on personal preference of metals and stones and what you can afford. But my advice to anybody buying jewellery,
especially for a wedding, is don't decide to buy all at once. Rather do it in stages.
“If you know you are getting married, the ring is the most important thing. Buy something with value in it. From a demand perspective, people are misinformed when it comes to diamonds. There are a lot of other characteristics apart from colour and clarity that are important on a diamond. You don’t have to buy the most expensive piece, but buy something that has value in it.
“For example when looking at a diamond, the proportion and symmetry is important. As this affects the way the light reflects off a diamond and gives it that sparkly ‘life’. Certain diamond shapes sell faster than others on the market. For example, a round brilliant cut will move faster than a pear, heart or princess cut.”
International trends, ‘flex’
Shah said they have seen an influx of fancy shaped diamonds in the industry over the past two years and this was likely in keeping with trends overseas, particularly celebrity trends.
“So your pear shapes, the princess cuts, the emerald cuts, these are overseas trends that have carried over to South Africa. A lot of modern couples are also going for a simple big stone solitaire ring. People are largely misinformed that the carat weight is important, but if, for example, you have 20 diamonds that equal one carat versus one diamond that equals one
carat, one single large diamond is significantly more valuable.”
In line with celebrity trends, couples are going for bigger engagement rings.
“There's no bigger flex these days than a lady's engagement ring. Back in the day, in my grandfather's time, if you owned a one-carat diamond you were probably on Kim Kardashian’s kind of status; two carats were unheard of because it was considered to be extremely expensive. But these days most brides want a minimum of one carat.
“In terms of the traditional heavy bangles for Indian wedding trousseaus, we are seeing the shift away from this. It's more towards the tennis bracelets or Cartier-style bracelets/bangles.”
Pandemic trends
While silver has increased in value and there is a growing market for gold-plated silver jewellery, there is no doubt that it does not have the same value in growth as gold does.
“So from that perspective I always advise clients that if you can afford it, even the nine-carat gold, rather go with that. God has a beter growth investment than silver.
“Something that has amazed us …in our line of business is seeing the emotional effect that the pandemic has had on people in terms of the value that they attach to their loved ones. Every birthday, anniversary, Valentine's Day, Father's Day, Mother's Day seems to have become more special.”