Grand old dame Britannia has weathered a multitude of changes
SOMETHING magical is under way at the Britannia Hotel in Durban.
Despite oppressive political laws and changing fortunes, the city’s iconic landmark has weathered a multitude of changes and served as a vanguard of development for more than a century.
Now into her 140th year of existence, the grand old dame of Umgeni Road is again preparing to dress up and astound those willing to live a little, thanks to the shrewd leadership of owner Linkey Moodley.
For Moodley has thrown caution to the wind and brought Rome to Britannia by designing a venue so breathtaking in detail that it quickly transports you to another country, another era.
Deep in the heart of the hotel, in an area once limited to bookies and others willing to bet money in the hopes of making a quick buck, he has recreated the famed Colosseum.
The original Colosseum is the world’s largest amphitheatre, constructed between 69AD and 79AD.
Britannia’s Colosseum is just one part of the spellbinding venue. The other is the recreation of the artist Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel ceiling.
Decked out in Italian marble, and with replicas of Michelangelo’s sculpture of David, the venue transports you from Britannia’s Victorian roots to the Italian Renaissance.
“Creativity comes from your soul and it is divinity,” said Moodley.
However, since construction was still under way, David was mostly wrapped up and so the size and existence of his private area, which has been the source of much debate and even covered up in modest Dubai, remains a mystery.
No cost has been spared in creating an otherworldly venue, and only the most skilled artisans have been employed to craft an exclusive venue for high-brow conferences, weddings and musical delights.
“A tabla and a violin,” muses Moodley as he dreams of what the official opening could entail.
An avid painter, some of his own art would also be displayed in the venue.
“I believe that whatever God has given you, don’t waste it. Use it to the best of your ability,” he said.
Moodley said they were almost 70% through with the project when Covid-19 hit and everything ground to a halt.
Erring on the side of caution, he estimates it will take another six months before the doors are opened to the public.
It is clear, though, that the fortunes of Britannia and Moodley are undoubtedly intertwined. It seems that as Moodley has nurtured the longings of his soul with travel, art and the writings of sages like Jiddu Krishnamurti and Paramahansa Yogananda, so too have his business ideals developed.
“Creativity comes from your soul and it is divinity,” he believes.
In the case of Britannia, it is Moodley’s artistry, a keen eye for architectural detail, design and his love for travel that led to his latest venture. Like its owner, the hotel is awash with surprises if you take the time to observe.
Moodley came into the business in his early twenties when his uncle, V Mudalay, made him an offer.
He had just finished his studies and had enrolled to do a Master’s degree at the University of Durban-Westville with the hope of pursuing a career in academia, possibly in the US. Organisational psychology was his passion.
But his uncle had other business ventures and wanted him to take up his share in Britannia. By taking the opportunity, Moodley changed the course of his destiny and that of the hotel.
Now 41 years at the helm, it’s a far cry from when he started out. At that time Britannia was derelict and gloomy
on the inside, he said.
But the business had a reasonable profit, enough for him to refurbish and indulge his wanderlust, which he did for almost two decades.
There were many challenges: no restaurant, no geysers for hot water, there were only 14 bedrooms, of which 10 had to share bathrooms, and the parking area was just bush.
“No black could buy into property, so you needed someone white to front,” said Moodley.
In the ‘80s he was not allowed to serve a white person in his own bar, while the kitchen, which now draws crowds from far afield, only served two curries.
Britannia was always under surveillance and Moodley was constantly trapped by apartheid inspectors who would go into the bar to see who would serve them. In addition, black staff members were hounded for not having permits to stay overnight in the city, he said.
However, Moodley, who had his political genesis at Orient High School and went on to become a radical leftwing student activist at university, said he was not easily frightened.
Today Britannia is a five-star establishment with double the number of plush rooms replete with Hansgrohe bathroom fittings, frameless shower doors, air conditioners and a starting price of R490 per room per night during the off season.
Moodley said his motto was that the services offered should be the best, and what he would want for himself.
“We don’t believe in second best in anything we do.”
Over the years he instituted many changes at Britannia, including the establishment of the Capsicum restaurant with a seating capacity of 110.
It is also a popular venue for sports lovers, especially Kopites, because Britannia is the official home of the Liverpool Football Supporters Club in Durban. Affectionately known as BritAnfield to supporters, it is registered at Liverpool’s home ground, Anfield.
Bar manager Alicia Krishna is responsible for keeping palates watered with her selection of freshly pressed juices, flu shots, the thirsty horse cocktail (named after the pub) and alcohol-infused smoothies.
“Whatever we create is signature. We want to be original,” said Krishna, an anomaly in the business for being a teetotaller who designs drinks. “I taste it, but I don’t drink,” she laughed.
And Britannia is still famed for its chops chutney, which Moodley’s mom put on the menu many years ago when she popped in for a short stint to help them in the kitchen, and it turned into a labour of love lasting 20 years.
Currently, Britannia has 70 items on the menu ranging from exotic tripe bunny chows to vegan and vegetarian options.
Moodley, his wife Devi and their two sons are staunch Sai devotees and have turned vegetarian because of their religious beliefs.
Moodley told POST that he wanted the hotel to be admired for its looks and services.
He has left the running of the business in the hands of general manager Shamla Moodley, who has worked there for the past 25 years.
Although not related to Moodley, Shamla’s grandmother has also worked there before Moodley’s time. He described Shamla as one in a million in terms of integrity and gratitude, and said she had free rein as long as her decisions seemed logical to him.
Now 66, Moodley said he no longer wanted to be hands-on in the business and served mainly in an advisory capacity.
In the meantime, though, Britannia is powering its way into the digital age.
Its has an online platform, a delivery service, an app under development and uses biodegradable products to reduce its carbon footprint.