Premier Magazine (South AFrica)
the Hidden Gems of styria
An exploration of the wineries in the Styria region of Slovenia
High in the hills overlooking the Slovenian village of Loče lies Sanctum, one of the undisputed gems of the Styrian wine industry. Meet third-generation owner and winemaker, Marko Podkubovšek, as we dive into the world of Slovenian wine and the history behind this noble region.
Marko Podkubovšek was the proud winner of a Michelangelo Gold medal in the 2019 competition for his Sanctum Skrivnost White Blend (2011). This was the only medal awarded in 2019 for an entry from Slovenia.
In December 2019, Michelangelo founder and CEO, Lorraine Immelman, was invited to attend a private dinner and tasting in the beautiful home of Marko and his wife Spela, situated high in the hills of Loče. At the same time, Marko was presented with his Michelangelo gold medal and certificate.
On the occasion, a 16-dish feast of local seafood and organic fresh greens awaited guests - sourced and prepared by fisherman, winemaker, chef par excellence, and Marko’s life-long friend, Janez Maček. The meal was complemented by Sanctum’s beautiful, organically-grown wines, while a bottle of Janez Maček’s crisp white Malvasia Bianca (2017) also found its way to the table.
Sanctum’s range includes two elegant fruity Pinot Noirs and three Chardonnays - my favourite being the innovative Chardonnay Natura. Fermented on the skins (which results in spontaneous ferment with the natural yeasts from the vineyard) and aged sur lie (on the lees) for nine months, this wine is bottled unfiltered. Deep golden in colour with flavours of lemon and pineapple, it was the perfect accompaniment for the delicately-prepared prawns, local trout, squid, and crab dishes laid in front of the guests.
The vineyards of Sanctum stretch over 2,800 hectares in the hills above the town of Loče, where Marko grows Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah on two main types of soil. “We believe in sustainable viticulture and winemaking with minimal intervention,” he says, adding “our goal is to make wines that are true expressions of our unique terroir of clay and marl”.
He may be an imposing man whose presence fills a room like a cloud, but Marko Podkubovšek is a man of few words. He closes his eyes while nosing, then sipping, the Sanctum 2018 Pinot Noir/syrah blend, fittingly called ‘My Red’. “I get lost in a tunnel – a vision of creating a wine which is sublime and reflects both the beauty of the vine and the terroir. And with this wine I know I am in the right direction”
Slovenian Wine
Slovenië is not exactly a country which springs to mind when award-winning wines of the world are mentioned. However, a little-known fact is that Slovenia has more than 28,000 wineries spreading their vineyards over more than 22,000 hectares. Between 80 and 90 million litres of wine are produced annually – about 75% being white.
Almost all of this wine is consumed domestically, with only about six million litres being exported – mainly to the USA, the Czech Republic, and Croatia.
The country’s wine-making history goes back to the 12th century, when French Carthusian monks selected this area to establish a monastery and plant vineyards. Historic records show that they planted the first Pinot Noir grapes here.
The cooler climate and special soil composition of Stajerska wine regions offer ideal conditions for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Welch Riesling, Tramminer, and Pinot Gris.
Slovenia’s wines may not be recognised on a global scale yet, but quality continues to replace quantity, as is made evident by Slovenian winemakers bringing home medals from world competitions around the globe – for example, the gold medal awarded by the international jury of the 2019 Michelangelo International Wine & Spirits Awards. We look forward to Sanctum’s offerings for the 2020 competition!