Premier Magazine (South AFrica)
Coastal Gold
The sensualist’s guide to the garden route
Sensational natural beauty, five-star accommodation, great food, award-winning farmers markets, offbeat coffee bars, and crystal havens are among the charms of the stretch of the Southern Cape that comprises the heart of the Garden Route. Here is where to go, and what to do, know, eat, and buy.
Aworld-renowned stretch of forests, mountains, and oceans, interspersed with meandering coastal towns and villages, the Southern Cape is made for roadtripping, romance, and relaxation. Set your speedometer on slow for the sake of both your mood and your wallet (speed traps abound), take a deep breath, and get set to relax, recalibrate, and indulge.
First … a double-shot Flat White
If ‘coffee obsessive’ is your idea of a compliment, prepare to be impressed. The burgeoning caffeine culture along this coast includes independent roasteries, cute cafes, market stalls, and one of the best brews around from a garagecentre bakery. Order a double at these favourites:
• Calarossa in George is a small, unpretentious spot that is loved for its big heart and major roast. Charming baristas and a committed owner add the Xfactor.
• Beans About Coffee in George roasts small batches of beans from around the world and it supplies local restaurants, lodges, and hotels. Simply terrific.
• The Green Shed Coffee Roastery in Wilderness is laidback and Bohemian, with a gift and health food section, and an on-premises roastery. Unwind on the cushionstrewn daybed and enjoy a farmhouse meal or slice of cake under the trees.
• île de païn in Knysna is an iconic artisanal bakery and café, loved for its glamorous setting, panache and the great breads that emerge from its wood-fired oven. Brilliant for a stylish breakfast, lunch, or tea, and, of course, always excellent for coffee.
• Bread & Brew at the Crags’ petrol-stop shopping centre is definitely not your average garage grab-and-go. The homey bakes here include terrific quiches and pies, and coffees that give many a trendy city joint a run for its money. Grab a takeout on the run or relax in the seating area and playground at the back. Eat, drink, unwind Restaurants in this area range from bustling family favourites to small artisanal cafes, classic to Bohemian. Put these on your itinerary for breakfast, lunch or dinner. • Seafood at The Plettenberg Hotel in Plettenberg Bay is a favourite with local and international travellers – an serene five-star setting, with warm service, and gorgeous views of Formosa Bay. Ideal for a classy breakfast, sybaritic lunch, or indulgent dinner. Standouts on the menu include the luscious Garden Route Salad, truffle oil French Fries, Mossel Bay sole, and the signature twice-baked cheese soufflé.
• Enrico in Keurboomstrand is a local institution. The buzzy deck has incredible ocean views, while the atmosphere inside is warm, homely, and inviting. The menu is extensive, but the favourite is the signature Fish Enrico – fresh line fish cooked in olive oil, white wine, parsley, and garlic.
• Emily’s Restaurant at Emily Moon River Lodge in Plettenberg Bay is a dreamy destination, set between old trees and filled with treasures from the owners’ decades of travel in Africa, Asia, and Polynesia. Eat inside for bohemian romance, or alongside the lovely pool for great views.
• 101 Meade in George is a culinary gem, with sensational décor, smooth service, and sophisticated cuisine. A total do-not-miss, from the cocktail menu at the stellar bar to the banquettes, private dining room, and show kitchen.
• Sirocco in the trendy Thesen Harbour of Knysna, is set on the water’s edge, with a relaxed mood that is made for long lunches, sexy cocktails, and celebratory dinners. The menu includes Asian favourites like sushi, Mediterranean options like bouillabaisse, and popular standards like fillet.
• The Bell Tavern at the historic Belvidere Manor is a quaint attraction, famous for being the smallest pub in Knysna. It is situated in a lagoon-side suburb so pristine it feels like a movie set. Think blockwood floors, yellowwood ceilings, a glass-fronted cellar, and pub meals alongside the wood-burning stove or at an outdoor table.
• The Restaurant at the Newstead Lund Family Vineyards Wines in the Crags combines outstanding wines and bubbles with lovely views and everything on the small, seasonal menu is simply delicious, stylishly presented, and excellently served.
• Nice Neighbour in Plettenberg Bay is the dreamchild of a talented husband-and-wife team and their enthusiasm shines through in this bright and airy place with its on-site baker. It is beautifully located, between the indigenous gardens and stylish stores of Old Nick Village, and the menu is fresh and eclectic. Eat in the airy barn or at pretty outdoor tables. Artworks on display are by local artists and are for sale.
To market, to market
The Saturday-morning Wild Oats Community Market is a Garden Route landmark. An award-winning platform for all things flavourful and organic, it has been promoting local produce for 22 years. Go hungry to make the most of choices like hot breakfast, smoothies, sushi, snails, cakes, and pastries, and bring a cooler bag so you can take home farm-fresh fruits, veggies,dairy, and bakes. The standard is consistently high, but do make a point of visiting these stalls:
• The Deli Delights Cheese Stand is an attraction all on its own, with a queue that attests to the superb selection and the generous expertise of the owners.
• Connie’s Rusks take a classic to new heights with luxe and inventive ingredients like chocolate, macadamias, dates, and cinnamon, as well as sugar-free options.
• The Brazilian Baker serves up creamy cakes, regional pastries, and million-dollar smiles. • well i am soaps are beautifully scented rough-cut blocks that feel fabulous and look stylish.
• Cape Oysters is amazing for fresh and well-priced crustaceans that are adeptly shucked by the plateful while you wait. Served on enamel plates, so you can bliss out at a nearby table.
Calling all shoppers
Farmstalls and craft centres feature at regular intervals, and you will find jams, pickles, crafts, and souvenirs at Thyme and Again, Elephant Walk, and more. For specialised stores in special settings, visit these great nodes:
• Old Nick Village, Plettenberg Bay, a beautifully restored and repurposed Cape Farm complex set in indigenous gardens. Old Nicks houses stylishly curated stores. Start with a meal at Nice Neighbour and then explore the collectibles, aromatherapy products, handcraft and antiques at Ruby Soul Psychadelicatessen, the confectionary at Shautany Chocolatiers, and the exquisite crystals, magical tools and jewellery at Moonstone.
• Mungo Mill on the same premises is a wonderfully designed working mill and historic showcase, with an elevated viewing deck. The adjacent store is packed
with Mungo linen, from terrific tablecloths to luxe dressing gowns.
Visit the Wednesday market at Old Nick Village for organic food, craft, and a chance to soak up the relaxed atmosphere.
• Timberlake Village, Wilderness, with stone pathways, monkeys playing in the trees, and wooden cottages make for a rustic setting in which to shop for art, crafts, wines, leather accessories, clothing, and German deli goods. Set aside plenty of time to be enchanted by the treasure trove of expertly selected and explained crystals, spiritual tools, Boho jewellery, and imaginative gifts for children of all ages at The Faerie Gem Shop. Foodwise, you will find country-style dishes at Zucchini Restaurant, light meals and cakes at Pause Coffee Roastery, and seafood tapas at the Oyster Shack.
• Scarab Village and Mosaic Village and Outdoor Market, Sedgefield are situated alongside the Wild Oats market, with permanent stores and lively stalls on Saturdays. You will find take-out and sit-down food options, with live music, and a wide choice of craft, art, jewellery, and gifts. Vegans, look out for the excellent specialty restaurant.
Get set to luxuriate
Plettenburg Bay regularly tops roundups of the greatest beach destinations in the world, a formerly sleepy hamlet that is becoming a favoured resort for stylish travellers, chic socialites, cool surfers, hot honeymooners, adventure-seekers, and polo players. All of which makes the adage ‘location, location, location’ all the more important. Superb location plus a five-star rating, is where The Plettenberg Hotel comes into picture. The 35 rooms of the boutique hotel range from standard to airy suites, with the Blue Wing for those in search of a private heated pool, terrace, and entertaining areas, and two family-size villas. The spa, Sun Lounge and Sandbar are made for on the spot pampering and pleasure, while a fiveminute stroll takes you up the hill to the shops, bars, and restaurants in the centre of town. The cultural, gastronomic, and adventure experiences of the area are within easy reach, too. However, the most memorable part of location of The Plettenberg is its rare advantage of being set on a rocky headland right on the water’s edge. The views here take in miles of beach, Keurbooms Lagoon, and the Tsitsikamma Mountains. Plus, you can spot whales and dolphins pretty much all year round from the terrace and infinity pool, while the sea is literally a hop, skip, and jump away.
Some 30 years ago, this serene blue and white haven was the Look Out, a down-on-its-luck one-star hotel. Near derelict, it took two years and the elegant and determined hand of an industry legend to create a landmark and the recipient of a slew of Trip Advisor, Diners Club, and other international awards. Decades after she launched The Plettenberg, going on to establish Cape Towns’ Cellars Hohenhort in Hermanus’ The Marine, the hallmark attention to detail and personal attention of the late Liz Mcgrath are still very much in evidence – as is her recipe for a glamorous twice-baked cheese soufflé. The total effect? Wonderfully good for the mood.
“One of the best things I can hear is the sound of guests enjoying themselves – laughing, and chatting with our team,” says General Manager of the hotel, MJ Birch. “We want people to feel warmth, relaxation, comfort, and genuinely caring service from the minute they walk inside. I think of The Plettenberg as an experience of ‘barefoot luxury’ – a five-star hotel where you feel totally relaxed, at ease, and one with the environment.”
Birch, has worked in environments ranging from the bustling The Burner’s Hotel in London to the Londolozi Private Game Reserve in the bushveld. His experience ranges from bartending at the bottom of the professional ladder to taking care of Oscar winners.
But, if ever his skills and experience have been tested, it was surely over the past 17 months. Birch had been GM at The Plettenberg for four years when the 2020 COVID19 Lockdown hit, followed by the closure of beaches during the holiday season. The effects were devastating for the area, raising questions of survival and staff retention. How to manage that, while reimagining the future, and staying optimistic? To begin with, the company embarked on an extensive work programme. “We always knew we would reopen and that we would be able to welcome our guests once again, so we focused on being stronger than ever before when we did that. With no guests in the hotel, we were able to go room by room, check the details and effect change,” says Birch, who moved into the hotel for the six months of Lockdown. “We have done everything from installing new floors and resurfacing our swimming pool to replacing the buffet breakfast with an a la carte menu. South Africans are doing more local travel and we have had incredible support from the domestic market. We are very optimistic, also anticipating an increase in international travel very soon.”
The demand for family-style accommodation seems set to grow, along with the desire for privacy and romance – think experiences like dinner in the wine cellar or a tailormade menu prepared and served in the privacy of your villa. Peace, quiet, nature, and wide-open spaces are the new luxuries – what could be more reviving than waking up to a breath-taking ocean view or taking a stroll on one of Plett’s five blue flag beaches?
“For travellers who want to bring their pets along, specially designated suites include dog beds, dog bowls, and dog menus. Let us not forget the turndown treats,” adds Birch. “After all, the dogs are also coming for a fivestar experience!”