The cosy Christmas markets of Edinburgh
When thinking of Christmas markets, complete with wonderfully decorated stalls, hot chocolate and glühwein to keep you warm against the cold, and beautiful trinkets for gift shopping, it's destinations like Germany and France that normally spring to mind. However, the historical city of Edinburgh in Scotland is proving to be a wonderful destination to get into the Christmas spirit. Sam Bradley, who visited the last Christmas markets in December 2021, explores further.
Once in Edinburgh it won’t take long to feel festive: every street seems to be adorned with historic stone buildings, ancient cobbled streets and an abundance of delightfully warm and cosy pubs and restaurants. The early sunsets and cold temperatures only add to the atmosphere, and there’s also a decent chance of snowfall adding to the sense of magic. And it certainly doesn’t hurt that the city goes all out to get into the festive spirit, with an abundance of artfully decorated Christmas trees.
Attractions
The Edinburgh Christmas market is on East Princes Street Gardens, right in the heart of the city and is overlooked by the magnificent castle. There’s lots to keep everyone entertained, from shopping for quirky gifts such as wind spinners, Christmas tree decorations and historic maps, to enjoying a mulled wine, or a Big Wheel ride for those feeling brave. The children will love Santa Land, bumper cars, the Christmas tree maze, a reindeer carousel and Santa’s grotto, and there’s also an ice rink nearby on George Street.
Ancient city
It's impossible to visit Edinburgh and not soak in the history of the city. From ancient stone buildings and narrow alleyways, to cemeteries which were targeted by graverobbers in the 1800s, reminders of the past are never far away. The Royal Mile is bordered by Edinburgh Castle on one end and The Palace of Holyroodhouse on the other, both well worth a tour. While Holyroodhouse is the official royal residence in Edinburgh (guests can visit the State apartments), for me the most memorable part of the tour was visiting the chambers of Mary Queen of Scots, especially the room where her secretary was gruesomely murdered by a group of powerhungry Scottish lords. For
those planning a tour of Edinburgh Castle, it may be worth combining it with the Castle of Light: Hidden Treasures show which runs every evening in December.
Land of whiskey
Scotland is also known as the land of whisky, so those interested in a wee dram and a tour don’t have to look far. The Johnnie Walker experience on Princes Street provides an interactive way to learn about the country’s national drink, including shows, demos and, excitingly, the chance to make your own drinks at the end. Holyrood Distillery is another option that provides a fascinating tour of their whisky and gin making distillery, led by passionate guides and interspersed with generous tastings throughout the tour.
There are many historic restaurants in Edinburgh, allowing visitors to fill those rumbling stomachs and take a step into the past at the same time. One of those is The Sheep Heid Inn, established in 1360 – Scotland’s oldest surviving public house. The menu is exciting and the food is substantial and satisfying, and while you eat you can roll a few balls in the beautifully restored Victorian-era ten-pin bowling alley (although you’ll need to manually restack the pins yourself). Over on The New Town side, the afternoon tea at The Register Club (on the fourth floor of Cheval the Edinburgh Grand) is a treat not to be missed – be sure to try some of the delicious cocktails. If you happen to indulge in a few too many and need to stay a little longer, there are 50 stylish apartments right there to choose from.
Accommodation
All that eating, exploring and shopping can be tiring on the feet, so choosing an accommodation option close to the city centre is a wise idea. The 74 self-catering apartments of the Cheval Old Town Chambers are ideally located right on the Royal Mile and come with decadent rooms and a lovely kitchen, while on the ground floor there is a roaring fireplace and cute Christmas decorations in a cosy reception area. There is also the delightful Luckenbooths restaurant as an alternative dining option to the self-catering facilities. Further down the Royal Mile, the Cheval Abbey Strand apartments at Holyrood, renovated from a historic 15th century building, also contains nine beautiful apartments of various sizes and layouts.
Best of all is that once Christmas
has gone, there is still something to look forward to: Hogmanay (New Year’s Eve) is an important occasion in Scotland. It involves a threeday party, including torchlight processions, outdoor street concerts and parties, providing the perfect excuse to extend your stay.