“The Art of Flip­ping (Part 2)”

In this three part se­ries we look at the art of flip­ping which will en­lighten and as­sist you to catch more and big­ger fish. In this is­sue we look at the flip­ping sys­tem.

SA Bass - - Contents - >> Gor­don Brown*

In this three part se­ries we look at the art of flip­ping which will en­lighten and as­sist you to catch more and big­ger fish. In this is­sue we look at the flip­ping sys­tem – Gor­don Brown

Chang­ing from ul­tra-light to flip­ping is like switch­ing from a pow­der puff to sand­pa­per – it is the great­est con­trast in bass fish­ing. Flip­ping was orig­i­nated and per­fected by a cou­ple of Cal­i­for­ni­ans, Dee Thomas and Dave Gliebe in the late 1970’s.

I need to pose the ques­tion again, namely: “what is flip­ping”?

My an­swer is as fol­lows: “It is a con­trolled cast­ing method that pro­vides pre­cise line con­trol and bait place­ment for casts of be­tween 3 and 7 me­tres. It is most eas­ily achieved by us­ing a 7ft or longer rod and al­ways a free-spool bait­cast­ing reel”.

Flip­ping of­fers three def­i­nite ad­van­tages

* It of­fers a quiet, no-splash pre­sen­ta­tion.

* It pro­vides pre­ci­sion and ac­cu­racy.

* It pro­vides the an­gler with the max­i­mum con­trol of any size fish.

Why do you need such con­trol? Al­most ev­ery lake has some type of heavy cover and my ob­ser­va­tion is that it is usu­ally not be­ing fished right in the thick­est places. An­glers tend to cast all around it, and still too many are un­able to get their lures way back into the thick, bass-hold­ing struc­ture and cover.

To start flip­ping, tie on a jig and let out about fif­teen feet of line, more or less de­pend­ing on wa­ter depth and how long a flip you want to make. With your left hand, take line from be­tween the reel and the first guide and hold it out to the side, leav­ing about 7ft of line hang­ing from the rod tip. Swing the jig un­der the rod, fol­low­ing it slightly by low­er­ing the rod tip, which will al­low the jig to swing fur­ther back and will also put the rod in the proper tip-down po­si­tion for the next move.

As the jig starts for­ward, be­gin rais­ing the rod tip and move your hand for­ward to in­crease the lure speed. At the end of the swing, give the rod tip a gen­tle flip to send the jig on its way. As the jig moves to­ward the tar­get, let the line in your left hand slip through your fin­gers, but don’t let go of it. Just be­fore the jig hits the wa­ter, grip the slip­ping line. With prac­tice, you’ll be able to stop the jig an inch above the wa­ter and let it slip in with hardly a rip­ple. At the com­ple­tion of the cast, the rod po­si­tion should be al­most par­al­lel to the wa­ter.

Put the rod butt un­der your right arm and with the reel han­dle up, reel in any slack line left with your left hand. When you get a strike, and have set the hook by hand,

change the rod from right hand to left hand and play the bass by reel­ing with your right hand. (This is for those who nor­mally cast with their right hand).

nce you have flipped into your tar­get and have let your bait fall to the depth required, slowly raise your rod and re­trieve the line by pulling the line back through the rod eyes with your left hand, ready for the next flip.

If you are just start­ing to flip, you can al­ways prac­tice at home in the gar­den by stand­ing on a chair and plac­ing three small con­tain­ers 3, 5 and 7 me­tres in front of you. The chair is to el­e­vate you as the boat deck is some­what higher than the wa­ter level. Spool up with around 20-pound monofil­a­ment line with a 3/8- ounce to half ounce jig - the colour is not im­por­tant - prefer­ably with the hook cut off as we don’t want sto­ries of your cat or dog caught on a jig!

A good flip­per can put a jig or a plas­tic worm in a cof­fee cup at 7 me­tres away ten out of ten times, and out on the wa­ter the bait would be cast so gen­tly and eas­ily that it would hardly make a rip­ple!

If you are tar­get­ing a small hole in the lily pads and your cast is off tar­get, the me­chan­ics of flip­ping will al­low you to stop the lure in mid air and re­call the cast and flip again. This re­call­ing of the cast is much like what a fly caster is able to do when he sees he is off tar­get. The bait or spin caster does not have this op­tion. If a bad cast is made it is pos­si­ble to stop the lure short of the tar­get but the re­sult­ing splash of the bait will in all like­li­hood spook the fish. Very few bait-cast­ers can make casts of 4 to 7 me­tres ac­cu­rately, and even if they can, there is no way they can drop the lure as qui­etly and gen­tly as a flip­per can.

Un­til the next is­sue, prac­tice and prac­tice again to start get­ting the flip­ping tech­nique work­ing for you.

I trust that, with all the in­for­ma­tion pro­vided in this three part se­ries, it will en­light­en­ing and as­sist you to catch more and big­ger fish. In the next is­sue: ‘Part 3’ - rods, lines reels, baits, sinkers, ar­eas to flip, boat con­trol and more.

“The proof is in the pud­ding”

A good flip­per can cast a jig so gen­tly and eas­ily that it would hardly scare the fish

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