Why lotus silk is among the most expensive fabrics
THE lotus flower is symbolic in several cultures, especially those entrenched in eastern religion. It’s also a symbol of pride in Asia.
Beyond it being synonymous with purity, enlightenment, self-regeneration and rebirth, the lotus seeds are known for their medicinal value and have been used by the culinary world, too. But its uses don’t end there.
The fashion industry has also found ways to make use of Vietnam’s national flower. By using the thread found in the stem, they’ve created one of the rarest fabrics in the world – lotus silk.
Now this development, while incorporated by fashion designers of today, has been around for some time and is synonymous with the history of Myanmar.
In fact, it dates back to the 1900s and emerged in Inhle Lake, in the Shan Hills of Myanmar. A woman from the
Kyaingkhan village used lotus fibres to weave several monastic robes.
Although the weaving practice ended with her death, it was later revived by family members, who went on to modernise and systemise the process.
Vietnam was introduced to the weaving process by Phan Thi Thuan, a weaver near Hanoi, in 2017.
The price of lotus silk is jaw-dropping, largely due to being a very labour-intensive, complex process. How lotus silk is made
Each thread of the lotus silk starts with a stem of a lotus flower. Once the stem is selected and handpicked, the silk inside is extracted. Each stem contains thin, sticky fibres that must be rolled together and dried.
The threads need to be processed within 24 hours or they’ll break. As a result, harvesting has to be done daily, and the lotus plants are only available to harvest between April and October.
How it gained popularity in the modern world of fashion
Vietnam is famous for its lotus fields. Most of its people used to harvest lotus seed and flowers, throwing away the lotus stem as rubbish.
Around 2009, a curious French fabric designer, Awen Delaval, discovered that the lotus stems contain long soft fibres that can be twisted into a textile material. Following thorough research, he produced his first lotus fabric.
He went on to become an associate founder of Samatoa Lotus Textiles, a fabric-producing company.
“As a lover of eco-friendly fashion, I pursued this craft, setting up a laboratory in Siem Reap in search of the perfect lotus to create the unique fabric.
“Setting my eyes on the spectacular lotus lake of Kamping Poy (near Battambang), I knew I had found my nirvana. Based in the city of Angkor, I am surrounded by historic spirituality.
“And this, the lotus, appears as the cornerstone of my project, offering symbolism, nobility of soul, beauty and purity. In addition, for Samatoa, the lotus represents the culmination of the company’s ultimate quest for excellence,” read Delaval’s bio.
Why it’s so expensive
In a video posted on Youtube by Business Insider, a woman named
Phan Thi Thuan said it takes much time to process it. Extracting it for one scarf can take two months. To make a scarf of about 36x175cm, one needs about 9 200 stems.
Each scarf can cost about $777 (about R11 120). Thi Thuan, who has been making silk for many years, started experimenting with lotus silk in 2017.
“When people suggested I should make lotus silk, I felt it would be beneficial for the farmers and the people. I thought I have the ability and the determination to do it,” she said. Designers who use lotus silk Loro Piana, an Italian clothing and textile company specialising in highend fashion, is one of the big brands that use lotus silk to create luxurious garments.
Lotus Paradis, a French clothing brand, is also big on lotus garments. Founder Sophie Brooks fell in love with the fabric when she visited Cambodia and has since been using it to create eco-friendly collections.