Boho boudoir

For a room with as many facets as your per­son­al­ity, this com­bi­na­tion of fresh white, touches of black and bright flower pat­terns is ideal.

Sew Ideas - - Contents - projects KEVIN SWARTS, KAREN ADEN­DORFF and JEN­NIFER JA­COBS

Make a beau­ti­ful du­vet, bol­ster, ki­mono and hand­bag plus a fab­ric chan­de­lier


Top white, bot­tom bright – make this quilt with its pulled-through tas­sels for a bo­hemian room filled with sur­prises.

NOTE All seam al­lowances are 1,5cm.

1 Pin and sew the two printed fab­ric pan­els, right sides to­gether, along one 207cm-long edge to form one 207 x 240cm panel. Press the seam open.

2 Pin the front and back pan­els right sides to­gether. Pin the bat­ting to the two lay­ers of the cover with the printed panel against the bat­ting. Start­ing 20cm from the cen­tre of the bot­tom edge, sew through all three lay­ers around the outer edge of the quilt, leav­ing a 40cm­long open­ing in the cen­tre of the fi­nal seam. Trim the ex­cess fab­ric and bat­ting from the seam al­lowances at the corners be­fore turn­ing the quilt through to the right side. Next, sew the bat­ting to the printed fab­ric panel along the seam line at the open­ing. Fold the seam al­lowance of the white fab­ric to the side of the quilt and sew up the open­ing by hand with small slip stitches.

3 Pin the outer edge of the quilt to hold it flat and sew a line of top stitches 1cm in from the edge.

4 Place the quilt on a flat sur­face. Mea­sure and mark with pins a 33 x 33cm grid pat­tern for the po­si­tions of the tas­sels. There should be seven points across and six points down the length. For each tas­sel, cut five 30cm strands of cro­chet cot­ton and thread each one half­way through a nee­dle so each tas­sel will con­sist of 10 strands. Draw the strands through the quilt from the white side, and then back through again, 5mm to the left of the first point. Tie each bun­dle with a square knot and trim the end to a length of 5cm.


Re­peat the black in your colour scheme, this time with a fine black stripe on your lovely big bol­ster. And re­peat the flo­ral de­sign on the sides too.

NOTE All seam al­lowances are 1,5cm. 1 Fold the striped fab­ric length­wise over on it­self, right sides to­gether, to form a tube 78cm long.

2 Pin and sew 11,5cm at each end of the seam al­lowance, leav­ing a 55cm open­ing for the zip place­ment. Press the seam open and over­lock the seam al­lowances in­di­vid­u­ally. Place a zipper foot on the sewing ma­chine and in­sert the zip into the open­ing.

3 Pin and sew the two pieces of printed fab­ric for the end pan­els to form two 15cm-long tubes. Sew the end pan­els to the ends of the bol­ster cover. Next, over­lock and sew a 1,5cm-wide casing at each end of the cover, leav­ing a 1cm open­ing to thread the cord through.

4 Thread a length of cord though each of the cas­ings and draw the cord in to gather the fab­ric. Tie the cords firmly and cut the ex­cess length from the ends.

5 Sew the cover of the bol­ster in­ner us­ing the white fab­ric pieces, leav­ing a 20cm open­ing in the long seam. Turn the cover through to the right side and fill with stuff­ing. Pin and top stitch the open­ing, 2mm in from the folded edge. In­sert the bol­ster in­ner through the zip to com­plete the cush­ion.

Short ki­mono

Easy to make and ef­fort­lessly stylish, this ki­mono is best worn as a light jacket, or to add colour to a tai­lored evening look.

Size: one size only to fit size 10-14 Dif­fi­culty: easy Time: one day

To make

NOTE All pat­tern pieces in­clude a 1,5cm seam al­lowance.

1 Draft the pat­tern pieces on pages 6769 onto dressmaker’s graph pa­per. Cut the pieces of the ki­mono from the fab­ric and trans­fer all pat­tern mark­ings. Sew the shoul­der seams of the front and back pieces to­gether with right sides fac­ing. Press the seam al­lowances open.

2 Match the up­per edge of the sleeve pieces and stitch to­gether. Set the sleeves into the arm­holes. 3 Plac­ing them right sides to­gether, match the front and back pieces. Sew the un­der­side of the sleeve and side seam in one con­tin­u­ous seam. Re­peat for the other side.

4 Turn the seam al­lowance of the hem and sleeves to­wards the in­side and top stitch in place with a twin nee­dle.

5 Fold the col­lar piece length­wise, right sides to­gether. Stitch the short sides to­gether up to the seam al­lowance. Turn through to the right side and press.

6 Plac­ing right sides to­gether, pin one edge of the col­lar piece to the neck­line of your gar­ment and sew in place.

7 Press the seam al­lowance to the in­side, hid­ing all raw edges. Slip stitch the other side of col­lar in place by hand.

Bead chan­de­lier

Use your fab­ric rem­nants and lots of pa­tience to make this strik­ing chan­de­lier for your bed­room.

To make

1 Plan your colour scheme and cover the beads as fol­lows: mea­sure the di­am­e­ter of the bead from hole to hole. This is the width of the strip of fab­ric. Mea­sure the cir­cum­fer­ence of the bead and add 1cm – this is the length of the strip of fab­ric. Cut out all the strips. Make lit­tle snips on both long sides of the strip so that the fab­ric fits neatly around the curve of the bead.

2 Ap­ply glue to the back of the strips of fab­ric and stick them over the beads.

3 Cut 12 strings of waxed cord of about 50cm each and 12 of about 1m each.

4 Tie the strings of cord se­curely to the bot­tom of the bas­ket, al­ter­nat­ing be­tween the short cords and the long ones. Thread three small (2,5cm), four medium (3cm) and three large (3,5cm) beads onto the first long string and tie it to the top edge of the bas­ket. Take the next (short) string, thread on two small, four medium and three large beads and tie it to the bas­ket edge. Con­tinue in this way (with one long string with three small beads and the next short string with just two) un­til all 24 strings are tied evenly to the edge of the bas­ket.

5 Now thread four large, six medium and four small beads onto the first long string. This de­ter­mines the height of the chan­de­lier.

6 At­tach the light-fit­ting ring (the in­side part of the lamp­shade frame) with jew­eller’s wire to the three chains at the top of the bas­ket. Cut off the loose ends.

7 Tie the long string that you threaded with beads in step 5 to the top of the light-fit­ting ring.

8 Now thread beads onto all the long strings in the same way as in step 5 and tie them to the light fit­ting. You will have 12 strings in to­tal.

9 Make six strings to drape around the chan­de­lier hor­i­zon­tally by thread­ing two small, one medium and then another two small beads on a piece of waxed cord and ty­ing it to the top edge of the bas­ket.

10 Cut away all the loose ends of the strings and hang up the chan­de­lier.

Pleated hand­bag

Against the cup­board or over your arm, this pleated hand­bag will take a week­end to make but will give you years of plea­sure.

To make

1 Cut the fol­low­ing: two strips of 150 x 30cm for the front and back pan­els; two lin­ing pan­els 37,5 x30cm; two strips 94 x 7cm for the side and bot­tom pan­els; and two straps 44 x 8cm.

2 Fol­low the pat­tern on pages 70-71 and mark all pleats on the two strips for the front and back pan­els with a dressmaker’s pen­cil or pen. Fold and stitch each pleat in po­si­tion. Press the fab­ric.

3 Make lit­tle snips into the side strip as given on the pat­tern and then stitch it onto the side and bot­tom edges of the pleated front panel.

4 Stitch the same side strip onto the side and bot­tom edges of the pleated back panel. This forms the outer bag.

5 Stitch the other side strip onto the two lin­ing pan­els. This forms the lin­ing bag. Turn it through to the right side.

6 Fold the straps in half length­ways and stitch them. Turn through to the right side, sew two stitches and press.

7 Pin the straps to the right side of the lin­ing at the mark­ings.

8 Place the lin­ing bag in the pleated bag with right sides to­gether, pin in place and stitch to­gether, leav­ing an open­ing of 15cm for turn­ing through. Turn the whole hand­bag to the right side through the open­ing. Push the lin­ing bag back in­side the hand­bag. Close the open­ing with small stitches. Press the hand­bag. Work a few small catch stitches here and there be­tween the folds in the pleats and through the lin­ing to hold the lin­ing in place.

Books from Abode. Turquoise cush­ion from Loads of Liv­ing. Por­trait cush­ion and turquoise lan­tern from MRP Home. Small bird­cage from In Good Com­pany. Model: He­lena from Full Cir­cle. Hair and make-up: Lyn­dall from Su­per­nova.

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