Sweet dreams

Few things will make your lit­tle girl hap­pier when she closes her eyes at night than a soft toy in her arms and a tutu on her bed.

Sew Ideas - - Contents - projects AN­NEKE DU TOIT

De­light a lit­tle princess with a bal­le­rina du­vet, tutu, toy and smocked cur­tains

Swan toy

A soft toy will al­ways be a favourite way to help send lit­tle chil­dren to dream­land.

To make

1 En­large the tem­plate on page 79 to the de­sired size. Cut two beak pieces and two cheeks from the light pink fab­ric. Cut two wings from the bright pink fab­ric. Cut four body pieces from the grey fab­ric so there are two lay­ers for each side and the fab­ric will be thick.

2 Take two of the body pieces and pin and stitch a cheek, beak and wing onto each one. Place the two pieces to­gether with right sides fac­ing and the two ex­tra pieces on the out­side. Stitch through all the lay­ers but leave an open­ing of about 8cm at the bot­tom for turn­ing. Turn through to the right side and press.

3 Stuff the swan firmly with the polyester stuff­ing. Start sewing the open­ing closed and stuff the toy fur­ther as you work. You can use a knit­ting nee­dle to push the stuff­ing into the beak. Close the open­ing by hand.

4 For the crown, fold over the bot­tom edge of the strip of lace and press. Fold over the two side edges and press. Shape the strip into a crown and sew the side seam to­gether by hand. Pin the crown onto the swan’s head and sew it in place with small, neat hand stitches.

5 Draw the swan’s eyes with a fine pen­cil line. Dip the tip of the skewer into the fab­ric paint and care­fully go over the line un­til you are happy with the thick­ness.

Du­vet and pil­low set

This is the per­fect bed linen for a lit­tle girl who loves to dance.

To cut

Use the tem­plate on page 80 for the dress and cut the bodice piece once from fab­ric and once from ap­pliqué pa­per, cut­ting the ap­pliqué pa­per a few mil­lime­tres smaller than the fab­ric bodice piece. Cut the skirt sec­tion of the dress four times from fab­ric and twice from ap­pliqué pa­per. For the tulle tutu cut two strips of 115 x 30cm each in the two colours of your choice. Use the tem­plate on page 79 for the bal­let shoes and cut one layer from mesh and one layer from ap­pliqué pa­per.

To make

1 Fold 5mm of the fab­ric bodice piece over to the wrong side and press flat around the edge. Iron the ap­pliqué pa­per to the wrong side of the bodice ac­cord­ing to the in­struc­tions. Do not re­move the pa­per yet. Iron the ap­pliqué pa­per to the two pieces of the skirt sec­tion that will form the un­der­side.

2 Fold over the top and side edges of the skirt sec­tion a few mil­lime­tres to the wrong side and press flat. In­sert the lower edge of the bodice piece be­tween the two lay­ers of the skirt sec­tion and pin down. Also pin the side edges of the two lay­ers of fab­ric of the skirt sec­tion. Fold over the two ends where the two pieces of the skirt sec­tion meet for a neat fin­ish. Now ma­chine stitch the pinned pieces – the sides, and where the bodice piece and skirt sec­tion meet.

3 Find the mid­dle of the du­vet cover and mark with a pin. Place the dress in po­si­tion on the du­vet cover, but not too high, as it could be un­com­fort­able.

4 Re­move the pa­per from the ap­pliqué pa­per and iron the dress onto the du­vet cover. Now stitch the dress down all around ex­cept for the lower edge of the skirt sec­tion, mak­ing sure you do not stitch through both lay­ers of the du­vet cover, but only the top layer.

5 Gather the lace to fit the lower edge of the skirt sec­tion and pin to the in­side of the lower edge. Pin the pompom strip on the out­side of the skirt sec­tion close to the edge. Now stitch through all the lay­ers, but not to the du­vet cover.

6 Now make the tulle tutu, which will form part of the dress. Gather two lay­ers to­gether at a time, stitch­ing two straight rows of gath­er­ing stitches along the top edge of two tulle strips. Do not se­cure the be­gin­ning and end of the stitch­ing. Pull in the two top threads of the two rows to cre­ate frills and dis­trib­ute the tulle with your fin­gers to help with the gath­er­ing in. Tie the threads on both sides se­curely so that the gath­er­ing threads can­not loosen. Re­peat with the other lay­ers.

7 In­sert the two peach tulle frills un­der­neath the skirt sec­tion of the dress and pin down. Stitch the top edge of the tulle straight across the du­vet cover, lift­ing up the skirt sec­tion so that it stays free. Now place the light pink tulle frill on top of the peach tulle up to and against the top piece. Pin and stitch straight across, with the skirt sec­tion still un­stitched.

8 For the bal­let shoes: be care­ful not to burn the mesh with the iron – cover with a piece of cloth when you iron. Iron the ap­pliqué pa­per to the mesh, re­move the pa­per and iron the shoes in place in the mid­dle of the du­vet cover. Stitch with a match­ing coloured thread around the out­line of the shoes through the top layer of the du­vet cover.

9 Ar­range the rib­bon in a zigzag pat­tern above the shoes as if to wind it around the bal­le­rina’s an­kles. Pin down here and there and stitch in place. At both ends, tie the loose ends of the rib­bon in a bow with a dou­ble knot as in the photo.

10 For the pil­low­case use the tem­plate on page 79 and draw the crown with a fab­ric pen­cil onto the mid­dle of the pil­low­case. Stitch the crown mo­tif on the pil­low­case in top stitch­ing with pink thread or the colour of your choice.

Princess dress

This gor­geous tutu with its mul­ti­coloured skirt is sure to be your lit­tle girl’s favourite party out­fit.

Size: bodice fits a two-year-old child Dif­fi­culty: av­er­age Time: two days

To cut

Mea­sure the girl’s waist and cut elas­tic ac­cord­ing to her mea­sure­ment, plus 2cm ex­tra. Cut ap­prox­i­mately 20 strips of tulle each 16 x 60cm in each colour. Cut the fol­low­ing pieces for the bodice, straps and frills: one bodice piece rec­tan­gle of 38 x 15cm, four straps of 55 x 6,5cm each, two frills with a length of 35cm and a half cir­cle outer edge.

To make

1 Over­lap the ends of the elas­tic by 2cm and stitch to­gether with a few rows of stitch­ing. Pull the elas­tic over a shape the same size as the elas­tic – use a bucket or large jar. This way it will be eas­ier to tie the tulle to the elas­tic.

2 Take two lay­ers of tulle at a time, place over the elas­tic and move along un­til the elas­tic lies half­way into the tulle strip. Tie a loose knot (so that the tulle can be moved easily), then tie another knot in the op­po­site di­rec­tion. The sec­ond knot can be tighter. Re­peat with all the tulle strips, mak­ing sure you do not place the same colours next to one another. You may have to cut more tulle strips to com­plete the tutu, but that de­pends on the size of the girl’s waist.

3 Fold the bodice piece rec­tan­gle in half and press the fold flat.

4 Stitch two straight rows of gath­er­ing stitches along the straight top edge of the frill strips, ap­prox­i­mately 4mm in from the edge. Do not se­cure the be­gin­ning and end of the stitch­ing. Pull in the two top threads of the two rows to cre­ate frills. You can de­cide how long you want the frills to be. Over­lock both edges of the frills. Fold the half cir­cle outer edge 6mm over to the wrong side, press flat and top stitch.

5 For the straps, fold one long side of each 5mm over to the wrong side. Press flat. The folded sides will be on the in­side of the bodice piece. Place the two folded sides of two straps to­gether. In­sert the dou­ble folded bodice piece rec­tan­gle up to 5mm be­tween the lay­ers so that the lower edges of the straps align and the bodice fold is at the top. Now stitch the long folded sides of the strap from bot­tom to top, stitch­ing the bodice piece at the same time. Re­peat with the sec­ond strap on the other side of the bodice piece rec­tan­gle.

6 Place the gath­ered edge of the frill to one un­stitched outer edge of the strap with the right sides fac­ing and pin down – the lower end of the frill must align with the folded top edge of the bodice piece. Stitch a few mil­lime­tres from the edge. Re­peat for the other strap.

7 Now over­lock the en­tire outer edge from bot­tom to top. Also over­lock the width of the loose ends of the straps, as well as the lower edge where the straps and bodice piece were stitched down.

8 Fold the two long outer edges and the short edge of the loose strap end 5mm to the in­side, so that the gath­ered edge of the frill is sand­wiched be­tween the two long outer edges of the strap and the frill faces out­wards. Stitch the en­tire length and short end of the strap. Re­peat for the other strap.

9 Fold over the lower edge of the top piece by 5mm, press flat and stitch down. Place the bodice piece in the mid­dle of the tutu and pin down. Sew the bodice to the tutu neatly by hand.

10 Mark the po­si­tion of the but­tons for the straps at the back of the dress and sew on the but­tons. Put on the dress and mark the po­si­tions for the but­ton­holes on the loose ends of the two straps when crossed at the back, to ob­tain the cor­rect length for the straps. Trim the straps if nec­es­sary. Make the two but­ton­holes, cross the straps at the back and but­ton down.

Smocked cur­tain

Smock­ing may be an un­usual win­dow treat­ment but here it pulls the look of the whole room to­gether.

To cal­cu­late the fab­ric

Mea­sure your win­dow, cur­tain rod and height from rod to floor to cal­cu­late the amount of fab­ric you re­quire. A stan­dard cur­tain drop is 230cm long, al­low an ex­tra 20cm for the hem and header; if you re­quire longer cur­tains cal­cu­late the amount re­quired per drop for the length. You will lose ap­prox­i­mately half of the width of fab­ric for the smock­ing tech­nique. Cot­ton voile is avail­able in sev­eral widths, choose the width ac­cord­ingly; oth­er­wise you will have to make more drops to fit your win­dow. For the cur­tains fea­tured in the photo, fab­ric with a 280cm width was used; the width of the fab­ric was used to cre­ate the length of the cur­tain, and 350cm was used per drop to cre­ate the width of the cur­tain, to give a 160cm fin­ished width af­ter smock­ing.

To make To smock

It is a good idea to make a small prac­tice sam­ple of the smock­ing tech­nique be­fore you be­gin, so you can de­ter­mine how to cre­ate the folds neatly at each dot and also how much thread must

hang on the wrong side of the fab­ric be­fore the next stitch is to be worked.

1 Make a pa­per pat­tern for the smock de­sign on dressmaker’s met­ric graph pa­per – it is ideal as the grid is worked in 1cm squares.

2 Start with the top row of the grid. Us­ing the pen­cil work a se­ries of dots 3cm apart across the graph pa­per. The dots of the sec­ond row are placed in the same po­si­tion 3cm down from the first row. Con­tinue plot­ting dots un­til all six rows have been drafted. This will be the tem­plate for your smock­ing. When stitched it will form a diamond pat­tern.

3 Lay the fab­ric on a flat sur­face. Place the pa­per tem­plate un­der the fab­ric ap­prox­i­mately 25cm from the top edge and ap­prox­i­mately 10cm from the right­hand sel­vage. Use the dressmaker’s graph pa­per to make sure the fab­ric and the grid align. With the ad­he­sive tape se­cure the pa­per tem­plate and the fab­ric from slip­ping.

4 Start­ing at the right-hand edge, us­ing the dressmaker’s pen or pen­cil, trace the dots di­rectly onto the fab­ric, un­til all the dots are plot­ted. Move the pa­per tem­plate and con­tinue plot­ting the next sec­tion of the grid. Con­tinue in this way un­til you have com­pleted the width of fab­ric. Stop the grid 10cm from the left­hand sel­vage.

5 Thread the em­broi­dery nee­dle with match­ing coloured sewing thread. Se­cure the thread at the back of the work at the first dot in the first row; make a small stitch and bring the nee­dle out at the back of the work. In­sert the nee­dle into the sec­ond dot on the first row and pull nee­dle and thread through. Gen­tly pull the fab­ric from the nee­dle to the first dot so it gath­ers the fab­ric and forms neat folds. Catch the folds of the fab­ric with two or three small straight stitches on top of the first stitch worked on the first dot. The first smocked stitch has just been made.

6 Now bring the nee­dle through to the back of the fab­ric leav­ing a loose thread, bring the nee­dle to the front of the fab­ric at the next dot in the row be­low, this will be the sec­ond dot in the sec­ond row. Make a small stitch and bring the nee­dle out at the back of work. In­sert the nee­dle into the next dot in the sec­ond row, this will be the third dot, and pull nee­dle and thread through. Gen­tly pull the fab­ric from the nee­dle to the dot as be­fore. Catch the folds of the fab­ric with two or three small straight stitches as be­fore. The sec­ond smocked stitch has been made.

7 Now bring the nee­dle through to the back of the fab­ric leav­ing a loose thread, bring the nee­dle to the front of the fab­ric at the next dot in the row above, this will be the third dot on the first row. Make a small stitch; work the next stitch as given in step 5. The third stitch has been smocked. Now work in the dot be­low, this will be the fourth dot in sec­ond row, and make the fourth stitch as given in step 6. Re­peat these two steps. Don’t pull the thread at the back of the work too tightly when bring­ing it to the next stitch to be worked. When you need new thread make sure the stitches are se­cure be­fore you cut away the end of the thread.

8 When the first and sec­ond rows of dots are com­pleted across the width of the fab­ric, start work­ing the next two rows in the same way. A diamond pat­tern will start to form. Work the fifth and sixth rows in the same way. The smock­ing is now com­pleted. Re­peat these steps for the sec­ond drop.

To make the cur­tain

1 Over­lock the raw edges of the cur­tain. Fold a 1cm dou­ble hem along the side edges, press and stitch in place. Fold a 5cm dou­ble hem along the lower edge and stitch in place.

2 Place the top of the cur­tain on a flat sur­face. There will be a lot of ex­cess fab­ric above the smock­ing. Care­fully work the fab­ric into loose folds with your hands, fol­low­ing the folds in the ac­tual smock­ing. Pin and tack these rough pleats in place un­til the width of the cur­tain has been com­pleted. Se­cure these pleats by work­ing a row of ma­chine stitch­ing along the top edge. Re­move the pins and tack­ing stitches.

3 Fold a nar­row hem along the top edge. Place the header tape about 2,5cm from the top edge. Sew the tape in po­si­tion along both sides work­ing the stitch­ing close to the tape edge. Fold the fab­ric over to form a hem with the header tape sit­ting in the cen­tre back width of hem. Ma­chine stitch the hem in place. Re­peat these steps for the sec­ond drop.

Model: Han­nah Arn­hard.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from South Africa

© PressReader. All rights reserved.