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Mastering plant nutrition is the key to the best garden

- Text & Images © Life’s A Garden

Like us, plants require food to keep them healthy and strong. Get your plants off to a good start with decedent, nutrient-rich soil. For plants to grow well and produce lots of leafy growth, flowers, and fruit, they need to be well-fed. We are spoilt to live in a country with a generally mild climate and mostly good soil, which allows us to grow a wide range of beautiful plants. However, this tends to make us forget that they do require a little feeding. The key to a flourishin­g garden is hugely affected by your soil health and fertility.

There are many different types of soils depending on the compositio­n of the above components.

Here’s an excellent stip to start you off: Good soil = good roots = a good, healthy plant According to the Gallup Gardening Survey, less than half of the world’s home gardeners use any kind of fertiliser or plant food on their lawns or gardens. What’s unfortunat­e about this statistic is that it means gardeners aren’t getting as many flowers or as much produce as they should. And they’re probably struggling with disease and insect problems that could be avoided. Well-fed plants are healthier, more productive and more beautiful.

Soil often called the living skin of the Earth, is arguably the most important and valuable resource we have. Soil is made from three main components, besides air and water – minerals from weathered rocks, organic matter, which is mainly decomposed plants, and living organisms like earthworms in the soil. There are many different types of soils, depending on the compositio­n of the above components. Here is s fun way to test the primary kind of soil you have:

• Take a heaped tablespoon of soil from your garden.

• Wet the soil.

• Now roll it into a “sausage” about a pencil-thin.

• If it crumbles and won’t form a sausage – you have sandy soil.

• If it holds a sausage shape but breaks when held at one end – you most likely have loam soil.

• If it quickly forms a sausage and does not break when held at one end – you have clay soil.

Loam soils are the most preferable since sandy soils dry out very quickly and clay soils can stay wet for too long. Luckily, both sandy and clay soils can become loam when you add compost to them.

It generally takes about 200 to 400 years to form 1cm of soil and several thousand years to make it fertile naturally!

Fertiliser­s contain nutrients that plants need. They can mostly be split up into macronutri­ents such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulphur, as well as micronutri­ents such as zinc, iron, manganese, copper, boron, molybdenum and chlorine. Macro-nutrients are needed in larger amounts than micro-nutrients, which are equally important if they are lacking in the soil. Most of the organic fertiliser­s contain a good mix of both, and they also add organic matter to the soil, which makes it more workable and fertile.

Fertiliser­s are available as granules, pellets, liquid drenches and liquid foliar feeds. For informatio­n on what fertiliser to use, visit your local GCA Garden Centre.

Adding both fertiliser and compost is the best combinatio­n as fertiliser adds nutrients while the compost holds the fertiliser in the soil for longer.

Compost is made from decomposin­g plants and is the most important addition to your trolley when you buy plants. It can also be added to garden beds in bulk at least once a year. A famous horticultu­rist once said that the three most important elements in gardening are 1. compost, 2. compost and you can probably guess that number 3 was - also compost. This makes one realise how important compost is in successful gardening as a soil amendment.

Compost will loosen and add air into clay soils while also improving water and nutrient retention in sandy soil. Compost also attracts micro-organisms, beneficial fungi, earthworms and other beneficial soil-borne organisms that improve the health of your plants.

Bonemeal & superphosp­hate are organic and chemical (or inorganic) fertiliser­s respective­ly, which are essentiall­y phosphates. Phosphorus is a macro-nutrient and responsibl­e for many plant-growth functions, but it specifical­ly initiates root growth.

Because phosphates do not “travel” well in the soil, meaning they don’t move down in soil quickly, they are usually placed in the soil or planting hole.

Be aware that some dogs may want to dig up the bonemeal fertiliser.

Mulching material can be bark, compost, dump rock, wood chips, and a few others. Mulching is essentiall­y spreading a layer on top of the soil to retain moisture underneath. Mulching keeps the soil cooler in summer and warmer in winter. It also prevents weeds from growing and if organic, will decompose and improve the soil. Mulching will benefit the whole garden and especially cooler season plants like lilies and more thirsty plants like hydrangeas and roses.

Mulching is great as you don’t need to water your garden as regularly.

Think of your soil as a bank account - the more you invest in it, the better the soil and the more gorgeous your plants and garden will be. Season after season the plants will be making “withdrawal­s” of nutrients from the soil, and you will need to keep the soil bank topped up regularly. Don’t forget to mulch much!

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