The Shirt Makes the Man
The days when a corporate position required a man to wear a suit have long gone, with modern corporates even shunning the idea of a tie sans jacket. This is not necessarily a bad thing, as many sartorially savvy men also appreciate the opportunity to express their personality through clothes. But it often leaves a lot of room for interpretation for what is acceptable – or passable, at the very least – when it comes to work attire.
Fashion houses have cashed in on the trend of relaxed dress codes – as proven by simply considering the vast number of denims on offer. Where a pair of jeans used to be the domain of non-work or manual-labour wardrobes, it’s become one of the corporate wardrobe’s staples, with many brands offering a sleeker, toned down, more stylish version. Similarly, shoe brands have cottoned on, and men now have as wide a selection of shoe styles and colours to choose from as women. Ties are considered accessories more than ever before, and many men keep one or two blazers close by, just in case they do run into a situation where one is required.
In the olden days, the quality and cut of his suit, or the shininess of his shoes, was what a man was judged upon. Today, the way in which a man can make an impression is through his choice of shirt. However, the shirt is the one piece of clothing that is still stuck in fashion purgatory, because so few men really know what shirt to wear for what occasion. And it’s an important distinction, because shirts are generally designed for specific types of occasions and, in the absence of a suit and tie, can make or break a man. First impressions really do matter.
In some instances, a modern T-shirt worn with a blazer is perfectly acceptable, as well as a golf shirt. But when it comes to a buttondown shirt with a collar, it’s crucial to get it right. If your life is lived in a generally casual environment where there is no expectation to look professional, you are fortunate – buying your shirts will probably be as easy as buying socks. But if you do, on occasion, need to “dress up” because a situation requires a more clean-cut, professional image, you will need to rethink your approach, because a dress shirt is not just any old shirt. But while there are a lot of details to get right, it’s easier than you think because only two things really matter: the collar and the fit. And it is well worth investing in a proper dress shirt, if only one.
In general, the point collar remains the most popular style and is found on 90% of all men’s dress shirts. The style has its roots in the military uniforms of the late 20th century and owes its popularity to the fact that it’s a neutral style that works for the majority of wearers. The collar is cut so that the points are reasonably close together, in some instances hiding the top portion of the tie.
Naturally there are countless variations, with each variation designed to complement the wearer’s face. As such, the point collar is most suited to men with a rounder face or a short neck, as the collar’s styling and vertical slant has an elongating effect that evens out the look of a round face and adds definition. If you have a longer neck, or a thin or angular face, the point collar would not be ideal, as it would probably make you look even leaner – rather go for a more swept collar to soften the hard edges and balance things out.
If your face is neither excessively round nor extraordinarily angular, look for a classic collar – similar in concept to the point collar, with a medium height that works for just about everyone. Also known as the semi-spread, it’s not too fashion-forward and not too conservative, and it works with every kind of suit and every kind of tie.
The shape and size of the collar is, however, less important than wearing the right size shirt. Know your measurements in inches and in centimetres. If you don’t, ask the shop assistant to assist you in measuring your neck size and arm length. When it comes to the collar, use the “one-finger rule”: One finger must comfortably fit between the collar and your neck. When unbuttoned, the cuffs should reach just past your wrists.
Last, but by no means least, you should always buy fitted dress shirts. These shirts feature a slightly more tailored design that allows it to follow the contours of your body more closely. Yes, you may be carrying a little extra weight around that you want to hide. Yes, you want your shirt to fit a little more loosely around your body in order to be more comfortable. But keep in mind that wearing a shirt that is too big for you doesn’t achieve your goal. Billowy folds don’t disguise, they only amplify. Fitted shirts have the added benefit that the sleeves are usually also a little bit narrower, which eliminates that billowy look that makes you look like you’re wearing a blouse. And no man wants to look like he’s wearing a blouse.
A classic, well-made white dress shirt is something every man should have in his wardrobe. Experiment with other colours, depending on your mood and personality, and don’t forget that it’s the detail that often makes a shirt stand out, whether it’s a fine pattern, or a textured or woven fabric. Wear it with jeans and a blazer, and you’ll cut a sleek and professional image that’s utterly timeless and bound to make a lasting impression.