Sowetan

Fish-farming trade goes global

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THAT smoked salmon you bought for the festive season has a story to tell.

The salmon may have been raised in Scotland – but it probably began life as roe in Norway.

Harvested at a coastal farm, the fish may have been sent to Poland to be smoked.

It may even have travelled halfway around the world to China to be sliced. It eventually arrived, wrapped in that tempting package, in your supermarke­t.

Globalisat­ion has changed the world in many ways, but fish farming is one of the starkest examples of its benefits and hidden costs.

The nexus of the world fish-farming trade is China – the biggest exporter of fish products, the biggest producer of farmed fish and a major importer as well.

With battalions of lowcost workers, linked to markets by a network of oceangoing refrigerat­ed ships, China is the go-to place for labour-intensive fish processing.

In just a few clicks on Alibaba, the Chinese online trading hub, you can buy three tonnes of Norwegian filleted mackerel shipped from the port city of Qingdao for delivery within 45 days.

“There is a significan­t amount of bulk frozen fish sent to China just for filleting,” said a source from an associatio­n of importers in an EU country.

“The temperatur­e of the fish is brought up to enable the filleting but the fish are not completely defrosted.”

The practice has helped transform the Chinese coastal provinces of Liaoning and Shandong into global centres for fish processing.

But globalised fish farming leaves a mighty carbon footprint and has other impacts, many of which are unseen for the consumer.

Don Staniford, an activist and director of the Global Alliance Against Industrial Aquacultur­e, called the fish industry’s production and transporta­tion chain “madness”.

“The iconic image of Scottish salmon has gone. The Scottish salmon farming industry is dominated, 60-70%, by Norwegian companies. Consumers don’t realise that cheap supermarke­t salmon comes with a huge social and environmen­t cost,” he said.

According to Allied Market Research, the global aquacultur­e market will be worth $242-billion in 2022, compared to $169-billion in 2015.

The Organisati­on for Economic Cooperatio­n and Developmen­t and the World Bank go further and say that by 2030 two-thirds of the seafood on people’s plates will come from aquacultur­e farms. –

 ?? PHOTO: CARLOS BARRIA/REUTERS ?? Farmed salmon lie in a pile as a Chilean worker waits to process them, in a plant in the Pacific port of Chacabuco.
PHOTO: CARLOS BARRIA/REUTERS Farmed salmon lie in a pile as a Chilean worker waits to process them, in a plant in the Pacific port of Chacabuco.

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