THE ROAD TO HEL
Until the road opened in the ’60s, the only way into the Karoo hideaway of Gamkaskloof was by foot, donkey or the doctor’s Tiger Moth. Claire Keeton took the pass into Die Hel. Pictures by Marianne Schwankhart
T HE road to Die Hel is not paved. It’s a steep, gravel road with sharp bends — about 55km take two to three hours by car. The turn onto the Otto du Plessis Road to this isolated valley is near the top of the 1 585m Swartberg Pass. Die Hel is about 90km from Oudtshoorn and about 60km from Prince Albert.
Driving this road, particularly in sleet and rain in a city car, was as demanding as a mountain-biking trail. We were advised not to tackle the road in anything but a 4x4 and were warned that, if we got stuck or damaged the vehicle, we could not call for rescue — there’s no cellphone signal, except at one point. Knowing we had sleeping bags and food, we took a chance.
Marianne stuck to the slippery dirt and avoided getting too close to the sheer side of the pass — from where you get views over Gamkaskloof. We made it into the narrow valley before dark only to discover we couldn’t cross the fast-flowing Gamka River.
The manager of Boplaas cottage fetched us in a bakkie and, 48 hours later, we picked up the rental car. On our way out, one of our tyres got torn up by the rocks.
In summer, Die Hel has an influx of day visitors and getting there is half the fun. Cape Nature lists “the spectacular two-hour drive into Die Hel” as one of five highlights in the Swartberg Nature Reserve. The others are: “Towering aloes; the 6km Grootkloof circular hiking trail; interpretation signage explaining the history of the area; and making a fire under the star-filled Karoo sky”.
ON THE ROAD
Ouplaas, the oldest house in the valley, is a landmark on the road that carves through the elongated valley. Gamkaskloof is about 20km long and roughly half a kilometre wide. “Gamka” is the Khoisan word for lion. Cape Nature Conservation has its headquarters and an information centre in the restored farmhouse at Ouplaas, which is also home to friendly staff Martin and Elmaree Botha.
Declared a “cultural-historic” site, most of the Gamkaskloof falls under the Swartberg Nature Reserve, itself a World Heritage Site for its ecological and archaeological significance. Stone tools dating back to the early stone age as well as relics from the middle and late stone age have been found here, and there is San art in the caves and overhangs — we saw faded paintings near the beginning of a hike — to remind visitors of the kloof’s early explorers. Gamkaskloof was most recently settled in the 1830s by Afrikaner families such as the Cordiers and Nels and its population grew to more than 100 people by the 1960s.
AFTER THE ROAD
After the road was built and the valley opened up to inkommers , most families left the kloof, particularly following a drought.
The last farmer to sell to Cape Nature in 1991 was Piet Swanepoel — the first land registered in 1841 (Ouplaas) belonged to a Petrus Swanepoel.
The population dwindled to less than a 10th of its former size and now there are just 10 or 20 permanent residents. Annetjie Joubert (born Mostert) at Fonteinplaas is the sole original Gamkaskloofer, born in this valley, but she was away when we visited. Her family runs the farm store and Oude Klowers Plaaskombuis — the only place to eat out in Die Hel. You go for the experience more than the food and must book ahead. The restaurant is in an old house with stray mannequins, bird cages — all empty except for one occupied by a parrot — and a porch with a flowering garden and pool.
But Die Hel also attracts newcomers. Donald du Toit moved here a few years ago to manage Boplaas farm and is solidly settled in one of the restored flat-roofed cottages next to a stream.
THE END OF THE ROAD
Boplaas farm at the end of the road, the western end of the kloof, is privately owned and closed to day trippers. Like the rest of Die Hel, it has streams and San art. Before sundown one day we hiked up a mountain stream — with pools for swimming and fishing — and my son Zade diligently marked the route with cairns, convinced I wouldn’t find our way back. Despite my flawed sense of direction, I can find my way downriver.
On another morning, Donald gave us a lift through to the farthest corner of Boplaas, where we met one of the owners of the Boplaas guest cottages, the hospitable Roelof van Huyssteen and his wife Rykie. He and two other specialist doctors from Cape Town and one engineer own the farm, and visit as often as once a month. They offered us coffee and rusks and a swim in their pool.
They have restored the stone cottage where they live and expanded their patio under an Australian pepper tree. They have a deck and outdoor shower higher up, where they sleep under the stars, even though leopards roam the area.
STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN — HIKING THE LADDER
From their cottage, we walked across a river to reach The Ladder, the oldest established hiking path in Die Hel. This steep and rocky trail was the prime access for traders and livestock inspectors until the road came. We walked up the path, wondering at the effort it must have taken for babies, children and supplies to be brought in and out to the kloof on it. It is a strenuous hike and it was half an hour before the path levelled out on easier terrain.
Zade and I turned back at this point but Marianne kept going to the storage hut foundations at the top, now marked by a bench and picnic spot.
This is a good hike but more energetic than the more accessible and central 1.5km Koningsgat Trail or 6km Grootkloof Trail marked out by Cape Nature. The kloof has flowering plants all year round and is known for its aloes. Sunbirds and sugarbirds are common and we saw dassies, buck and baboons in the valley.
OOM PIET’S COTTAGE AND HISTORIC DWELLINGS
We spent two nights at a simple selfcatering cottage, which used to belong to Oom Piet. There are three bedrooms and inside and outdoor bathrooms with gas heaters. We braaied at night under sprawling trees. There is also a huge garden and a small dam, which was warm enough to swim in at sunset.
Boplaas has three more cottages for visitors and one of the prettiest campsites we’ve seen with five sites — ideal for a group of friends. Cape Nature rents out 11 restored cottages, a bush camp and has 10 campsites with ablutions.
If you’re wanting to escape the 21st century then Die Hel, with no cellphone signal and few phone lines, is the place to go. But be aware that, at peak times, including Easter and other school holidays, it is likely to be full.