GLITZ PATROL
Durban designer takes her label into the stratosphere, writes Shanthini Naidoo
ZAMA Mathe’s first sewing machine was a Celebrity. Perhaps this was a foretelling, given that the selftaught clothing designer from Durban now creates fashion for stars and the generally glamorous.
A commerce student who grew up in rural Nongoma, Mathe ventured into the unglamorous world of banking straight out of university. Then she started making her own clothing as a hobby. People noticed, and soon she was sewing for colleagues, friends and neighbours. She resigned from her office job and started a home business.
Ten years on, Mathe, 34, has opened her first studio in Glenwood with a staff of five. She has no formal training in cutting, pattern-making or design, but has established herself as a producer of classic couture.
“It always surprises people that I have no design training. I consider it my gift. I started off creating clothes freehand, without using measurements, not even using a sewing machine. It happened naturally, somehow, that the clothes had good lines and fitted well,” she says.
Her label, fast becoming recognised in the industry, is called Zarth. The name may sound like it has origins in outer space, but it is a sort of anagram of her name, Zama Ruth Mathe. Zarth is known for whimsical designs, flowing lines and indulgent fabrics.
Mathe keeps her client list close to her chest, but says they include a few “[SA] royals, people in government, some in the television and music industry”.
Earlier this year, David Tlale selected her to show her designs at his Fashion Extravaganza at the Durban Botanical Gardens.
As we spoke, Mathe was preparing for one of the biggest fashion events in Durban, the Vodacom July and the preview fashion show. She sits on the KwaZuluNatal Fashion Council and had judged young designers at the event the previous day.
“To be asked to be a judge makes me feel that people have confidence in me. But the fashion industry is forever a learning experience. I am still learning. This business is all about hard work and more hard work,” she says.
For this year’s July (the theme was “Posh. Oh my gosh!”), she was asked to create a design around the brand of the KISS party shooter. Her interpretation was a cocktail dress with ruffles and lace, which is one of her favourite fabrics.
Far from her own relaxed, comfortable dress sense, many of her designs are sheer and daring. “I am inspired by oldfashioned glamour but I try to keep my designs current and classy. I love nudes and blacks; understated animal prints. I like soft, flowing fabrics, sometimes see-through, laces, embroidered fabric which I match up with clean lines in the design. I always try for
timeless elegance.”